Build Guides                                                    

Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: 

 air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the 

The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.

Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)

How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.

Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.

(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)

The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

. By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.

The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:

. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way 

 of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The 

’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: Air Pressure. 



Understanding the difference between Positive and Negative air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the darkFlash FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case as our reference case."



The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.



Positive Air Pressure (The Goal)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM (Airflow in) > Total Exhaust CFM (Airflow out).



The Physics: You are forcing more air into the case than the exhaust fans can pull out. This causes the extra air to naturally push out of every tiny crack, gap, and unfiltered vent in your chassis.



The Result: Dust cannot enter through the gaps because air is constantly rushing out of them. As long as your intake fans have dust filters, the inside of your PC stays clean.







Negative Air Pressure (The Dust Magnet)





The Setup: Total Exhaust CFM > Total Intake CFM.



The Physics: Your fans are pumping air out faster than it can get in, creating a vacuum effect.



The Result: Air (and dust) is sucked in through every unfiltered crack, PCIe slots, side panel gaps, and unused ports. This turns your PC into a vacuum cleaner.







Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM slightly > Total Exhaust CFM.



The Physics: This creates a clear airflow path where fresh cool air is forced in, while dedicated exhaust fans actively remove the rising heat. It prevents the "heat soak" that can happen if you only use intake fans.



The Result: The best of both worlds. You maintain the dust-repelling benefits of positive pressure while ensuring your GPU and CPU heat is efficiently ejected from the chassis.







How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.



Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

You want more fans blowing in than blowing out. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.





The "Fish Tank" Solution: On panoramic cases like the darkFlash FLOATRON F1, the front panel is glass, which looks great but blocks front airflow.



The Fix: The FLOATRON F1 features fully open ventilation layout. These allow you to mount high-performance fans (like the darkFlash DM8 LINE) on the side and bottom to pull massive amounts of cold air in.



Pro Tip: Since the FLOATRON F1 comes with dust filters, these intakes will catch the dust before it hits your GPU.





(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)



Step 2: Choose the Right Fan for the Job

Not all fans are created equal.





For Radiators (Top Exhaust): You want fans that can push through resistance.



For Case Intake: You want durability. Since intake fans often fight against dust filters, we recommend Hydro Bearing fans. They offer a longer lifespan (~40,000+ hours) compared to standard sleeve bearings and are whisper-quiet.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE)



Step 3: The "Chimney" Configuration

Heat naturally rises. Work with physics, not against it.





Bottom: INTAKE (Cold air for the GPU).



Side: INTAKE (Fresh air for the Motherboard/CPU).



Top/Rear: EXHAUST (Pushing the hot air out).







The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

The darkFlash FLOATRON F1 solves this with its signature Suspension Design (Floating Base). By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.



The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:





Intake (5 Fans):





Bottom: 3x Fans (The floating base allows maximum air intake directly to the GPU).



Side: 2x Fans (Pulling fresh air for the Motherboard and CPU).



Exhaust (4 Fans):





Top: 3x Fans (Radiator exhaust).



Rear: 1x Fan.

The Math: 5 Intake Fans > 4 Exhaust Fans. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way out of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.







A Final Tip on Maintenance

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The FLOATRON F1’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.

Unlock the secret to a cleaner, cooler gaming rig by mastering the invisible science of positive vs. negative air pressure.

Positive vs. Negative Air Pressure: The Ultimate Guide for Dust Control

When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: 

Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings

 to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.

Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.

 of a sleeve bearing with a significantly 

. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.

Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.

Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.

Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?

The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.

 offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.



(darkFlash INF34 ARGB PWM Cooling Fan)



When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: The Bearing Type.

In this guide, we will compare Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.



Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.





(darkFlash INF34 ARGB PWM Cooling Fan)



The Pros

It combines the silence of a sleeve bearing with a significantly longer lifespan. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.



The Cons

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.



Lifespan

Good (~40,000 to 50,000+ hours).



Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.







The Pros

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.



The Cons

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.



Lifespan

Shortest (~30,000 to 40,000 hours).



Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.







The Pros

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.



The Cons

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.



Lifespan

Long (~50,000 to 70,000 hours).



Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?





The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.





Ball and Hydro Bearings are not affected by gravity. You can mount them vertically (front panel) or horizontally (top/bottom panel) without affecting their lifespan.



Sleeve Bearings hate being mounted horizontally (e.g., at the top of your case blowing air up). Gravity causes the oil to pool on one side, leading to uneven wear and rapid failure.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE ARGB PWM Cooling Fan, on FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case)





Pro Tip: If you are installing fans on the top radiator of your case, avoid cheap Sleeve bearings. Opt for Hydro bearings to ensure they last.



Conclusion

For most PC gamers and builders, Hydro (or Rifle) Bearing fans offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.

Before you buy your next fan, discover the critical difference between Hydro, Sleeve, and Ball bearings.

PC Fan Bearings Explained: Hydro, Sleeve, or Ball – Which Should You Choose?

Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: 

Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.

The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.

5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.

If you remove your cooler for any reason, 

 replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.

CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

 is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.

Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.

(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: 

Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.

 in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 

, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: Thermal Paste. 



Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.



The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.





Standard Thermal Paste: Every 2 to 3 years.



High-Performance / Premium Paste: Every 3 to 5 years.



Factory-Applied Paste (Pre-built PCs/Laptops): Often lower quality, recommended to replace after 2 years.

Why the difference? 

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.







5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:



Rising Idle Temperatures

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.



Sudden Fan Noise

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.



Thermal Throttling

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.



System Crashes

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.



Visual Inspection

If you remove your cooler for any reason, always replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.







CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

Replacing thermal paste on a CPU is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

However, repasting a GPU is a different beast:



Warranty Risks

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.



Complexity

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.



Direct Die Contact

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.



Our Advice

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.







Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:



Drying Out

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.



The Pump-Out Effect

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.





(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: CPU Ninja)



Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:



Clean the Old Paste

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.







Apply the Right Amount

You don't need much. A pea-sized dot in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.







Mount Pressure

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)



Pro Tip: 

Even the best CPU Cooler or AIO Liquid Cooler cannot perform well if the thermal paste is dry.



Conclusion

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 2 to 3 years, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)

If your PC is running hotter or louder than usual, it might be time to replace your thermal paste.

How Often Should You Replace Thermal Paste? The Ultimate Guide for CPUs and GPUs

Hardware Tips                                                   

Few things are more frustrating than watching your FPS suddenly dip while you are in the middle of a game. Your system seems fine, temps look normal, but the frame rate just drops out of nowhere. These unexpected FPS drops are extremely common, and there are several real reasons behind them.

High Temperatures Causing Thermal Throttling

The number-one cause of sudden FPS drops is excessive heat. When your CPU or GPU gets too hot, it automatically reduces its clock speed to protect itself, leading to instant performance loss.

, featuring louver side panel on PSU Chamber)

Running out of VRAM can cause instant FPS drops. When VRAM is full, the GPU is forced to offload data to system RAM, which is much slower.

Sometimes your game is not the problem. Windows or other apps may be taking CPU, GPU, or RAM in the background (e.g., Chrome tabs, Windows Update).

Power Supply Issues (Insufficient or Unstable Power)

This is an often overlooked cause. If your PSU cannot handle sudden power spikes (transients) from a modern GPU, your system may throttle or crash.

Insufficient RAM or Single-Channel Memory

Your FPS may drop if your system is running out of RAM or if it is running at low speed.

Modern games stream assets constantly. If you install games on a slow HDD, you will notice stuttering when moving to new areas.

Even the best hardware will throttle if it's choked by dust. Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks.

Conclusion: Stabilize Your Framerates with darkFlash

. While software tweaks can help, the ultimate fix is often ensuring your hardware has the environment it needs to perform. Whether you need better airflow, powerful liquid cooling, or a reliable power supply, 

darkFlash has the gear to keep your frames high and your temps low.





Few things are more frustrating than watching your FPS suddenly dip while you are in the middle of a game. Your system seems fine, temps look normal, but the frame rate just drops out of nowhere. These unexpected FPS drops are extremely common, and there are several real reasons behind them.



High Temperatures Causing Thermal Throttling

The number-one cause of sudden FPS drops is excessive heat. When your CPU or GPU gets too hot, it automatically reduces its clock speed to protect itself, leading to instant performance loss.



Typical throttle temperatures





CPU: around 90°C and above



GPU: 80–90°C depending on the model

Fixes





Improve Case Airflow: If your case feels like an oven, your components can't breathe. Consider upgrading to a high-airflow case like the darkFlash DY460 which features louvered side panels designed to maximize cold air intake.



(darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case, featuring louver side panel on PSU Chamber)







Upgrade Your Cooler: Stock coolers often struggle with modern gaming loads. Switching to a darkFlash AIO Liquid Cooler (like the DE360/240 or DO360/240 Liquid Cooler) can drop temps significantly and keep boost clocks stable.



(darkFlash DE360 Liquid CPU Cooler)







Check Your Fans: Ensure you have positive or neutral air pressure. Adding high-performance darkFlash RGB fans not only looks great but ensures heat is actively pushed out of the chassis.



(darkFlash INF34 Cooling Fan, pre-installed in DY460 PC Case)



VRAM (Graphics Memory) Is Full

Running out of VRAM can cause instant FPS drops. When VRAM is full, the GPU is forced to offload data to system RAM, which is much slower.



Fixes





Lower texture quality in game settings.



Turn off demanding effects like Ray Tracing if your card struggles.



Pro Tip: A well-cooled GPU boosts higher and handles loads better. Ensure your case has bottom or front fans directing air straight to the GPU.





Background Programs Eating Resources

Sometimes your game is not the problem. Windows or other apps may be taking CPU, GPU, or RAM in the background (e.g., Chrome tabs, Windows Update).



Fixes





Use "Exclusive Fullscreen" mode in games.



Turn on Windows Game Mode.



Check Task Manager for sudden spikes.



(Call of Duty: Black Ops 7 Trailer via Xbox YouTube Channel. Best experienced in fullscreen)



Power Supply Issues (Insufficient or Unstable Power)

This is an often overlooked cause. If your PSU cannot handle sudden power spikes (transients) from a modern GPU, your system may throttle or crash.



Symptoms





Sharp FPS drops during explosions or intense scenes.



GPU usage fluctuating wildly.

Fixes





Ensure Stability: Never skimp on your power supply unit. A high-quality PSU provides stable voltage even during load spikes.



Upgrade Capacity: If you are running a high-end card (like an RTX 5080) on an old 600W unit, it's time to upgrade to a darkFlash High-Wattage PSU to ensure your system gets the clean power it needs.



(darkFlash PMT Power Supply, Cybenetics platinum certified)



Insufficient RAM or Single-Channel Memory

Your FPS may drop if your system is running out of RAM or if it is running at low speed.



Fixes





Enable XMP / EXPO in BIOS.



Ensure you are using dual-channel configurations (two sticks are better than one).





Slow Storage Causing Loading Stalls

Modern games stream assets constantly. If you install games on a slow HDD, you will notice stuttering when moving to new areas.



Fixes





Always install AAA games on an NVMe SSD.





Dust Buildup & Maintenance

Even the best hardware will throttle if it's choked by dust. Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks.



Fixes





Regular Cleaning: Clean your PC every 3-6 months.



Use Dust Filters: This is why most of darkFlash cases come equipped with easy-to-remove dust filters. They catch the dust before it hits your components, making cleaning as easy as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Conclusion: Stabilize Your Framerates with darkFlash

Most sudden FPS drops are caused by Heat or Power. While software tweaks can help, the ultimate fix is often ensuring your hardware has the environment it needs to perform. Whether you need better airflow, powerful liquid cooling, or a reliable power supply, darkFlash has the gear to keep your frames high and your temps low.





Sudden FPS drops are common and frustrating, here are the real reasons behind them and how to fix them.

Why Does My FPS Drop Suddenly in Games? Causes and How to Fix It

How-to Guides                                                   

Choosing a monitor can feel overwhelming — there are so many specs, sizes, and prices. But don't worry: once you understand a few basics, picking the right monitor becomes surprisingly easy.

Below is a simple breakdown of the most important things to know: resolution, panel type, refresh rate, and use-case recommendations.

Resolution is the number of pixels on your screen. More pixels = clearer images.

Panel Types — How the Colors & Viewing Angles Look

Refresh Rate — How Smooth the Motion Feels

[Slow motion] 240Hz vs 144Hz vs 120Hz vs 60Hz - Monitor refresh rates

Screen Size & Ratio — How Much Space You See

Ultrawide monitors provide extra productivity space and a cinematic feel but cost more.

Color Accuracy & HDR — Optional But Nice to Have

If HDR is important, look for at least HDR400 (entry) or HDR600+ (better).

A good monitor depends on what you do. But if you want a simple, no-brainer recommendation:

It offers sharp resolution, smooth gaming, great colors, and excellent value.





Choosing a monitor can feel overwhelming — there are so many specs, sizes, and prices. But don't worry: once you understand a few basics, picking the right monitor becomes surprisingly easy.



Below is a simple breakdown of the most important things to know: resolution, panel type, refresh rate, and use-case recommendations.



Resolution — How Sharp the Image Looks

Resolution is the number of pixels on your screen. More pixels = clearer images.





(Image Credit: LogicalIncrements)


Common monitor resolutions:









Quick Tip: For most people, 1440p provides the best balance between price, performance, and clarity.



Panel Types — How the Colors & Viewing Angles Look

Monitors mainly use IPS, VA, or TN panels. Each has pros and cons.





(Image Credit: BENQ)



IPS (Most Recommended for Most Users)





Best color accuracy



Wide viewing angles



Good for work, gaming, content creation



Downside: Slightly more expensive



VA (Great Contrast, Good for Movies)





Deep blacks and high contrast



Good all-around performance



Downside: Slightly slower response times



TN (Fast & Cheap, but Lower Quality)





Very fast for esports



Cheapest panel type



Downside: Poor color accuracy and viewing angles



Quick Tip: If you don’t know what to choose, IPS is the safest and best choice.



Refresh Rate — How Smooth the Motion Feels

Measured in Hz (Hertz). Higher = smoother.





(Image Credit: [Slow motion] 240Hz vs 144Hz vs 120Hz vs 60Hz - Monitor refresh rates)









Quick Tip: For gaming, always aim for 144Hz or above.



Screen Size & Ratio — How Much Space You See





24"–27" = most common



32" = great for 4K or large desks



21:9 ultrawide = perfect for multitasking and immersive gaming

Ultrawide monitors provide extra productivity space and a cinematic feel but cost more.



Color Accuracy & HDR — Optional But Nice to Have





sRGB coverage matters for normal use



DCI-P3 is better for creative work



HDR (High Dynamic Range) makes colors pop — but only useful on high-brightness panels

If HDR is important, look for at least HDR400 (entry) or HDR600+ (better).



Which Monitor Should You Choose?





For Gaming





1440p + 144Hz



IPS or fast VA



Adaptive Sync (G-Sync / FreeSync)



For Office / Light Use





1080p or 1440p



IPS for comfort



24" or 27"



For Creative Work (Photo / Video)





4K IPS



90–100% DCI-P3



Good color calibration + HDR



For Multitaskers





34" ultrawide (3440×1440)



IPS or VA



Great for productivity



Conclusion

A good monitor depends on what you do. But if you want a simple, no-brainer recommendation:



27" IPS, 1440p, 144Hz is the perfect all-rounder for most users.

It offers sharp resolution, smooth gaming, great colors, and excellent value.





New to PC monitors? This beginner-friendly guide explains everything you need to know.

PC Monitor Buying Guide 2025: Specs, Panels & Refresh Rates Explained

Gaming chairs have become one of the most essential parts of a gaming setup. While GPUs, keyboards, and monitors often get the most attention, comfort and posture can impact your performance just as much. A high-quality gaming chair keeps you comfortable, focused, and supported during long gaming or streaming sessions.

In this guide, we explain why gaming chairs are suitable for gaming, explore the different materials used, and break down the tier system, so consumers can understand why some gaming chairs cost more than others.

A gaming chair is a specially designed ergonomic chair built to support gamers during long hours of gameplay. It typically features:

These features make gaming chairs ideal for both gaming and work-from-home setups.

Why a Gaming Chair Is Suitable for Gaming

Gaming chairs are engineered around ergonomics, providing full-body support.

For gamers who spend hours playing, proper support makes a noticeable difference in comfort and performance.

These adjustments allow users to find the perfect posture for gaming, productivity, or relaxing.

Poor seating reduces blood flow and increases fatigue.

This contributes to better reaction times and concentration.

From bold colors to sleek racing designs, a gaming chair completes the visual identity of your setup.

Streamers especially love gaming chairs because they look great on camera and reflect a gamer lifestyle.

Why Some Chairs Are Cheaper and Some Are Premium

Entry-Level Gaming Chairs (Budget-Friendly)

Best for: students, casual gamers, basic setups

Price factor: simpler design + lower material cost

Manufactured using accessible materials and simplified construction to keep costs low.

Best for: daily gamers, hybrid gaming/office use

Price factor: upgraded materials + improved ergonomics

Higher-grade materials, better comfort technology, and stronger construction.

Best for: serious gamers, long streaming sessions, professionals

Price factor: top-tier material + advanced comfort engineering

These chairs use premium upholstery, advanced foam technology, and extremely durable frames — built to last.

Best for: professionals, streamers, luxury buyers

Price factor: specialty materials + exclusive premium features

These chairs combine luxury materials with advanced ergonomics and exclusive premium finishing.

Choose the tier that matches how much you want to invest.

Fabric vs PU vs Hybrid Leather — consider climate, sweat, durability.

More adjustability = better posture = longer comfort.

Higher-end chairs last longer and provide better return on investment.

Conclusion: A Gaming Chair Is an Investment in Comfort & Performance

A good gaming chair doesn’t just elevate your setup—it enhances your posture, comfort, gameplay performance, and long-term health.

Understanding the differences between entry-level, mid-range, and premium materials helps consumers choose the perfect chair for their needs.





Gaming chairs have become one of the most essential parts of a gaming setup. While GPUs, keyboards, and monitors often get the most attention, comfort and posture can impact your performance just as much. A high-quality gaming chair keeps you comfortable, focused, and supported during long gaming or streaming sessions.



In this guide, we explain why gaming chairs are suitable for gaming, explore the different materials used, and break down the tier system, so consumers can understand why some gaming chairs cost more than others.



What Is a Gaming Chair?





A gaming chair is a specially designed ergonomic chair built to support gamers during long hours of gameplay. It typically features:





Adjustable height



Reclining backrest



Multi-directional armrests



Lumbar and neck support



Stylish racing-inspired aesthetics

These features make gaming chairs ideal for both gaming and work-from-home setups.



Why a Gaming Chair Is Suitable for Gaming





Designed for Long-Hour Comfort

Gaming chairs are engineered around ergonomics, providing full-body support.
This helps reduce:





Back pain



Neck strain



Shoulder fatigue

For gamers who spend hours playing, proper support makes a noticeable difference in comfort and performance.



Fully Adjustable for Better Posture

Modern gaming chairs offer:





Recline up to 150–180°



2D/3D/4D armrests



Adjustable lumbar support



Tilt and rocking mechanisms

These adjustments allow users to find the perfect posture for gaming, productivity, or relaxing.



Improved Focus and Performance

Poor seating reduces blood flow and increases fatigue.
A good gaming chair keeps you:





Alert



Focused



Comfortable



Energized

This contributes to better reaction times and concentration.



Enhances Your Gaming Setup Aesthetics

From bold colors to sleek racing designs, a gaming chair completes the visual identity of your setup.
Streamers especially love gaming chairs because they look great on camera and reflect a gamer lifestyle.



Why Some Chairs Are Cheaper and Some Are Premium





Entry-Level Gaming Chairs (Budget-Friendly)

Best for: students, casual gamers, basic setups
Price factor: simpler design + lower material cost



Materials & Features





Standard PU leather: thinner, may peel faster



Regular foam: decent comfort, but compresses over time



1D–2D armrests: basic height adjustments



Simple tilt mechanism: limited flexibility



Nylon base: lightweight but less durable

Why It's Cheaper

Manufactured using accessible materials and simplified construction to keep costs low.



Mid-Range Gaming Chairs (Best Value)

Best for: daily gamers, hybrid gaming/office use

Price factor: upgraded materials + improved ergonomics



Materials & Features





Premium PU or soft fabric: thicker, more durable



High-density molded foam: keeps shape longer



3D–4D armrests: adjustable angle, depth, and rotation



Advanced tilt and locking mechanisms



Steel frame + metal base: stable and durable



Contoured lumbar pillow / memory-foam neck pillow

Why It Costs More

Higher-grade materials, better comfort technology, and stronger construction.



High-End Gaming Chairs (Premium Segment)

Best for: serious gamers, long streaming sessions, professionals
Price factor: top-tier material + advanced comfort engineering



Materials & Features





Hybrid PU / microfiber leather / real leather options



Cold-cure foam: retains firmness for years



4D armrests with soft-touch pads



Multi-tilt mechanisms with angle lock



Aluminum or heavy-duty steel base



Magnetic memory foam pillows



Optional woven fabric for breathability

Why It’s Expensive

These chairs use premium upholstery, advanced foam technology, and extremely durable frames — built to last.



Ultra-Premium / Flagship Chairs

Best for: professionals, streamers, luxury buyers
Price factor: specialty materials + exclusive premium features



Materials & Features





Nappa leather / eco leather



Cold-cure foam with memory gel layer



Dial-adjustable lumbar support



Extra-wide reinforced frame



Whisper-quiet premium wheels



Custom embroidery / RGB options

Why It Costs the Most

These chairs combine luxury materials with advanced ergonomics and exclusive premium finishing.



How to Choose the Right Gaming Chair 





1. Set Your Budget

Choose the tier that matches how much you want to invest.



2. Consider Usage Time





< 2 hours/day → Entry Level



2–6 hours/day → Mid-Range



6–12 hours/day → High-end and above



3. Check Material Durability

Fabric vs PU vs Hybrid Leather — consider climate, sweat, durability.



4. Look at Adjustability

More adjustability = better posture = longer comfort.



5. Think Long-Term

Higher-end chairs last longer and provide better return on investment.



Conclusion: A Gaming Chair Is an Investment in Comfort & Performance





A good gaming chair doesn’t just elevate your setup—it enhances your posture, comfort, gameplay performance, and long-term health.


Understanding the differences between entry-level, mid-range, and premium materials helps consumers choose the perfect chair for their needs.

Not all gaming chairs are equal. The materials used directly affect comfort, durability, and price.

How to Choose a Gaming Chair: Benefits, Features, and Buying Guide

Addressable RGB (ARGB) has become a standard feature in modern PC components—fans, AIO coolers, light strips, and even GPU/CPU blocks. While most users know “5V 3-pin ARGB,” fewer people understand that there are actually two generations of ARGB wiring systems: Gen 1 and Gen 2.

This guide explains the differences, compatibility rules, and how you should properly connect each generation.

Both Gen 1 and Gen 2 ARGB share the same electrical standard:

The key difference lies in the signal design and controller communication.

This is the classic ARGB standard used by nearly all brands for many years:

Gen 1 is simple: plug everything together, and the signal flows straight through.

Introduced mainly by ASUS, this version still uses 5V 3-pin, but with additional ID/telemetry capability built into the LED module or controller.

Even though the connector looks identical, Gen 2 devices have a slightly different internal wiring/resistor setup for LED count detection.

You can connect Gen 1 to Gen 2 headers and vice versa.

Works, but LED count auto-detection is disabled.

Works, but the motherboard cannot read LED count (normal for Gen 1).

ARGB Gen 1 and Gen 2 may share the same 5V 3-pin connector, but they differ in how they handle LED control and device detection. Gen 1 offers universal compatibility and simple daisy-chain lighting, while Gen 2 introduces more intelligent features such as automatic LED count calibration—especially useful on ASUS motherboards. 

The good news is that both generations are electrically compatible, meaning you can mix and match them as long as you understand how detection and chaining behave.

For most builds, connecting Gen 1 and Gen 2 together will work perfectly fine. Just remember that Gen 2 features won’t function when paired with a Gen 1 header or hub, and placing a Gen 2 device first in the chain ensures the best results. With proper planning and cable management, both systems can deliver vibrant, synchronized RGB lighting throughout your PC build.





Addressable RGB (ARGB) has become a standard feature in modern PC components—fans, AIO coolers, light strips, and even GPU/CPU blocks. While most users know “5V 3-pin ARGB,” fewer people understand that there are actually two generations of ARGB wiring systems: Gen 1 and Gen 2.

This guide explains the differences, compatibility rules, and how you should properly connect each generation.



What Are ARGB Gen 1 and Gen 2?

Both Gen 1 and Gen 2 ARGB share the same electrical standard:





Voltage: 5V



Pin count: 3-pin



Control: Individually addressable LEDs



Header shape: Typically 3-pin with a missing pin in the middle (5V-D-G)

The key difference lies in the signal design and controller communication.



ARGB Gen 1 (Traditional 5V 3-Pin ARGB)





This is the classic ARGB standard used by nearly all brands for many years:





Pin layout: 5V / DATA / GND



Signal type: Basic digital LED control



LED type: Standard WS2812/WS2811-type addressable ICs



Daisy-chain: Supported



Motherboard compatibility: ASUS Aura Sync, MSI Mystic Light, Gigabyte RGB Fusion, ASRock Polychrome, etc.



Gen 1 Key Characteristics





Works with almost all older ARGB fans/lights



Same data line runs through all devices



Device identity is fixed—motherboards cannot identify “individual devices,” only LED positions



Maximum LED count may vary depending on motherboard

Gen 1 is simple: plug everything together, and the signal flows straight through.



ARGB Gen 2 (ASUS Gen 2)





Introduced mainly by ASUS, this version still uses 5V 3-pin, but with additional ID/telemetry capability built into the LED module or controller.



Gen 2 Features





Allows the controller to detect the number of LEDs



Enables automatic calibration



Allows more precise effects because the system knows the LED count



Same connector shape as Gen 1



May include extra detect resistor that the motherboard reads

Even though the connector looks identical, Gen 2 devices have a slightly different internal wiring/resistor setup for LED count detection.



Are ARGB Gen 1 and Gen 2 Compatible?





Electrically compatible

Both use:





5V



3-pin



Same digital LED protocol

You can connect Gen 1 to Gen 2 headers and vice versa.



However:





Gen 1 devices do NOT support Gen 2’s intelligent LED detection



Gen 2 devices connected to Gen 1 headers will lose Gen 2 features, but still light up normally



Daisy-chain rules change slightly



Daisy-Chain Compatibility

Gen 1 → Gen 1

Fully daisy-chainable. No issues.

Gen 2 → Gen 2

Fully compatible. LED detection works.

Gen 2 device → Gen 1 header

Works, but LED count auto-detection is disabled.

Gen 1 device → Gen 2 header

Works, but the motherboard cannot read LED count (normal for Gen 1).





⚠ Important Note

Some ARGB Gen 2 devices include extra protection or ID resistors.
If you daisy-chain a Gen 1 product behind a Gen 2 product, LED detection may misreport or fail.
Lighting still works, but auto-calibration may not function correctly.

 Best practice:





Put Gen 2 product first (closest to the header), then chain Gen 1 behind it
—OR—



Use separate headers if you want perfect Gen 2 detection.



When Do You Need a Hub?



Use an ARGB hub when:





You have multiple fans



Your motherboard has limited ARGB headers



You want synchronized lighting



You want cleaner cable management



Note:
Gen 2 auto LED detection usually does not work across:





Cheap Gen 1 hubs



Non-Asus hubs

If you want full Gen 2 functionality, you need an ASUS Gen 2-compatible hub.



Conclusion

ARGB Gen 1 and Gen 2 may share the same 5V 3-pin connector, but they differ in how they handle LED control and device detection. Gen 1 offers universal compatibility and simple daisy-chain lighting, while Gen 2 introduces more intelligent features such as automatic LED count calibration—especially useful on ASUS motherboards. 



The good news is that both generations are electrically compatible, meaning you can mix and match them as long as you understand how detection and chaining behave.



For most builds, connecting Gen 1 and Gen 2 together will work perfectly fine. Just remember that Gen 2 features won’t function when paired with a Gen 1 header or hub, and placing a Gen 2 device first in the chain ensures the best results. With proper planning and cable management, both systems can deliver vibrant, synchronized RGB lighting throughout your PC build.

Understanding 5V 3-Pin ARGB Standards, Daisy-Chain Compatibility, and Setup Tips.

ARGB Gen 1 vs. Gen 2: What's the Difference and How to Connect Them?

Product News                                                    

 launched, it quickly gained attention for its panoramic visibility and bold geometric design. Along the way, we also received valuable feedback from users who loved the look but wanted a version with a more streamlined layout and airflow-focused adjustments.

 — not an upgrade, not a downgrade, but 

 that offers the same design DNA with a different approach to space, cooling, and usability.

Both models feature a panoramic three-glass structure that opens the system from nearly every angle.

Each model carries the signature DY Series faceted panel design, creating clean reflections and sharp visual lines.

Both cases fully support back-connect motherboards for a cleaner interior and simplified cable routing.

The DY460 and DY470 share the same visual identity and panoramic presentation, but they serve different building styles. Two designs, one philosophy, giving builders the freedom to choose the version that fits their vision.

Ideal for players who want a cleaner airflow path, a more compact footprint, and a layout designed around everyday usability and straightforward cable management.

Ideal for users who prefer broader internal space, more flexibility for fans and radiators, and a full showcase-style build with wide panoramic visibility.





When the DY470 launched, it quickly gained attention for its panoramic visibility and bold geometric design. Along the way, we also received valuable feedback from users who loved the look but wanted a version with a more streamlined layout and airflow-focused adjustments.

This led to the creation of the DY460 — not an upgrade, not a downgrade, but a parallel option that offers the same design DNA with a different approach to space, cooling, and usability.



What They Share

Three-Sided Glass, 330° Visibility

Both models feature a panoramic three-glass structure that opens the system from nearly every angle.







Diamond-Cut Aesthetic

Each model carries the signature DY Series faceted panel design, creating clean reflections and sharp visual lines.







Back-Connector Motherboard Support

Both cases fully support back-connect motherboards for a cleaner interior and simplified cable routing.







Where They Differ

Size and Footprint





DY460: 452 × 238 × 505 mm, more compact for typical desk setups.



DY470: 473 × 298 × 497 mm, wider internal space for fans, radiators, and large GPUs.





Airflow and PSU Chamber





DY460: louvered PSU chamber panel to enhance bottom-area ventilation.



DY470: solid chamber design for a cleaner showcase look.



(DY460, Louvered side vents)



Internal Layout





DY460: top-and-bottom chamber layout for straightforward cable management.



DY470: left-and-right dual-chamber design, offering a wider main compartment for high-end builds.



(DY460, top-and-bottom chamber)



I/O Placement





DY460: Front-mounted I/O for easy access on a desktop.



DY470: Side-mounted I/O, ideal for larger showcase-style setups.



(DY460, Front-mounted I/O)



Conclusion

The DY460 and DY470 share the same visual identity and panoramic presentation, but they serve different building styles. Two designs, one philosophy, giving builders the freedom to choose the version that fits their vision.







DY460

Ideal for players who want a cleaner airflow path, a more compact footprint, and a layout designed around everyday usability and straightforward cable management.







DY470

Ideal for users who prefer broader internal space, more flexibility for fans and radiators, and a full showcase-style build with wide panoramic visibility.





The DY460 and DY470 share the same design DNA, but each offers a different approach to space, airflow, and building style.

DY460 vs. DY470: Two Choices, One Shared Vision

When building a PC, one of the most important yet confusing steps is connecting the Power Supply Unit (PSU). The PSU sends power to every component in your system — from your motherboard and CPU to your GPU and drives.

In this guide, we’ll use the darkFlash PMT Series PSU — known for its modular design, high efficiency, and clean cable layout — as a real example to show you where every cable goes and what each one does.

2. CPU 4+4-Pin Connector – Powering the Processor

Delivers power directly to your CPU for stable operation.

The 4+4-pin (EPS) cable from your PSU goes into labeled 

 socket at the top-left corner of your motherboard.

3. SATA Power Connector – For Storage & Accessories

Powers SATA-based storage drives and accessories, such as:

The flat, L-shaped SATA connector plugs into the side of drives or accessories.

4. Molex Connector – For Legacy Devices

Supplies 12V power to older devices or certain accessories (like some LED strips or fan hubs).

If your accessories use Molex, connect them to the Molex chain cable from your PMT PSU. Otherwise, you can leave this cable unused.

5. PCIe 6+2-Pin Connector – For Your Graphics Card

. Modern GPUs demand a lot of power, often requiring multiple connectors.

Connect the 6+2-pin PCIe cable(s) from the PSU to your GPU’s power input(s). You can use:

6. 12V-2×6 Connector – For Next-Gen GPUs

This next-generation connector (also called 12VHPWR) delivers up to 600 W through one compact 16-pin plug.

Connect it to your GPU's 16-pin port until you hear a click. Ensure the plug is fully seated to prevent heat buildup.





When building a PC, one of the most important yet confusing steps is connecting the Power Supply Unit (PSU). The PSU sends power to every component in your system — from your motherboard and CPU to your GPU and drives.



In this guide, we’ll use the darkFlash PMT Series PSU — known for its modular design, high efficiency, and clean cable layout — as a real example to show you where every cable goes and what each one does.



1. 24-Pin ATX Main Connector





Purpose

Supplies power to the motherboard.


Where it goes

Right edge of the motherboard.





Tip 1: Modern boards use a 24-pin connector, but older ones may use 20-pin. The extra 4 pins are backward-compatible.

Tip 2: The cable is keyed to fit one way. Make sure it clicks securely into place.



2. CPU 4+4-Pin Connector – Powering the Processor





Purpose

Delivers power directly to your CPU for stable operation.



Where to Plug

The 4+4-pin (EPS) cable from your PSU goes into labeled CPU_PWR or ATX12 socket at the top-left corner of your motherboard.





Tip: Some motherboards may require additional 4pin or 4+4 pin connector. 

Tip: Be careful not to confuse it with PCIe cables — the pin layout is different even though they look similar.



3. SATA Power Connector – For Storage & Accessories





Purpose

Powers SATA-based storage drives and accessories, such as:





SSDs / HDDs



Fan or ARGB controllers



AIO pumps



Where to Plug

The flat, L-shaped SATA connector plugs into the side of drives or accessories.





Tip: Each SATA cable usually has 3–4 connectors, allowing you to chain multiple devices.



4. Molex Connector – For Legacy Devices





Purpose

Supplies 12V power to older devices or certain accessories (like some LED strips or fan hubs).



Where to Plug

If your accessories use Molex, connect them to the Molex chain cable from your PMT PSU. Otherwise, you can leave this cable unused.





Tip: Align the connector carefully — the pins are rigid and can bend if forced.



5. PCIe 6+2-Pin Connector – For Your Graphics Card





Purpose

Provides power to your GPU. The PCI Express (PCIe) connector powers your GPU (graphics card). Modern GPUs demand a lot of power, often requiring multiple connectors.



Where to Plug

Connect the 6+2-pin PCIe cable(s) from the PSU to your GPU’s power input(s). You can use:





1× 8-pin for entry GPUs



2× 8-pin for mid-range



3× 8-pin or 12V-2×6 for high-end models





Tip: Always use PCIe/VGA-labeled cables, not CPU ones.



6. 12V-2×6 Connector – For Next-Gen GPUs





Purpose

This next-generation connector (also called 12VHPWR) delivers up to 600 W through one compact 16-pin plug.



Where to Plug

Connect it to your GPU's 16-pin port until you hear a click. Ensure the plug is fully seated to prevent heat buildup.





Tip: If your GPU uses an adapter (e.g., 3× 8-pin to 12V-2×6), make sure all cables are plugged directly into the PSU — avoid daisy-chaining for high-power cards.



Pro Tips from darkFlash









Use modular PSUs to connect only what you need.



Route cables behind the motherboard tray for better airflow.



Double-check all connections before turning on your PC.



If you hear no fan spin or lights, recheck the 24-pin and CPU connectors first.



Final Thoughts





Connecting your PSU correctly is crucial for both performance and safety. Every plug has its purpose — once you understand what each does, building and upgrading your PC becomes easy and enjoyable. 

Take your time, check your manuals, and make sure every click counts.

Learn how to connect your PC PSU correctly!