Product News                                                    

Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It’s a Showcase

When it comes to building a PC, the case is no longer just a shell to hold your components. It’s the stage where 

 come alive. With the darkFlash Floatron F1, we’ve reimagined what a PC case can be: a stage for your creativity, a platform for your passion, and a centerpiece for your lifestyle.

The Floatron F1 is designed for those who love to show off their builds in style:

Your PC doesn’t just sit under your desk anymore — it becomes a part of your room’s personality.

In the world of speed, air isn’t resistance — it’s power.

That’s why the Floatron F1 is engineered with cooling performance at its core:

This means you can build with confidence, knowing your case is ready for high-performance components.

The Floatron F1 goes beyond function — it’s a showroom for your ideas:

Whether you’re a gamer, a creator, or just someone who values aesthetics, this case gives you the space to express yourself.

Designed for a New Generation of Builders

Unlike traditional cases, the Floatron F1 is built for people who see their PC as part of their lifestyle:

It delivers both style and performance without any compromise.

The darkFlash Floatron F1 isn’t just another PC case — it’s where performance meets design. With its panoramic view, floating glass chamber, and proven cooling power, it transforms your build into a personal exhibition.

If you’ve been looking for a case that reflects your taste, boosts your performance, and makes your setup stand out, the Floatron F1 is here to lead the way.

For more information about Floatron F1 PC Case, 





Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It’s a Showcase

When it comes to building a PC, the case is no longer just a shell to hold your components. It’s the stage where performance and creativity come alive. With the darkFlash Floatron F1, we’ve reimagined what a PC case can be: a stage for your creativity, a platform for your passion, and a centerpiece for your lifestyle.



A Design That Stands Out







The Floatron F1 is designed for those who love to show off their builds in style:





270° Panoramic Glass: Enjoy an uninterrupted view of your system with a pillar-free, wide-angle design.



Floating Glass Chamber: The elevated glass housing creates a unique aesthetic that feels futuristic and elegant.



Tool-Free Side Panels: Both panels feature a quick-release mechanism,  enhances convenience access and upgrades.

Your PC doesn’t just sit under your desk anymore — it becomes a part of your room’s personality.



Built for Cooling and Performance

In the world of speed, air isn’t resistance — it’s power.







That’s why the Floatron F1 is engineered with cooling performance at its core:





Optimized Airflow Path with side and rear mesh panels for maximum heat dissipation.



Proven Cooling Gains: In tests, the F1 lowered GPU temperatures by 5–7°C, giving you a smoother, more stable gaming or creative experience.



Hardware Support:

-GPUs up to 350mm

-CPU coolers up to 200mm

-Radiators up to 360mm

-Power supplies up to 200mm

This means you can build with confidence, knowing your case is ready for high-performance components.



A Space for Creativity







The Floatron F1 goes beyond function — it’s a showroom for your ideas:





Bottom Display Area: Show off your collectibles, figures, or even DIY lighting setups.



Personalized Setup: Perfect for adding a second screen, controller dock, or RGB panel.



Convenient I/O: Side-mounted Type-C and dual USB 3.0 ports keep your connections within easy reach.



Easy Maintenance: Magnetic dust filters make cleaning quick and hassle-free.

Whether you’re a gamer, a creator, or just someone who values aesthetics, this case gives you the space to express yourself.



Designed for a New Generation of Builders







Unlike traditional cases, the Floatron F1 is built for people who see their PC as part of their lifestyle:





Gamers who want immersive builds with personality.



Creators who value design, lighting, and a showcase-worthy desk setup.



Collectors who love blending PC builds with figures, models, or custom art.

It delivers both style and performance without any compromise.



A Showcase, Not Just a Case

The darkFlash Floatron F1 isn’t just another PC case — it’s where performance meets design. With its panoramic view, floating glass chamber, and proven cooling power, it transforms your build into a personal exhibition.



If you’ve been looking for a case that reflects your taste, boosts your performance, and makes your setup stand out, the Floatron F1 is here to lead the way.



Float the Flow. Rule the Road.



For more information about Floatron F1 PC Case, click here.

The darkFlash Floatron F1 is more than a PC case — it’s a showcase. With its 270° panoramic glass, floating base design, and optimized airflow system that lowers GPU temps by up to 7°C, the F1 blends performance with creativity. Perfect for gamers, creators, and collectors, it transforms your setup into a personal exhibition while keeping high-end hardware cool and stable.

Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It's a Showcase

Build Guides                                                    

When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 

 you should always check before making a decision.

By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.





When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 



In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 9 essential specs you should always check before making a decision.



1. Supported Motherboard Sizes





Common form factors include E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX.



If you plan to upgrade in the future, it’s safer to choose a case that supports at least ATX motherboards.







2. Maximum GPU Length





High-end triple-fan GPUs usually range from 310 mm to 360 mm, while dual-fan GPUs are closer to 260 mm.



Always confirm your GPU length and check if HDD cages or front fans might block installation.







3. CPU Cooler Height Clearance





For air coolers, make sure the case supports the required height (commonly 155–170 mm).



With smaller cases, cooler clearance becomes even more critical.





(darkFlash Storm Z4 Pro Mist Tower CPU Cooler, Height: 155 mm)



4. Liquid Cooling Support





Check if the case supports 240 mm, 280 mm, or 360 mm radiators, and where they can be mounted (top, front, or side).



Also consider radiator thickness—some may interfere with RAM clearance.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler, Radiator: 360 mm)



5. Fan Support (Quantity & Size)





Confirm whether the case supports 120 mm and/or 140 mm fans, and the maximum number of fans you can install.



Check if fans are included by default, and whether a fan hub or controller is supported.





(darkFlash DY470 ATX PC Case)



6. Storage Expansion





Look for the number of drive bays available for 3.5" HDDs and 2.5" SSDs.



If you plan on adding more hard drives later, make sure the case has enough slots.







7. PCIe Expansion Slots





Cases with too few slots may prevent you from installing wider GPUs or may restrict airflow.



If you plan on using a vertical GPU mount, check whether the case includes the bracket and PCIe riser support.







8. Front I/O Ports





Most cases include power/reset buttons, audio jacks, and USB ports.



If you frequently use external devices, choose a case with USB 3.0 or Type-C for faster transfers.







9. PSU Shroud Space





Standard PSUs are typically 160 mm to 220 mm long.



Confirm that your case has enough space for the PSU, plus room for cable management.





(darkFlash PMT Series White Edition PSU)



By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.

Check these 9 key specs to make sure your build is future-proof.

9 Key Expansion Specs You Must Check Before Buying a PC Case

How-to Guides                                                   

When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the 

. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.

The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector

The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation





When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the motherboard’s front panel header. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.







PWR LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matters.



The cable will be labeled PLED+ and PLED- or similar.



Align PLED+ with the motherboard’s PWR_LED+ pin, and PLED- with PWR_LED-.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector



PWR_SW (Power Switch)

Function:
The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Simply connect the two-pin PWR SW cable to the PWR_SW pins.



RESET (Reset Switch)

Function:
The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Connect the RESET SW cable to the RESET pins.



HDD LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matter.



The connector is labeled HDD LED+ and HDD LED-.



Align the positive wire (often colored) with HDD_LED+, and the negative (often black or white) with HDD_LED-.



SPEAKER

Function:
The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

Connection:





This connector is usually a 4-pin block from the case speaker.



Match it with the SPEAKER pins on the header.



How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation











Most motherboards print + and - signs next to the LED pins.



Positive wires are usually labeled with a small arrow one the rear side if the connector.



The motherboard manual will have a detailed pinout diagram — always check it if unsure.



Final Tips





Handle with care — These pins are delicate; use minimal force when connecting.



Double-check before powering on — Incorrect polarity for LEDs won’t damage anything but will prevent lights from working.



Consult your motherboard manual for the exact pin layout.

Explaining each of these front panel header pins, what they do, and how to connect them correctly

Understanding Motherboard Front Panel Header Pins and How to Connect Them

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

Hardware Tips                                                   

USB ports are everywhere — on your PC, monitor, gaming gear, and even your case’s front I/O. But not all USB ports are created equal — some are blue, some red, others black or yellow.

These colors aren’t just cosmetic. Each one reveals important details about speed, power, and compatibility. Knowing what they mean can help you unlock your device’s full potential.

Common USB Types: Type-A Is Color-Coded, Type-C Is Not

USB connectors come in many shapes, but the most common is the rectangular 

, often found on PCs, cases, and peripherals. These ports are usually color-coded to indicate their speed and capabilities.

 are rarely color-coded. Instead, they rely on logos (e.g., SS, PD, ⚡) or product specs for identification.

Q1: Why don’t USB Type-C ports have colors?

Type-C ports support many protocols like Thunderbolt, Power Delivery, and DisplayPort. Because of this, they typically aren’t color-coded — look for logos or specs instead.

Not necessarily. Some red ports support USB 3.1 or higher and allow both fast charging and high-speed data transfers. Check your motherboard or device specs.

Q3: Will using the wrong port damage my device?

No, but you may experience slower speeds or no fast charging. It’s best to match your device’s needs with the right port.

Conclusion: Color Isn’t Just for Looks — Ports Matter

When you understand USB color codes, you make smarter choices — whether you’re charging a phone, backing up files, or building a high-performance rig.

Want Smart Front I/O and Modern USB Support?

 — designed with real-world users in mind. Form meets function in every build.





USB ports are everywhere — on your PC, monitor, gaming gear, and even your case’s front I/O. But not all USB ports are created equal — some are blue, some red, others black or yellow.


These colors aren’t just cosmetic. Each one reveals important details about speed, power, and compatibility. Knowing what they mean can help you unlock your device’s full potential.



USB Port Colors and Their Meanings





Common USB Types: Type-A Is Color-Coded, Type-C Is Not

USB connectors come in many shapes, but the most common is the rectangular USB Type-A, often found on PCs, cases, and peripherals. These ports are usually color-coded to indicate their speed and capabilities.


Other types like USB Type-C, Micro-USB, or Mini-USB are rarely color-coded. Instead, they rely on logos (e.g., SS, PD, ⚡) or product specs for identification.







Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Why don’t USB Type-C ports have colors?

Type-C ports support many protocols like Thunderbolt, Power Delivery, and DisplayPort. Because of this, they typically aren’t color-coded — look for logos or specs instead.



Q2: Are red USB ports only for charging?

Not necessarily. Some red ports support USB 3.1 or higher and allow both fast charging and high-speed data transfers. Check your motherboard or device specs.



Q3: Will using the wrong port damage my device?

No, but you may experience slower speeds or no fast charging. It’s best to match your device’s needs with the right port.







How to Choose the Right USB Port





⚫ Black: Mice, keyboards, basic peripherals



🔵 Blue: External drives, USB sticks



🔴 Red: Charging phones or tablets quickly



🟡 Yellow: Charging while PC is off



Conclusion: Color Isn’t Just for Looks — Ports Matter

When you understand USB color codes, you make smarter choices — whether you’re charging a phone, backing up files, or building a high-performance rig.







Want Smart Front I/O and Modern USB Support?

Explore the darkFlash PC case lineup — designed with real-world users in mind. Form meets function in every build.





Decode the hidden functions behind blue, red, yellow, and black ports.

What USB Port Colors Mean — And How to Use Them Right

 of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.

In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the 

 of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.

Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.

This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.

 You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.

Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.

These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.

Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).

PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More

These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 

 Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.

Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.

 Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.





The motherboard is the central nervous system of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.


In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the essential parts of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.



Form Factor – The First Thing to Know

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.





Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.



CPU Socket – The Master Mind





This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.





Intel: LGA 1851, LGA 1700, etc. (pins are on the motherboard)



AMD: AM4, AM5 (pins are on the CPU)

Beware: You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.
Tips: Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.



RAM Slots – Memory Matters





These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.





Labeled as DIMM1, DIMM2, etc.



Usually 2 or 4 slots depending on board size



Only supports DDR4 or DDR5 (not both!)

Tips: Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).



PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More





These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 



Tips: Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.



M.2 and SATA – Storage Interfaces





Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.



M.2 Slots (for NVMe or SATA SSDs):





Typically located between PCIe slots



Look for labels like M.2_1, M.2_2



May need to remove a heatsink

SATA Ports (for 2.5" SSDs, HDDs):





Usually 4–6 L-shaped connectors on the edge

Tips: Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.



What's Next?

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.

Part 1 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 1): CPU, RAM, and Expansion Slots Explained

In recent years, all-white PC builds have become the go-to choice for many gamers looking to create a clean and stylish setup. But questions like 

“Will my white components turn yellow?”

 are common concerns. In this article, we’ll explain why white PCs may yellow over time and how to properly care for them so they stay bright and pristine.

Why Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? Key Causes Explained

White materials aren’t guaranteed to yellow, but they do show signs of aging more noticeably than black ones. The main reasons include:

When your PC is placed in direct sunlight for extended periods, ultraviolet light can trigger photochemical reactions in certain plastics and coatings, gradually causing them to yellow.

Oil, dust, and fine particles in the air can settle on white surfaces over time, making them look dull or dirty yellow.

Long-term heat can accelerate material degradation, especially around areas near exhaust vents where temperatures are higher.

Not all white coatings and plastics are made equal. Different brands and production batches can have varying resistance to aging. Choosing reputable products significantly reduces the chance of yellowing.

How to Maintain Your White PC? 5 Simple Tips to Keep It Looking New

While white builds are at some risk of yellowing, with regular cleaning and proper placement, you can keep your system looking immaculate. Here are some practical tips for gamers:

Place your PC in a cool, shaded area to minimize UV exposure.

Wipe down surfaces at least once a month with a lint-free dry cloth or a lightly dampened one. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners.

Use an air purifier and keep your room tidy to minimize dust and oil particles settling on your PC.

Ensure good airflow around your system to prevent excessive heat buildup that can accelerate aging.

Opt for components with high-quality, durable coatings designed to resist discoloration. For example, 

 is specifically engineered for long-lasting beauty.

Conclusion: White PCs Don’t Have to Yellow — It’s All About the Right Care and Quality

White PC builds don’t inevitably turn yellow quickly — it all depends on the materials and your environment. By choosing reliable products and practicing regular cleaning while avoiding direct sunlight, you can enjoy a bright, white rig for years to come.

If you’re looking for a beautifully designed, durable white case or cooling solution, check out the 

 — helping you build the pure white setup of your dreams!





In recent years, all-white PC builds have become the go-to choice for many gamers looking to create a clean and stylish setup. But questions like “Will my white components turn yellow?” or “How long before they discolor?” are common concerns. In this article, we’ll explain why white PCs may yellow over time and how to properly care for them so they stay bright and pristine.



Why Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? Key Causes Explained

White materials aren’t guaranteed to yellow, but they do show signs of aging more noticeably than black ones. The main reasons include:



UV Exposure

When your PC is placed in direct sunlight for extended periods, ultraviolet light can trigger photochemical reactions in certain plastics and coatings, gradually causing them to yellow.



Air Pollution and Dust

Oil, dust, and fine particles in the air can settle on white surfaces over time, making them look dull or dirty yellow.



High Temperatures

Long-term heat can accelerate material degradation, especially around areas near exhaust vents where temperatures are higher.



Material Quality Differences

Not all white coatings and plastics are made equal. Different brands and production batches can have varying resistance to aging. Choosing reputable products significantly reduces the chance of yellowing.







How to Maintain Your White PC? 5 Simple Tips to Keep It Looking New

While white builds are at some risk of yellowing, with regular cleaning and proper placement, you can keep your system looking immaculate. Here are some practical tips for gamers:



1. Avoid Direct Sunlight

Place your PC in a cool, shaded area to minimize UV exposure.



2. Clean Regularly

Wipe down surfaces at least once a month with a lint-free dry cloth or a lightly dampened one. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners.



3. Keep the Air Clean

Use an air purifier and keep your room tidy to minimize dust and oil particles settling on your PC.



4. Maintain Proper Ventilation

Ensure good airflow around your system to prevent excessive heat buildup that can accelerate aging.



5. Choose Quality Products

Opt for components with high-quality, durable coatings designed to resist discoloration. For example, darkFlash’s all-white series is specifically engineered for long-lasting beauty.





(Case: DRX70 / Cooler: DN360)



Conclusion: White PCs Don’t Have to Yellow — It’s All About the Right Care and Quality

White PC builds don’t inevitably turn yellow quickly — it all depends on the materials and your environment. By choosing reliable products and practicing regular cleaning while avoiding direct sunlight, you can enjoy a bright, white rig for years to come.





(Case: DY470 / Cooler: DN360S / Fans: DM12 Pro)



If you’re looking for a beautifully designed, durable white case or cooling solution, check out the darkFlash white series — helping you build the pure white setup of your dreams!

Why white PCs yellow — and how to keep yours looking brand new.

Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? How to Keep Your White Rig Looking Brand New

Ever notice your PC slowing down when things get hot?

Your game suddenly drops frames, video exports take longer, and your fans sound like a jet engine, yet performance keeps dropping. This isn’t just your PC “getting old”—it’s your system protecting itself from

 heat damage, limiting performance to survive.

Your CPU and GPU generate heat as they work. Normally, your cooling system keeps things in check, but if temperatures climb too high—typically above 90°C—your system will automatically lower its operating speeds to reduce heat.

, a built-in safety feature that prevents permanent damage by sacrificing performance to lower temperatures.

In other words: Your PC slows down to protect itself.

If your environment is warm, or your PC frequently handles heavy tasks like rendering, gaming, or simulations, these slowdowns can happen often.

The Best Fan Installation Direction for Your PC Case

While thermal throttling protects your PC, it can interrupt your workflow and reduce productivity. Here’s how you can help your PC stay cool:

As a hardware brand, we see it all the time: creators, gamers, and engineers invest in high-performance PCs but still face slowdowns under heat. It’s often not the processor or GPU that’s the problem—it’s insufficient thermal management.

By ensuring your system stays cool, you allow your CPU and GPU to maintain high clock speeds without triggering thermal throttling. This means:

If you’re planning to build or upgrade your PC for heavy workloads, 

thermal design should be at the top of your checklist.

High temperatures trigger thermal throttling, which reduces your PC’s performance to prevent damage. While this keeps your hardware safe, it can interrupt your productivity and gaming experience.

By improving airflow, maintaining a clean system, and considering advanced cooling when building your setup, you can keep your PC cool and fast—even during demanding tasks.

If you’re looking to optimize your workstation for stable performance under heavy loads, or need guidance on cooling solutions that match your workflow, feel free to reach out. We’re here to help you keep your PC performing at its best—no matter how hot it gets.





Ever notice your PC slowing down when things get hot?

Your game suddenly drops frames, video exports take longer, and your fans sound like a jet engine, yet performance keeps dropping. This isn’t just your PC “getting old”—it’s your system protecting itself from heat damage, limiting performance to survive.







Why Does Heat Slow Down Your PC?

Your CPU and GPU generate heat as they work. Normally, your cooling system keeps things in check, but if temperatures climb too high—typically above 90°C—your system will automatically lower its operating speeds to reduce heat.

This is known as thermal throttling, a built-in safety feature that prevents permanent damage by sacrificing performance to lower temperatures.

In other words: Your PC slows down to protect itself.



How Overheating Impacts Performance

When your PC overheats, you may notice:





Games drop in frame rates during intense moments.



Video rendering and exporting slow down.



Fans ramp up, becoming loud, but temperatures remain high.



The PC’s outer casing feels warm or hot.



The system feels sluggish, especially during demanding workloads.

If your environment is warm, or your PC frequently handles heavy tasks like rendering, gaming, or simulations, these slowdowns can happen often.





(The Best Fan Installation Direction for Your PC Case)



How to Prevent Heat-Related Slowdowns

While thermal throttling protects your PC, it can interrupt your workflow and reduce productivity. Here’s how you can help your PC stay cool:





Keep your workspace well-ventilated and ensure airflow around your system.



Regularly clean out dust from fans and heatsinks to maintain clear airflow.



Avoid blocking air vents with cables or clutter near your PC.



Consider using high-quality thermal paste to improve heat transfer.



If you run demanding workloads regularly, consider investing in advanced cooling solutions or a system designed for sustained performance.





(DP7 Thermal Paste)



Why Thermal Management Matters

As a hardware brand, we see it all the time: creators, gamers, and engineers invest in high-performance PCs but still face slowdowns under heat. It’s often not the processor or GPU that’s the problem—it’s insufficient thermal management.

By ensuring your system stays cool, you allow your CPU and GPU to maintain high clock speeds without triggering thermal throttling. This means:





Consistent frame rates in games



Faster render and simulation times



Quieter operation under load



Longer hardware lifespan

If you’re planning to build or upgrade your PC for heavy workloads, thermal design should be at the top of your checklist.





(DN360S Liquid CPU Cooler)



Key Takeaway

High temperatures trigger thermal throttling, which reduces your PC’s performance to prevent damage. While this keeps your hardware safe, it can interrupt your productivity and gaming experience.

By improving airflow, maintaining a clean system, and considering advanced cooling when building your setup, you can keep your PC cool and fast—even during demanding tasks.



If you’re looking to optimize your workstation for stable performance under heavy loads, or need guidance on cooling solutions that match your workflow, feel free to reach out. We’re here to help you keep your PC performing at its best—no matter how hot it gets.





Understanding Thermal Throttling and How It Affects Performance.

Why Does My PC Slow Down When It Gets Hot?

When you're building your ideal PC workspace, there's one classic question that often comes up: “Should I place my PC case on the desk or on the floor?”

This decision isn't just about aesthetics — it can directly impact your system’s airflow, dust intake, accessibility, safety, and overall user experience. As a brand specializing in PC cases and cooling solutions, darkFlash is here to break it down for you from a technical and practical perspective.

🟢 Pros of Placing Your PC Case on the Desk

Desks are typically cleaner than floors, making your system less likely to suck in dust. This helps extend the life of fans, power supplies, and other hardware components.

Air circulation is generally better on top of a desk, especially compared to corners or under-furniture spaces on the floor. With darkFlash’s high-airflow cases and fans, you’ll see improved thermal performance when placed on a desk.

Power buttons, USB ports, and audio jacks are right within reach — no need to bend down or stretch just to plug in a flash drive or headphones.

If you're using a darkFlash case with RGB lighting, placing it on your desk allows you to fully showcase your build’s style and lighting effects. It becomes part of your room's aesthetic, not something hidden by your feet.

If your desk is already limited in space, a large case could interfere with your monitor, keyboard, or mouse area.

Being closer to your ears, any noise from the case — especially from high-RPM fans or larger air coolers — will be more noticeable and could become distracting.

Pros of Placing Your PC Case on the Floor

Perfect for users working with a smaller desk, leaving more surface area for your monitor, notebook, or other peripherals.

If you prefer a minimal or clean setup look, keeping the case off the desk helps reduce visual clutter.

PCs on the floor are more exposed to dust — especially in rooms with carpets, pet hair, or humidity — increasing the need for regular cleaning and maintenance.

Floor areas can often be warmer, more enclosed, and lack airflow, reducing cooling efficiency — especially if the PC is tucked into a tight corner.

Reaching power buttons, USB ports, or upgrading components becomes a hassle when you have to bend or kneel each time.

If you're using a tempered glass side panel PC case, we recommend placing it on the desk to fully enjoy the benefits of our airflow design and RGB lighting aesthetics.

However, if space limitations require you to place your case on the floor, we highly suggest using a 

, wooden board, or a small wheeled cart to raise the case off the ground. This reduces dust intake, avoids moisture exposure, and improves overall airflow.





When you're building your ideal PC workspace, there's one classic question that often comes up: “Should I place my PC case on the desk or on the floor?”



This decision isn't just about aesthetics — it can directly impact your system’s airflow, dust intake, accessibility, safety, and overall user experience. As a brand specializing in PC cases and cooling solutions, darkFlash is here to break it down for you from a technical and practical perspective.



🟢 Pros of Placing Your PC Case on the Desk

Less Dust Buildup

Desks are typically cleaner than floors, making your system less likely to suck in dust. This helps extend the life of fans, power supplies, and other hardware components.



Better Cooling Performance

Air circulation is generally better on top of a desk, especially compared to corners or under-furniture spaces on the floor. With darkFlash’s high-airflow cases and fans, you’ll see improved thermal performance when placed on a desk.



Easy Access to Ports and Buttons

Power buttons, USB ports, and audio jacks are right within reach — no need to bend down or stretch just to plug in a flash drive or headphones.







Show Off Your Setup

If you're using a darkFlash case with RGB lighting, placing it on your desk allows you to fully showcase your build’s style and lighting effects. It becomes part of your room's aesthetic, not something hidden by your feet.



🔴 Cons of Desk Placement

Takes Up Desk Space

If your desk is already limited in space, a large case could interfere with your monitor, keyboard, or mouse area.







Potential Noise Issues

Being closer to your ears, any noise from the case — especially from high-RPM fans or larger air coolers — will be more noticeable and could become distracting.



🟢 Pros of Placing Your PC Case on the Floor

Frees Up Desk Space

Perfect for users working with a smaller desk, leaving more surface area for your monitor, notebook, or other peripherals.







Cleaner Desk Aesthetics

If you prefer a minimal or clean setup look, keeping the case off the desk helps reduce visual clutter.



🔴 Cons of Floor Placement

Higher Dust Exposure

PCs on the floor are more exposed to dust — especially in rooms with carpets, pet hair, or humidity — increasing the need for regular cleaning and maintenance.







Less Efficient Cooling

Floor areas can often be warmer, more enclosed, and lack airflow, reducing cooling efficiency — especially if the PC is tucked into a tight corner.



Harder to Access and Maintain

Reaching power buttons, USB ports, or upgrading components becomes a hassle when you have to bend or kneel each time.



Recommendation

If you're using a tempered glass side panel PC case, we recommend placing it on the desk to fully enjoy the benefits of our airflow design and RGB lighting aesthetics.







However, if space limitations require you to place your case on the floor, we highly suggest using a PC tower stand, wooden board, or a small wheeled cart to raise the case off the ground. This reduces dust intake, avoids moisture exposure, and improves overall airflow.





Maximize airflow, minimize dust — the science behind where you place your PC case.

Should You Place Your PC Case on the Desk or the Floor?

When it comes to building a PC, planning is everything. Whether you're a first-time builder or a seasoned enthusiast, visualizing your setup ahead of time helps avoid compatibility issues and makes the whole process smoother and more cost-effective.

That’s why we are excited to introduce you to 

 — an incredibly useful online tool that lets you create and preview your custom PC builds in real time. Even better? Many of our darkFlash cases and cooling products are available on the platform, so you can see exactly how your setup will look before you make a purchase!

 is a browser-based PC builder that focuses on 

. You can select your components — from the CPU and GPU to the case, fans, and power supply — and the site will automatically check compatibility between parts. 

 apart is its stunning 3D rendering: it allows you to see how everything fits together, down to cable clearance, airflow direction, and lighting layout.

Pick your Case, CPU, motherboard, GPU, RAM, and other components step by step. If you already have some parts in mind, you can load them directly.

3. Select Your Case (Example: darkFlash DY470)

 — this is required before adding any components. You can browse the list 

 in the search bar to begin building with that case.

💡 Note: Make sure to choose products labeled with “3D” to enable 3D preview features.

After clicking on a component, you’ll see its 

 — making it easy to learn more or buy directly from online stores.

Once you’ve selected all your components, you can preview the full build in 3D. Use your mouse to rotate and view from different angles. You can also use the controls below the preview window to adjust RGB lighting effects in real time.

Happy with your setup? Save it for later or share it with friends or on forums. It’s a great way to get feedback or make sure everything’s ready before you hit “buy.”

Before You Buy, Try It Out on Buildcores!

 before making any final purchases. It’s the perfect way to visualize your setup and make sure everything works — and looks — just the way you want it.

If a product isn’t available for direct purchase, feel free to contact a local dealer in your region for assistance. We hope this tool makes your PC building experience smoother and more enjoyable!

PC building is about more than just hardware — it’s about creating something uniquely yours. Let 





When it comes to building a PC, planning is everything. Whether you're a first-time builder or a seasoned enthusiast, visualizing your setup ahead of time helps avoid compatibility issues and makes the whole process smoother and more cost-effective.

That’s why we are excited to introduce you to Buildcores — an incredibly useful online tool that lets you create and preview your custom PC builds in real time. Even better? Many of our darkFlash cases and cooling products are available on the platform, so you can see exactly how your setup will look before you make a purchase!



What is Buildcores?





Buildcores is a browser-based PC builder that focuses on visualizing your build in 3D. You can select your components — from the CPU and GPU to the case, fans, and power supply — and the site will automatically check compatibility between parts. 

What sets Buildcores apart is its stunning 3D rendering: it allows you to see how everything fits together, down to cable clearance, airflow direction, and lighting layout.



How to Use Buildcores

1. Visit the Buildcores Website

Head to https://buildcores.com and click on “Start Building” to begin.







2. Choose Your Components

Pick your Case, CPU, motherboard, GPU, RAM, and other components step by step. If you already have some parts in mind, you can load them directly.







3. Select Your Case (Example: darkFlash DY470)

Start by selecting your PC case — this is required before adding any components. You can browse the list use the filters on the left, or search for a specific model. For example, type “darkFlash DY470” in the search bar to begin building with that case.

💡 Note: Make sure to choose products labeled with “3D” to enable 3D preview features.









4. View Specs and Buy Links

After clicking on a component, you’ll see its detailed specifications along with purchase links — making it easy to learn more or buy directly from online stores.







5. Preview Your Build in 3D

Once you’ve selected all your components, you can preview the full build in 3D. Use your mouse to rotate and view from different angles. You can also use the controls below the preview window to adjust RGB lighting effects in real time.









6. Save or Share Your Build

Happy with your setup? Save it for later or share it with friends or on forums. It’s a great way to get feedback or make sure everything’s ready before you hit “buy.”



Before You Buy, Try It Out on Buildcores!





We recommend exploring your build on Buildcores before making any final purchases. It’s the perfect way to visualize your setup and make sure everything works — and looks — just the way you want it.

If a product isn’t available for direct purchase, feel free to contact a local dealer in your region for assistance. We hope this tool makes your PC building experience smoother and more enjoyable!

PC building is about more than just hardware — it’s about creating something uniquely yours. Let Buildcores and darkFlash help you bring that vision to life!

Get a realistic view of your build, check compatibility, and plan with confidence.

Visualize Your PC Build in 3D — No More Guesswork

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.