How-to Guides                                                   

 starts making a gurgling, bubbling, or sloshing noise, don’t panic. This is usually caused by trapped air in the loop, which can reduce cooling performance and increase noise.

In this guide, we’ll explain what causes bubbling sounds in a liquid CPU cooler and how to fix them step by step—so your PC stays cool and quiet.

Why Does My AIO Cooler Make a Bubbling or Gurgling Noise?

How to Fix Bubbling Noise in an AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

not positioned at the highest point of the loop

. Ideally, the radiator should be mounted higher than the pump so that any air collects in the radiator and doesn’t damage the pump.

Slowly tilt your PC case left and right to help dislodge air bubbles stuck in the tubing. This encourages the bubbles to move to the radiator, where they won’t interfere with the pump.

Use your cooler’s software to set the pump speed to 100% and let it run for 30–60 minutes. This increases fluid pressure in the loop and helps push out trapped air.

Step 4: Rotate the Case to Different Angles

If the bubbling noise persists, try rotating your case about 45 degrees in various directions. This can help release stubborn bubbles that haven’t yet settled.

⚠️ Pro Tip: Since these steps involve moving the PC, it’s a good idea to remove heavy components like the GPU and mechanical hard drives to avoid damage during handling.

What If the Bubbling Noise Doesn’t Stop?

If the noise continues even after these steps, your AIO cooler may have shipped with excess air or developed a leak. Contact the manufacturer’s support for further assistance or to request a replacement.





If your AIO liquid cooler starts making a gurgling, bubbling, or sloshing noise, don’t panic. This is usually caused by trapped air in the loop, which can reduce cooling performance and increase noise.

In this guide, we’ll explain what causes bubbling sounds in a liquid CPU cooler and how to fix them step by step—so your PC stays cool and quiet.



Why Does My AIO Cooler Make a Bubbling or Gurgling Noise?





Designed air pockets: AIO (all-in-one) liquid coolers are shipped with a small amount of air in the system to allow for thermal expansion and prevent hose damage.



Coolant evaporation over time: As you use your PC, a small amount of coolant can evaporate, increasing the amount of air in the loop and causing the familiar gurgling or sloshing sound when the pump runs.



How to Fix Bubbling Noise in an AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Step 1: Check the Pump Installation

Ensure that the pump is not positioned at the highest point of the loop. Ideally, the radiator should be mounted higher than the pump so that any air collects in the radiator and doesn’t damage the pump.







Related Guide:





Step 2: Gently Tilt the PC Case

Slowly tilt your PC case left and right to help dislodge air bubbles stuck in the tubing. This encourages the bubbles to move to the radiator, where they won’t interfere with the pump.







Step 3: Run the Pump at Maximum RPM

Use your cooler’s software to set the pump speed to 100% and let it run for 30–60 minutes. This increases fluid pressure in the loop and helps push out trapped air.







Step 4: Rotate the Case to Different Angles

If the bubbling noise persists, try rotating your case about 45 degrees in various directions. This can help release stubborn bubbles that haven’t yet settled.



⚠️ Pro Tip: Since these steps involve moving the PC, it’s a good idea to remove heavy components like the GPU and mechanical hard drives to avoid damage during handling.



What If the Bubbling Noise Doesn’t Stop?

If the noise continues even after these steps, your AIO cooler may have shipped with excess air or developed a leak. Contact the manufacturer’s support for further assistance or to request a replacement.





(Video guide courtesy of CORSAIR LAB)

How to fix AIO cooler bubbling noise and keep your PC cool and quiet.

How to Fix AIO Liquid Cooler Bubbling or Gurgling Noise

In recent years, all-white PC builds have become the go-to choice for many gamers looking to create a clean and stylish setup. But questions like 

“Will my white components turn yellow?”

 are common concerns. In this article, we’ll explain why white PCs may yellow over time and how to properly care for them so they stay bright and pristine.

Why Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? Key Causes Explained

White materials aren’t guaranteed to yellow, but they do show signs of aging more noticeably than black ones. The main reasons include:

When your PC is placed in direct sunlight for extended periods, ultraviolet light can trigger photochemical reactions in certain plastics and coatings, gradually causing them to yellow.

Oil, dust, and fine particles in the air can settle on white surfaces over time, making them look dull or dirty yellow.

Long-term heat can accelerate material degradation, especially around areas near exhaust vents where temperatures are higher.

Not all white coatings and plastics are made equal. Different brands and production batches can have varying resistance to aging. Choosing reputable products significantly reduces the chance of yellowing.

How to Maintain Your White PC? 5 Simple Tips to Keep It Looking New

While white builds are at some risk of yellowing, with regular cleaning and proper placement, you can keep your system looking immaculate. Here are some practical tips for gamers:

Place your PC in a cool, shaded area to minimize UV exposure.

Wipe down surfaces at least once a month with a lint-free dry cloth or a lightly dampened one. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners.

Use an air purifier and keep your room tidy to minimize dust and oil particles settling on your PC.

Ensure good airflow around your system to prevent excessive heat buildup that can accelerate aging.

Opt for components with high-quality, durable coatings designed to resist discoloration. For example, 

 is specifically engineered for long-lasting beauty.

Conclusion: White PCs Don’t Have to Yellow — It’s All About the Right Care and Quality

White PC builds don’t inevitably turn yellow quickly — it all depends on the materials and your environment. By choosing reliable products and practicing regular cleaning while avoiding direct sunlight, you can enjoy a bright, white rig for years to come.

If you’re looking for a beautifully designed, durable white case or cooling solution, check out the 

 — helping you build the pure white setup of your dreams!





In recent years, all-white PC builds have become the go-to choice for many gamers looking to create a clean and stylish setup. But questions like “Will my white components turn yellow?” or “How long before they discolor?” are common concerns. In this article, we’ll explain why white PCs may yellow over time and how to properly care for them so they stay bright and pristine.



Why Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? Key Causes Explained

White materials aren’t guaranteed to yellow, but they do show signs of aging more noticeably than black ones. The main reasons include:



UV Exposure

When your PC is placed in direct sunlight for extended periods, ultraviolet light can trigger photochemical reactions in certain plastics and coatings, gradually causing them to yellow.



Air Pollution and Dust

Oil, dust, and fine particles in the air can settle on white surfaces over time, making them look dull or dirty yellow.



High Temperatures

Long-term heat can accelerate material degradation, especially around areas near exhaust vents where temperatures are higher.



Material Quality Differences

Not all white coatings and plastics are made equal. Different brands and production batches can have varying resistance to aging. Choosing reputable products significantly reduces the chance of yellowing.







How to Maintain Your White PC? 5 Simple Tips to Keep It Looking New

While white builds are at some risk of yellowing, with regular cleaning and proper placement, you can keep your system looking immaculate. Here are some practical tips for gamers:



1. Avoid Direct Sunlight

Place your PC in a cool, shaded area to minimize UV exposure.



2. Clean Regularly

Wipe down surfaces at least once a month with a lint-free dry cloth or a lightly dampened one. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners.



3. Keep the Air Clean

Use an air purifier and keep your room tidy to minimize dust and oil particles settling on your PC.



4. Maintain Proper Ventilation

Ensure good airflow around your system to prevent excessive heat buildup that can accelerate aging.



5. Choose Quality Products

Opt for components with high-quality, durable coatings designed to resist discoloration. For example, darkFlash’s all-white series is specifically engineered for long-lasting beauty.





(Case: DRX70 / Cooler: DN360)



Conclusion: White PCs Don’t Have to Yellow — It’s All About the Right Care and Quality

White PC builds don’t inevitably turn yellow quickly — it all depends on the materials and your environment. By choosing reliable products and practicing regular cleaning while avoiding direct sunlight, you can enjoy a bright, white rig for years to come.





(Case: DY470 / Cooler: DN360S / Fans: DM12 Pro)



If you’re looking for a beautifully designed, durable white case or cooling solution, check out the darkFlash white series — helping you build the pure white setup of your dreams!

Why white PCs yellow — and how to keep yours looking brand new.

Do White PC Builds Turn Yellow? How to Keep Your White Rig Looking Brand New

Hardware Tips                                                   

As processors become more powerful, their heat output has also increased significantly. More and more gamers and creators are opting for liquid coolers to help keep their CPUs cool.

However, many beginners or upgraders often have one common question when choosing a liquid cooler: 

In short, thanks to years of technological improvements, modern 

 have greatly reduced the risk of leaks — but that doesn’t mean there’s 

Why Are Modern Liquid Coolers Less Prone to Leaks?

The technology behind liquid coolers has matured considerably. The tubing, fittings, and radiator joints now use more durable composite materials that resist high temperatures and repeated bending.

To ensure product quality, most brands conduct 

 before shipping, making sure the cooler leaves the factory without defects.

Modern coolants use non-conductive, corrosion-resistant special formulas, which help prevent evaporation and crystallization. This keeps internal pressure stable and minimizes the risk of leaks.

, delivering reliable cooling performance with a stylish and stable design.

Looking for a high-performance liquid cooler that also looks great? Look no further than the 

, offering a high resolution of 480×480 pixels. 





As processors become more powerful, their heat output has also increased significantly. More and more gamers and creators are opting for liquid coolers to help keep their CPUs cool.
However, many beginners or upgraders often have one common question when choosing a liquid cooler: Do liquid coolers still leak?



In short, thanks to years of technological improvements, modern All-In-One (AIO) liquid coolers have greatly reduced the risk of leaks — but that doesn’t mean there’s zero risk. In rare cases, leaks can still occur.



Why Are Modern Liquid Coolers Less Prone to Leaks?



Advanced Manufacturing Techniques

The technology behind liquid coolers has matured considerably. The tubing, fittings, and radiator joints now use more durable composite materials that resist high temperatures and repeated bending.



Rigorous Factory Testing

To ensure product quality, most brands conduct pressure tests and leak tests before shipping, making sure the cooler leaves the factory without defects.



Improved Coolant Formulations

Modern coolants use non-conductive, corrosion-resistant special formulas, which help prevent evaporation and crystallization. This keeps internal pressure stable and minimizes the risk of leaks.







What Can Cause a Liquid Cooler to Leak?





Severe impacts during shipping that damage the cooler



Abnormal use, such as excessive pulling or bending of the tubing



Long-term use exceeding 8 years



How to Minimize the Risk of Leaks





Avoid bending the tubes excessively during installation



Keep the inside of your case dry and tidy



Choose a reputable brand (such as darkFlash)



Consider replacing your liquid cooler if it’s beyond its warranty period





Recommended Liquid Coolers: DN360S



(DV360S Liquid CPU Cooler)



DV360S liquid cooler combines a 320×320 IPS LCD display, ARGB lighting integration, and a copper base water block, delivering reliable cooling performance with a stylish and stable design.



Recommended Liquid Coolers: DN360S





(DN360S Liquid CPU Cooler)



Looking for a high-performance liquid cooler that also looks great? Look no further than the darkFlash DN series liquid coolers! The DN360S comes equipped with a 2.1-inch IPS display, offering a high resolution of 480×480 pixels. 

With improved engineering and quality control, leaks have become uncommon.

Do Liquid Coolers Still Leak?

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.