How-to Guides                                                   

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

 of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.

In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the 

 of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.

Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.

This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.

 You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.

Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.

These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.

Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).

PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More

These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 

 Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.

Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.

 Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.





The motherboard is the central nervous system of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.


In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the essential parts of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.



Form Factor – The First Thing to Know

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.





Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.



CPU Socket – The Master Mind





This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.





Intel: LGA 1851, LGA 1700, etc. (pins are on the motherboard)



AMD: AM4, AM5 (pins are on the CPU)

Beware: You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.
Tips: Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.



RAM Slots – Memory Matters





These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.





Labeled as DIMM1, DIMM2, etc.



Usually 2 or 4 slots depending on board size



Only supports DDR4 or DDR5 (not both!)

Tips: Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).



PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More





These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 



Tips: Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.



M.2 and SATA – Storage Interfaces





Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.



M.2 Slots (for NVMe or SATA SSDs):





Typically located between PCIe slots



Look for labels like M.2_1, M.2_2



May need to remove a heatsink

SATA Ports (for 2.5" SSDs, HDDs):





Usually 4–6 L-shaped connectors on the edge

Tips: Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.



What's Next?

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.

Part 1 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 1): CPU, RAM, and Expansion Slots Explained

If you’ve ever shopped for a power supply unit (PSU), you’ve probably seen bold numbers like 650W, 750W, or even 1250W slapped across the box. But here’s a hard truth — not all wattages are created equal.

In this post, we’ll dive into some critical things to check — especially the 12V rail, where most of your system’s power actually goes — and expose how some budget PSU brands overpromise and underdeliver.

Now let’s level up and talk about fine print specs that can make or break your build.

1. Don’t Trust the “Wattage” at Face Value

That big number on the box (e.g. 750W) often refers to the total peak wattage, not continuous wattage. But what really matters is how much power the PSU can reliably deliver on the 12V rail — the rail responsible for powering your CPU, GPU, and other high-draw components.

A cheap “500W” PSU might only provide 360W on the 12V rail, with the rest split between 3.3V and 5V (which modern systems barely use). That’s not enough for a gaming PC with a modern GPU.

2. Always Check the PSU Label (or Official Spec Sheet)

Flip the PSU or check the official website for the detailed rail breakdown, especially the +12V rail rating. A good-quality 650W PSU should provide at least 90% of its rated wattage on the 12V rail (e.g. around 600–630W on +12V).

✅ Good sign: High amperage and wattage on +12V rail

🚫 Red flag: If +12V wattage is much lower than total PSU wattage

3. Look for Independent Testing (Optional but Powerful)

While not every user will do this, some PSU reviewers (like JonnyGURU, TechPowerUp, or Aris from Cybenetics) conduct in-depth testing and even cross-check rail performance under load. Check their reviews if you're buying from lesser-known brands.

4. Single vs Multi +12V Rails: What’s Better?

Most gamers and users are fine with single-rail designs, as long as they come from reputable brands.

5. Beware of Fake 80+ Badges and No-Name PSUs

Some budget brands fake 80+ logos or show specs that don’t match real performance. Unless it's certified by Plug Load Solutions or Cybenetics, take it with a grain of salt.

Your PSU might be the least flashy component, but it’s the lifeline of your entire system. Make sure you're not being misled by flashy numbers — always read the label, check the +12V rail, and when in doubt, go with a reputable brand.





If you’ve ever shopped for a power supply unit (PSU), you’ve probably seen bold numbers like 650W, 750W, or even 1250W slapped across the box. But here’s a hard truth — not all wattages are created equal.

In this post, we’ll dive into some critical things to check — especially the 12V rail, where most of your system’s power actually goes — and expose how some budget PSU brands overpromise and underdeliver.



Recap: What We've Covered Before

In our previous articles about basic PSU knowledges and ATX 3.1, we explored:





The importance of 80 PLUS and Cybenetics certifications



A introduction about ATX 3.1 standard



Using a PSU wattage calculator



The difference between ATX, SFX, and other PSU form factors

Now let’s level up and talk about fine print specs that can make or break your build.



1. Don’t Trust the “Wattage” at Face Value







That big number on the box (e.g. 750W) often refers to the total peak wattage, not continuous wattage. But what really matters is how much power the PSU can reliably deliver on the 12V rail — the rail responsible for powering your CPU, GPU, and other high-draw components.

Example:
A cheap “500W” PSU might only provide 360W on the 12V rail, with the rest split between 3.3V and 5V (which modern systems barely use). That’s not enough for a gaming PC with a modern GPU.



2. Always Check the PSU Label (or Official Spec Sheet)

Flip the PSU or check the official website for the detailed rail breakdown, especially the +12V rail rating. A good-quality 650W PSU should provide at least 90% of its rated wattage on the 12V rail (e.g. around 600–630W on +12V).

Look for this format:







✅ Good sign: High amperage and wattage on +12V rail
🚫 Red flag: If +12V wattage is much lower than total PSU wattage



3. Look for Independent Testing (Optional but Powerful)





↑ Cybenetics website

While not every user will do this, some PSU reviewers (like JonnyGURU, TechPowerUp, or Aris from Cybenetics) conduct in-depth testing and even cross-check rail performance under load. Check their reviews if you're buying from lesser-known brands.



4. Single vs Multi +12V Rails: What’s Better?





Single-rail designs are common today and generally easier to work with.



Multi-rail PSUs offer overcurrent protection per rail, but can sometimes lead to power distribution issues if not well documented.

Most gamers and users are fine with single-rail designs, as long as they come from reputable brands.



5. Beware of Fake 80+ Badges and No-Name PSUs







Some budget brands fake 80+ logos or show specs that don’t match real performance. Unless it's certified by Plug Load Solutions or Cybenetics, take it with a grain of salt.

Avoid PSUs with:





No brand or OEM info



Unrealistically high wattage for dirt cheap prices



Lightweight or suspiciously small housings



Final Tips for Safe PSU Shopping











Stick with known brands (darkFlash, Corsair, Seasonic, Super Flower, etc.)



Double-check the 12V rail wattage



Check actual reviews, not just Amazon ratings



Don’t skimp: PSU = the foundation of system stability



Bonus: Tools and Resources





Cybenetics Certification Database



Plug Load Solutions (80 PLUS Verification)



Be quiet PSU Calculator



Closing Thoughts

Your PSU might be the least flashy component, but it’s the lifeline of your entire system. Make sure you're not being misled by flashy numbers — always read the label, check the +12V rail, and when in doubt, go with a reputable brand.

Practical buying advice and red flags consumers often overlook, especially with misleading labeling

What to Beware Before Buying a PSU: Don't Be Fooled by the Wattage!

If your PC suddenly won’t turn on, or it restarts and shuts down randomly while gaming, most people immediately suspect the motherboard or memory. But did you know? The 

 is often the hidden culprit behind these problems!

, so you can avoid wasting money replacing the wrong parts.

If you notice any of the following, your PSU might be to blame:

How to Test if Your Power Supply Is Working

Follow these simple steps to check your PSU with a paperclip test:

The power supply delivers power to all your components. Stable, clean power is crucial not just for CPU and GPU performance, but also for the long-term health of your system.

80 PLUS certification, sufficient wattage, and a long warranty

 is your best defense against gradual damage to your components.

Protect Your System With the darkFlash PMT Series PSU

 or build a high-end system, don’t overlook the PSU.

 — perfect for gamers and creators alike who need reliable, long-term performance.





If your PC suddenly won’t turn on, or it restarts and shuts down randomly while gaming, most people immediately suspect the motherboard or memory. But did you know? The power supply unit (PSU) is often the hidden culprit behind these problems!

In this guide, we’ll show you how to test if your PSU is failing, so you can avoid wasting money replacing the wrong parts.



Common Signs of a Failing PSU

If you notice any of the following, your PSU might be to blame:





Pressing the power button does nothing



Random shutdowns or restarts



Blue screen errors (BSOD) or unexpected reboots



BIOS shows abnormal voltage readings







How to Test if Your Power Supply Is Working

Follow these simple steps to check your PSU with a paperclip test:





Turn off the power supply and unplug it from the wall.



Disconnect all power cables from components, leaving only the 24-pin ATX motherboard connector.



On the 24-pin connector, locate pins 16 and 17.

(Tip: With the latch facing up and the pins facing you, count from the left — pins 4 and 5 from the left are the ones you need.)



Use a paperclip or a piece of wire to short pins 16 and 17.



Turn the PSU back on and see if the fan spins and power comes on.



If the PSU doesn’t power up, it’s likely faulty.







What to Do If Your PSU Is Faulty





Check if your PSU is still under warranty. Many PSUs come with warranties ranging from 5–10 years, depending on price and tier.



If it’s a new unit or still within warranty, contact the manufacturer or your retailer for a repair or replacement.



If it’s out of warranty, it might still work, but replacing it with a new, reliable PSU is highly recommended to keep your system stable.







Why the PSU Is So Important

The power supply delivers power to all your components. Stable, clean power is crucial not just for CPU and GPU performance, but also for the long-term health of your system.
Choosing a PSU with 80 PLUS certification, sufficient wattage, and a long warranty is your best defense against gradual damage to your components.







Protect Your System With the darkFlash PMT Series PSU

If you’re planning to upgrade to an RTX 50-series GPU or build a high-end system, don’t overlook the PSU.


The darkFlash PMT Series power supplies feature the latest ATX 3.1 and PCIe 5.1 standards, 80 PLUS Gold certification — perfect for gamers and creators alike who need reliable, long-term performance.









Learn how to spot the signs of a failing power supply and test it yourself before replacing any parts.

How to Test a Power Supply (PSU) If Your PC Won't Boot

When using the latest ATX 3.1 power supply, the most important thing to be aware of is the 12V 2x6 connector used for GPU power cables. Although this revised connector has significantly reduced the risk of connector burnouts, improper handling can still cause damage. Please pay special attention to the following points:

Connection Status Between Power Cable and GPU Connector

When connecting the GPU, ensure the direction of the cable and GPU connector matches. Also, confirm that the latch is fully engaged and locked in place.

Avoid Bending the Cable Within 35mm of the Connector

Whether installing the GPU horizontally or vertically, you'll likely need to bend the power cable. If the cable is bent too close to the connector, it can cause the plastic sheath near the connector to peel off, potentially leading to short circuits. It is recommended to bend the cable only after at least 35mm of straight length from the connector.

Do Not Force or Repeatedly Bend the Cable

While modern power cables are built to be durable, excessive force or repeated bending can still damage them, increasing the risk of electrical issues.





When using the latest ATX 3.1 power supply, the most important thing to be aware of is the 12V 2x6 connector used for GPU power cables. Although this revised connector has significantly reduced the risk of connector burnouts, improper handling can still cause damage. Please pay special attention to the following points:



Connection Status Between Power Cable and GPU Connector

When connecting the GPU, ensure the direction of the cable and GPU connector matches. Also, confirm that the latch is fully engaged and locked in place.







Avoid Bending the Cable Within 35mm of the Connector

Whether installing the GPU horizontally or vertically, you'll likely need to bend the power cable. If the cable is bent too close to the connector, it can cause the plastic sheath near the connector to peel off, potentially leading to short circuits. It is recommended to bend the cable only after at least 35mm of straight length from the connector.







Do Not Force or Repeatedly Bend the Cable

While modern power cables are built to be durable, excessive force or repeated bending can still damage them, increasing the risk of electrical issues.





When using the latest 12V-2x6 GPU power cable, please pay attention to the following points.

Precautions When Using the Latest ATX 3.1 Power Supply GPU Cables

Build Guides                                                    

Power supplies can be categorized based on cable management into 

 types. These classifications mainly affect cable management convenience, installation flexibility, and overall tidiness inside the PC case.

A full modular power supply allows all cables connecting to the motherboard and other components to be detached. Users can choose which cables to install, making it more flexible for DIY builders and resulting in a cleaner cable management setup.

A semi-modular power supply has some fixed cables that cannot be removed, while others are detachable. This design offers a balance between flexibility and ease of use.

A non-modular power supply has all cables permanently attached, making it the most affordable but least convenient option for cable management.

✔ You prioritize clean and organized cable management.

✔ You frequently upgrade hardware and need flexible installations.

✔ You are on a tight budget and just need a cost-effective option.





Power supplies can be categorized based on cable management into full modular, semi-modular, and non-modular types. These classifications mainly affect cable management convenience, installation flexibility, and overall tidiness inside the PC case.



Full Modular Power Supply

A full modular power supply allows all cables connecting to the motherboard and other components to be detached. Users can choose which cables to install, making it more flexible for DIY builders and resulting in a cleaner cable management setup.







✅ Advantages





Allows installation of only the necessary cables, reducing clutter.



Easy to upgrade or replace cables without changing the entire power supply.



⚠️ Disadvantages





More expensive than semi-modular and non-modular power supplies.



Requires manual cable installation, which may not be beginner-friendly.



Semi-Modular Power Supply

A semi-modular power supply has some fixed cables that cannot be removed, while others are detachable. This design offers a balance between flexibility and ease of use.







✅ Advantages





The 24-pin motherboard and 8-pin CPU power cables are fixed, preventing mistakes during installation.



Reduces unnecessary cables, maintaining a cleaner PC interior.



⚠️ Disadvantages





Fixed power cables may create unnecessary clutter inside the case.



Harder to manage than a full modular PSU but still better than a non-modular one.



Non-Modular (Fixed Cable) Power Supply

A non-modular power supply has all cables permanently attached, making it the most affordable but least convenient option for cable management.







✅ Advantages





No need to install cables separately, simplifying the setup process.



Lower cost, making it a high-value option.



⚠️ Disadvantages





Excess cables can cause clutter, affecting airflow and aesthetics.



Harder to replace; if a cable fails, the entire PSU needs to be replaced.



Typically has lower efficiency ratings and is not ideal for mid-to-high-end hardware.



Which Power Supply Should You Choose?

You should consider a full modular power supply if:

✔ You have a higher budget.

✔ You prioritize clean and organized cable management.

✔ You frequently upgrade hardware and need flexible installations.

✔ You are using high-end components.







A semi-modular or non-modular power supply is sufficient if:

✔ You are on a tight budget and just need a cost-effective option.

✔ You are building an office PC.

✔ You do not need a dedicated GPU.





Power supplies are categorized into three main types based on how their cables are connected. Let’s take a quick look!

Ｗhat are Full Modular, Semi-Modular, and Non-Modular Power Supplies?

As graphics card power consumption continues to increase, Intel has established new power supply standards: ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1. These standards are mainly designed to meet the high power demands of high-end graphics cards ATX 3.1 is an upgrade from ATX 3.0, focusing on improving power stability and safety.

ATX 3.0 is a new power supply standard introduced by Intel in 2022, primarily to accommodate high-wattage graphics cards. It also introduces the PCIe 5.0 12VHPWR power connector. The first graphics card to implement the 12VHPWR connector was the RTX 3090 Ti.

With the launch of the RTX 40 series, flagship graphics cards like the RTX 4090 and RTX 4080 adopted the latest 12VHPWR power connector. However, soon after release, many users reported that the power connector was overheating and even melting, leading consumers and review media to question the reliability of the 12VHPWR connector.

Although NVIDIA stated that the overheating issue was primarily due to users not fully inserting the connector, many gamers still believe it was caused by poor design of the 12VHPWR connector.

↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from 

ATX 3.1 is an improved version of ATX 3.0 introduced by Intel, mainly aimed at addressing the overheating and melting issues caused by the 12VHPWR power cable connector.

Improvement 1 | Power Connector Enhancement

ATX 3.1 improves upon the 12VHPWR power cable connector by adjusting the pin length to ensure a secure connection. This not only improves safety but also prevents damage due to poor contact when inserting or removing the graphics card. Additionally, the connector has been renamed to 12V-2x6.

Improvement 2 | Increased Power Supply Stability and Durability

ATX 3.1 adjusts the power hold-up time requirements. At full load, it only needs to maintain 12ms, but at 80% load, it must still maintain 17ms, improving overall stability.

The connectors for ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 look identical, meaning users cannot distinguish them by appearance alone. Currently, the only way to differentiate them is by checking the product specifications.

darkFlash has launched the PMT series power supply, which adopts the latest ATX 3.1 standard and includes the 12V-2x6 power connector. This ensures stable and safe power delivery of up to 600W while avoiding the melting issues of ATX 3.0 connectors.

For those using RTX 40 and RTX 50 series graphics cards, the PMT series power supply is one of the most reliable choices.

↑PMT power supply 12V-2x6 cable and connector





As graphics card power consumption continues to increase, Intel has established new power supply standards: ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1. These standards are mainly designed to meet the high power demands of high-end graphics cards ATX 3.1 is an upgrade from ATX 3.0, focusing on improving power stability and safety.

 

What is an ATX 3.0 Power Supply?

ATX 3.0 is a new power supply standard introduced by Intel in 2022, primarily to accommodate high-wattage graphics cards. It also introduces the PCIe 5.0 12VHPWR power connector. The first graphics card to implement the 12VHPWR connector was the RTX 3090 Ti.

 

Key Features of ATX 3.0





Supports 12VHPWR power connector (16-pin).



A single cable can deliver up to 600W, suitable for high-end graphics cards.



Replaces multiple 8-pin power cables, reducing cable clutter.



Can handle up to 200% transient power spikes, ensuring system stability.



Controversies Surrounding ATX 3.0

With the launch of the RTX 40 series, flagship graphics cards like the RTX 4090 and RTX 4080 adopted the latest 12VHPWR power connector. However, soon after release, many users reported that the power connector was overheating and even melting, leading consumers and review media to question the reliability of the 12VHPWR connector.

 

Although NVIDIA stated that the overheating issue was primarily due to users not fully inserting the connector, many gamers still believe it was caused by poor design of the 12VHPWR connector.

 



↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from reddit, r/nvidia)

 

The Birth of ATX 3.1

ATX 3.1 is an improved version of ATX 3.0 introduced by Intel, mainly aimed at addressing the overheating and melting issues caused by the 12VHPWR power cable connector.

 

Key Improvements in ATX 3.1

Improvement 1 | Power Connector Enhancement

ATX 3.1 improves upon the 12VHPWR power cable connector by adjusting the pin length to ensure a secure connection. This not only improves safety but also prevents damage due to poor contact when inserting or removing the graphics card. Additionally, the connector has been renamed to 12V-2x6.







Improvement 2 | Increased Power Supply Stability and Durability

ATX 3.1 adjusts the power hold-up time requirements. At full load, it only needs to maintain 12ms, but at 80% load, it must still maintain 17ms, improving overall stability.

 

ATX 3.0 vs. ATX 3.1 Comparison

The connectors for ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 look identical, meaning users cannot distinguish them by appearance alone. Currently, the only way to differentiate them is by checking the product specifications.







Recommended ATX 3.1 Power Supply - PMT Series

darkFlash has launched the PMT series power supply, which adopts the latest ATX 3.1 standard and includes the 12V-2x6 power connector. This ensures stable and safe power delivery of up to 600W while avoiding the melting issues of ATX 3.0 connectors.

 

For those using RTX 40 and RTX 50 series graphics cards, the PMT series power supply is one of the most reliable choices.





↑PMT power supply 12V-2x6 cable and connector

 (Image from forum.gamer.com.tw)

Power supplies have reached a new version—explore the differences after the upgrade!

ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 Power Supply Detailed Introduction

Building a PC can be a big challenge for DIY beginners, but it’s also an incredibly fun and rewarding process. Before starting your build, you need to understand the following key points:

Before planning your PC build, it's essential to define your specific needs. Are you building a PC for gaming, office work, content creation, or streaming?

If you don’t clarify your needs beforehand, you might end up buying incompatible components or wasting money on unnecessary parts.

Step 2: Essential Components for Building a PC

Before building your PC, you need to prepare the following components:

To help choose the right components and avoid compatibility issues, we’ll demonstrate how to use PCPartPicker for selecting and purchasing parts.

Use PCPartPicker’s system to select preferred components and brands. If a specific component is unavailable on the website, it can manually search for it on other platforms.

III. Purchase Components from Your Preferred Store

For example, if buying from Amazon, simply add the selected parts to the cart and proceed with the checkout process.

IV. Purchase From Other Platforms (If needed)

If the selected PC components are out of stock or unavailable on usual shopping websites, alternative suppliers can be found below, or local distributors can be contacted for assistance.

Magnetic Screwdriver or Electric Screwdriver

Using a magnetic screwdriver or an electric screwdriver makes component installation faster and more convenient.

After assembling the components, it's important to manage the cables. Cable ties help keep the wiring neat and organized.

Before installation, carefully read the user manuals of each component. This ensures a smooth installation process and helps prevent damage due to incorrect assembly.

With proper planning and the right tools, even beginners can successfully build a powerful and efficient PC! 





Building a PC can be a big challenge for DIY beginners, but it’s also an incredibly fun and rewarding process. Before starting your build, you need to understand the following key points:



Step 1: Determine Your Usage Needs

Before planning your PC build, it's essential to define your specific needs. Are you building a PC for gaming, office work, content creation, or streaming?



If you don’t clarify your needs beforehand, you might end up buying incompatible components or wasting money on unnecessary parts.







Step 2: Essential Components for Building a PC

Before building your PC, you need to prepare the following components:





CPU (Processor) – Responsible for executing calculations and instructions.



CPU Cooler – Helps dissipate heat from the processor to ensure optimal performance.



Motherboard – Serves as the bridge connecting all PC components.



RAM (Memory) – Temporarily stores data to speed up program execution.



Storage (SSD/HDD) – Stores system files and user data.



Graphics Card (GPU) – Handles graphics processing for gaming, video editing, and rendering tasks.



Power Supply Unit (PSU) – Provides power to all components.



PC Case – Houses all components, offering protection and extending the system’s lifespan.







Step 3: Planning Your PC Build 

(Using the PCPartPicker website as an example)



To help choose the right components and avoid compatibility issues, we’ll demonstrate how to use PCPartPicker for selecting and purchasing parts.



I. Visit the PCPartPicker Website





↑PCPartPicker



II. Select the PC Components

Use PCPartPicker’s system to select preferred components and brands. If a specific component is unavailable on the website, it can manually search for it on other platforms.







III. Purchase Components from Your Preferred Store

For example, if buying from Amazon, simply add the selected parts to the cart and proceed with the checkout process.







IV. Purchase From Other Platforms (If needed)

If the selected PC components are out of stock or unavailable on usual shopping websites, alternative suppliers can be found below, or local distributors can be contacted for assistance.





↑Purchase darkFlash DY470 on newegg



Step 4: Tools Needed for PC Build

Magnetic Screwdriver or Electric Screwdriver

Using a magnetic screwdriver or an electric screwdriver makes component installation faster and more convenient.







Cable Ties and Scissors

After assembling the components, it's important to manage the cables. Cable ties help keep the wiring neat and organized.







Component Manuals

Before installation, carefully read the user manuals of each component. This ensures a smooth installation process and helps prevent damage due to incorrect assembly.







With proper planning and the right tools, even beginners can successfully build a powerful and efficient PC! 

Here're a few things you need to know first.

Build Your Own PC! A Must-Know Guide for DIY Beginners

Hardware Tips                                                   

Aside from the Cybenetics power supply certification, another commonly recognized certification for power supplies is 80 PLUS. Introduced early on, 80 PLUS measures the efficiency of power supplies at 20%, 50%, and 100% load levels to ensure effective power conversion.

| 80 PLUS Certification Levels and Efficiency Ratings |

The 80 PLUS certification consists of six levels, each representing different efficiency standards:

The higher the certification level, the better the power conversion efficiency and lower energy loss.

| How to Calculate Power Conversion Efficiency |

If your computer consumes 600W in total and you want to use a Gold-certified power supply, the calculation would be:

This means you need at least a 750W 80 PLUS Gold-certified power supply.

| Why Choose an 80 PLUS Certified Power Supply? |

⚡ Energy Efficiency: Higher conversion rates mean less energy waste and lower electricity bills.

🔥 Reduced Heat Generation: Better efficiency reduces excess heat, extending component lifespan.

✅ Stable Performance: Higher certification levels ensure consistent power output, benefiting system stability.

| Which 80 PLUS Certification Should You Choose? |

👨‍💻 For Office & Light Gaming Users:

Standard, Bronze, or Silver is sufficient since power demands are relatively low.

Gold or higher is recommended to ensure minimal power loss and stable performance for extended usage.





Aside from the Cybenetics power supply certification, another commonly recognized certification for power supplies is 80 PLUS. Introduced early on, 80 PLUS measures the efficiency of power supplies at 20%, 50%, and 100% load levels to ensure effective power conversion.



| 80 PLUS Certification Levels and Efficiency Ratings |

The 80 PLUS certification consists of six levels, each representing different efficiency standards:



The higher the certification level, the better the power conversion efficiency and lower energy loss.





| How to Calculate Power Conversion Efficiency |

If your computer consumes 600W in total and you want to use a Gold-certified power supply, the calculation would be:



This means you need at least a 750W 80 PLUS Gold-certified power supply.



| Why Choose an 80 PLUS Certified Power Supply? |

⚡ Energy Efficiency: Higher conversion rates mean less energy waste and lower electricity bills.

🔥 Reduced Heat Generation: Better efficiency reduces excess heat, extending component lifespan.

✅ Stable Performance: Higher certification levels ensure consistent power output, benefiting system stability.





| Which 80 PLUS Certification Should You Choose? |

👨‍💻 For Office & Light Gaming Users:

Standard, Bronze, or Silver is sufficient since power demands are relatively low.

🎮 For Gamers & Content Creators:

Gold or higher is recommended to ensure minimal power loss and stable performance for extended usage.





80 PLUS is a certification that evaluates power supply efficiency, categorized into six levels. The higher the certification level, the better the power conversion efficiency, resulting in greater energy savings and environmental benefits.

What Is 80 PLUS Power Supply Certification?

Have you ever been confused about how much wattage your power supply should have when building a DIY PC? This is where a PSU wattage calculator comes in handy. It accurately estimates your components' power consumption and recommends an appropriate power supply to prevent underpowering or wasting electricity.

 OuterVision calculator, brands like Be Quiet, FSP, and Seasonic also offer PSU wattage calculators in both Chinese and English.

 as an example, let's calculate power consumption based on the following configuration:

Step 3: Choose RAM, Storage, and Cooling System

After inputting all the details, click the Calculate button. Based on this setup, the FSP Wattage Calculator estimates the system's power consumption at 650W and recommends a 750W power supply.

| Why Do Different Wattage Calculators Provide Different Results? |

When testing the same configuration on different PSU wattage calculators, the recommended wattage may vary:

Based on these results, it’s recommended to choose a PSU between 850W and 1000W:





Have you ever been confused about how much wattage your power supply should have when building a DIY PC? This is where a PSU wattage calculator comes in handy. It accurately estimates your components' power consumption and recommends an appropriate power supply to prevent underpowering or wasting electricity.



In addition to the previously recommended OuterVision calculator, brands like Be Quiet, FSP, and Seasonic also offer PSU wattage calculators in both Chinese and English.



| How to Use a PSU Wattage Calculator |

Using the FSP Wattage Calculator as an example, let's calculate power consumption based on the following configuration:





CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K



CPU Cooler: 1 water block, 3 fans



RAM: 16GB DDR4 x 2



GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti



Storage: M.2 SSD x 2



Fans: 4 additional case fans



| Step-by-Step Guide |

Step 1: Select Your CPU Model





Choose the brand (e.g., Intel or AMD).



Select the socket type of your processor.



Pick the exact CPU model and indicate if overclocking is enabled.





Step 2: Select Your GPU Model





Choose the GPU brand and model.



Specify the number of GPUs installed.



Indicate whether overclocking is enabled.





Step 3: Choose RAM, Storage, and Cooling System





RAM: Enter the number of memory sticks and type.



Storage: Specify the number of installed storage drives. (M.2 SSDs are often excluded from this calculation.)



Cooling: Enter the number of fans and the size of any liquid cooling system.





Step 4: Calculate and Review the Results

After inputting all the details, click the Calculate button. Based on this setup, the FSP Wattage Calculator estimates the system's power consumption at 650W and recommends a 750W power supply.





| Why Do Different Wattage Calculators Provide Different Results? |

When testing the same configuration on different PSU wattage calculators, the recommended wattage may vary:





FSP Wattage Calculator: Recommends 750W+ PSU



Be Quiet Wattage Calculator: Recommends 1000W PSU



MSI Wattage Calculator: Recommends 850W+ PSU



OuterVision Wattage Calculator: Recommends 750W+ PSU



This discrepancy is normal because different calculators use slightly different formulas for estimation.



How to Choose the Right Wattage?

Based on these results, it’s recommended to choose a PSU between 850W and 1000W:





If you're on a budget, a minimum of 850W should suffice.



If you plan to upgrade your system in the future, opting for a 1000W PSU might be a better investment.





A PC wattage calculator helps determine the required power supply wattage based on your hardware configuration, ensuring you select the right PSU.

Choosing the Right Power Supply: Learn to Use a Wattage Calculator in Just 5 Minutes

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.