Product News                                                    

Aesthetic-minded users who believe their desktop setup should be as visually inspiring as the work they produce.

At the heart of the DS900WDE is a bold design philosophy:

 — the DS900WDE transforms your build into a decorative centerpiece. This natural texture brings warmth to your workspace, harmonizing with minimal, Nordic, or studio aesthetics.

, offering an unobstructed, gallery-style view of your internal components. The result? A setup that looks as good as it performs.

This case doesn’t just look premium — it’s built to handle your creative workflow with ease:

You get high-end features, elegant design, and an exceptional building experience — without the luxury price tag.

Affordable Design That Doesn’t Compromise

Wood grain cases often come with a premium price tag — but not this time.

Unlike other wood-themed cases that cost double and come with fewer features, the DS900WDE 

delivers premium materials and thoughtful design at an accessible price.

Whether you're an artist, architect, editor, or simply a design-conscious builder, the DS900WDE helps you:

It’s not just about specs — it’s about building a space that inspires.

The DS900WDE is more than just a case — it’s a celebration of creativity, materiality, and form. It invites you to build beautifully, to turn your desktop into décor, and to make your PC a true part of your creative environment.

Available Now in Black / White Ash Wood Variants

Suggested Retail Price: NT$1890 (Black) / NT$1990 (White





Not just a PC case — a centerpiece.

Aesthetic-minded users who believe their desktop setup should be as visually inspiring as the work they produce.



A Statement of Warmth and Clarity







At the heart of the DS900WDE is a bold design philosophy:
Tech should feel human.

With carefully selected real wood grain panels — available in elegant white ash or black walnut — the DS900WDE transforms your build into a decorative centerpiece. This natural texture brings warmth to your workspace, harmonizing with minimal, Nordic, or studio aesthetics.

Complementing the wood accents are dual tempered glass side panels, offering an unobstructed, gallery-style view of your internal components. The result? A setup that looks as good as it performs.



Form, Function, and Affordability







This case doesn’t just look premium — it’s built to handle your creative workflow with ease:





Dual-sided tempered glass for full-view showcase builds



Supports up to ATX motherboards and 425mm GPUs



Integrated GPU holder for safer installations



360mm radiator support for top-tier water cooling



Pre-installed ARGB fans*4 for ambient lighting



USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-C front I/O for high-speed connectivity



Modular fan and dust filters design for easy maintenance

You get high-end features, elegant design, and an exceptional building experience — without the luxury price tag.



Affordable Design That Doesn’t Compromise

Wood grain cases often come with a premium price tag — but not this time.



Unlike other wood-themed cases that cost double and come with fewer features, the DS900WDE delivers premium materials and thoughtful design at an accessible price.



For Creators Who Build Differently

Whether you're an artist, architect, editor, or simply a design-conscious builder, the DS900WDE helps you:





Create a cohesive, inspiring space



Showcase your hardware with style



Match your build to your environment



Build something that feels uniquely yours

It’s not just about specs — it’s about building a space that inspires.



Build a PC That Inspires You

The DS900WDE is more than just a case — it’s a celebration of creativity, materiality, and form. It invites you to build beautifully, to turn your desktop into décor, and to make your PC a true part of your creative environment.



Available Now in Black / White Ash Wood Variants
Suggested Retail Price: NT$1890 (Black) / NT$1990 (White)

The DS900WDE isn’t just made for gaming — it’s made for living.

DS900WDE — For Creators Who Build with Taste

Tech News                                                       

If you’ve been tracking component prices lately, you’ve likely felt the sting: the 32GB DDR5 kit that fit your budget last month has nearly doubled in price. According to 2026 market forecasts, a global shortage of DRAM and NAND Flash chips has pushed pre-built and DIY PC costs up by 8% to 12%.

In this era of "Hardware Inflation," should you bite the bullet and overpay, or is there a smarter way to upgrade? Here is how to navigate the 2026 memory crisis without compromising on your build quality.

This price surge isn't a fluke; it's driven by two massive industry shifts:

When RAM and SSD prices skyrocket, they eat into your total budget, often forcing gamers to settle for a lower-tier GPU—a compromise that directly hurts your gaming experience.

PC Component Price Trends: What Should You Buy Now?

While memory prices are volatile, other critical PC components remain relatively stable. The secret to "Smart Building" in 2026 is prioritizing parts with the longest lifespan and highest price stability.

Instead of overpaying for a mid-range RAM kit, savvy builders are investing in the 

: The Case, The PSU, and The Cooling. These parts don't go obsolete every two years and are currently shielded from the memory price hike.

Future-Proofing Your Build: Focus on Chassis and Power

If your current PC is struggling but you aren't ready to pay the "Memory Tax," the smartest move is to refresh your foundation.

A premium case and power supply can last 5 to 10 years, serving you through multiple CPU and GPU upgrades.

Peripherals: The Highest Return on Investment (ROI)

In 2026, you don't need a new GPU to make your PC feel "new." Sometimes, the most noticeable performance boost comes from what you touch every day.

Conclusion: Don't Let High Prices Compromise Your PC’s Potential

Don't settle for a cheap, suffocating case or a barely-sufficient power supply just to afford overpriced RAM. Invest in high-quality 

 components today to build a rock-solid foundation. By focusing on your case, power, and peripherals, you can enjoy a premium experience now and be ready to drop in that high-speed memory whenever the market stabilizes.





If you’ve been tracking component prices lately, you’ve likely felt the sting: the 32GB DDR5 kit that fit your budget last month has nearly doubled in price. According to 2026 market forecasts, a global shortage of DRAM and NAND Flash chips has pushed pre-built and DIY PC costs up by 8% to 12%.

In this era of "Hardware Inflation," should you bite the bullet and overpay, or is there a smarter way to upgrade? Here is how to navigate the 2026 memory crisis without compromising on your build quality.



Why is PC Hardware So Expensive in 2026?

This price surge isn't a fluke; it's driven by two massive industry shifts:





The AI Infrastructure Demand: Global data centers are hoarding HBM (High Bandwidth Memory), squeezing the production lines of standard DDR5 RAM used by gamers.



The CUDIMM Transition: As manufacturers pivot to the new CUDIMM standard, supply for traditional DDR5 is shrinking, leading to a massive supply-demand imbalance.







When RAM and SSD prices skyrocket, they eat into your total budget, often forcing gamers to settle for a lower-tier GPU—a compromise that directly hurts your gaming experience.



PC Component Price Trends: What Should You Buy Now?

While memory prices are volatile, other critical PC components remain relatively stable. The secret to "Smart Building" in 2026 is prioritizing parts with the longest lifespan and highest price stability.

Instead of overpaying for a mid-range RAM kit, savvy builders are investing in the "Foundational Trio": The Case, The PSU, and The Cooling. These parts don't go obsolete every two years and are currently shielded from the memory price hike.





(darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case)



Future-Proofing Your Build: Focus on Chassis and Power

If your current PC is struggling but you aren't ready to pay the "Memory Tax," the smartest move is to refresh your foundation.



Invest in a High-End PSU and Case

A premium case and power supply can last 5 to 10 years, serving you through multiple CPU and GPU upgrades.





The Power Foundation: With RTX 50-series power demands peaking, a high-quality ATX 3.1 PSU is non-negotiable. The darkFlash PMT Series / PMT Series White Edition offers the stability and native connectors needed for future flagship GPUs, ensuring you won't have to rebuild when memory prices finally drop.



The Thermal Solution: Modern high-density hardware runs hot. A case with superior airflow, like the darkFlash DY460, doesn't just look stunning—it provides the physical cooling needed to extend the lifespan of your current components while you wait for a better time to buy RAM.





(darkFlash PMT Series PSU - White Edition)



Peripherals: The Highest Return on Investment (ROI)

In 2026, you don't need a new GPU to make your PC feel "new." Sometimes, the most noticeable performance boost comes from what you touch every day.





Magnetic Switch Keyboards: Swapping to a darkFlash Magnetic Switch Keyboard provides an immediate upgrade in responsiveness. With features like Rapid Trigger, the tactile improvement in competitive gaming is often more noticeable than a 10 FPS increase from a more expensive graphics card.



Professional Gaming Mice: Upgrading your sensor and skates can refresh your gaming experience for a fraction of the cost of a new SSD.







Conclusion: Don't Let High Prices Compromise Your PC’s Potential





Don't settle for a cheap, suffocating case or a barely-sufficient power supply just to afford overpriced RAM. Invest in high-quality darkFlash components today to build a rock-solid foundation. By focusing on your case, power, and peripherals, you can enjoy a premium experience now and be ready to drop in that high-speed memory whenever the market stabilizes.

Beat the 2026 memory crisis with this smart guide to navigating soaring PC component prices.

The 2026 Memory Crisis: Why PC Prices are Rising and How to Build Smart

Build Guides                                                    

Whether it is the massive RTX 5090 or the efficient 5070, modern GPU coolers have become incredibly dense. 

With power draws pushing limits, the traditional "Front-to-Back" airflow strategy from the 2020s is struggling to keep up. This has made 

 airflow the new standard for high-end builds. But is it just for aesthetics? In this guide, we explain why the RTX 50 series practically 

The Problem with Front Intake: The "90-Degree" Turn

In a standard tower case, fans are usually mounted on the front panel, pushing cool air horizontally.

This setup worked fine for older generations, but it creates a conflict for modern cards like the RTX 5080:

This means your GPU has to fight to "grab" the cool air as it passes by, forcing the airflow to make a sharp 90-degree turn. With the increased thickness of 50-series heatsinks, this turbulence creates dead zones, forcing fans to spin louder just to maintain boost clocks.

Why Direct Cooling Wins: The Physics of Bottom Intake

When you install fans at the bottom of the case, the physics change completely. Bottom fans pull cool air from the lowest point (the coolest air in the room) and push it 

For cards with high power density like the RTX 5090 (which can spike over 500W), this 

 method is superior. Benchmarks show that adding bottom intake fans can lower GPU Core temperatures by 3-5°C, and significantly reduce the critical Hotspot Temperature.

Panoramic Cases: The New Standard for 2025/2026

By now, "Panoramic" or "Dual Chamber" cases (like the 

) are the norm for gaming builds. Since these cases use glass front panels, 

This setup prevents heat pockets from forming around the massive backplates of modern GPUs, ensuring your system performs as good as it looks.

With bottom intake becoming essential, aesthetic standards have also risen. Nobody wants to look at the ugly back frame of a fan on the bottom of their case.

The Solution: darkFlash Reverse Blade Fans To maintain a clean look:

 on the bottom allows you to pull air in (Intake) while showing off the "Infinity Mirror" center and clean RGB blades, keeping your build showcase-ready.





If you have upgraded to the latest RTX 50-series (Blackwell) graphics cards, you know the reality: Performance comes with heat. Whether it is the massive RTX 5090 or the efficient 5070, modern GPU coolers have become incredibly dense. 

With power draws pushing limits, the traditional "Front-to-Back" airflow strategy from the 2020s is struggling to keep up. This has made Bottom Intake airflow the new standard for high-end builds. But is it just for aesthetics? In this guide, we explain why the RTX 50 series practically demands airflow from the floor.



The Problem with Front Intake: The "90-Degree" Turn

In a standard tower case, fans are usually mounted on the front panel, pushing cool air horizontally.

This setup worked fine for older generations, but it creates a conflict for modern cards like the RTX 5080:





The GPU's Flow: The massive GPU fans pull air vertically upwards.



The Case's Flow: Front fans push air horizontally.





(darkFlash DRX70 Mesh ATX PC Case, with mesh front and optional bottom fan mounts)



This means your GPU has to fight to "grab" the cool air as it passes by, forcing the airflow to make a sharp 90-degree turn. With the increased thickness of 50-series heatsinks, this turbulence creates dead zones, forcing fans to spin louder just to maintain boost clocks.



Why Direct Cooling Wins: The Physics of Bottom Intake

When you install fans at the bottom of the case, the physics change completely. Bottom fans pull cool air from the lowest point (the coolest air in the room) and push it vertically upwards.





Zero Resistance: This airflow direction aligns perfectly with your GPU fans.



Instant Access: Cool air travels directly into the GPU heatsink without passing through drive cages or cabling.





(darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case)



For cards with high power density like the RTX 5090 (which can spike over 500W), this "Direct Airflow" method is superior. Benchmarks show that adding bottom intake fans can lower GPU Core temperatures by 3-5°C, and significantly reduce the critical Hotspot Temperature.



Panoramic Cases: The New Standard for 2025/2026

By now, "Panoramic" or "Dual Chamber" cases (like the darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case) are the norm for gaming builds. Since these cases use glass front panels, bottom intake is mandatory.







This design relies on an optimized "Chimney Effect":





Bottom: Forces cold air directly into the GPU.



Side: Supplies fresh air to the CPU and VRMs.



Top: Exhausts all rising heat immediately.

This setup prevents heat pockets from forming around the massive backplates of modern GPUs, ensuring your system performs as good as it looks.



Reverse Blade Fans: Don't Ruin the Look

With bottom intake becoming essential, aesthetic standards have also risen. Nobody wants to look at the ugly back frame of a fan on the bottom of their case.

The Solution: darkFlash Reverse Blade Fans To maintain a clean look:





Normal Blade Fan: Pushes air away from the pretty side.



Reverse Blade Fan: Pulls air through the pretty side.





(Left: Standard bottom fans via Reddit / Right: darkFlash INF34 Reverse Fans)



Using darkFlash Reverse Fans on the bottom allows you to pull air in (Intake) while showing off the "Infinity Mirror" center and clean RGB blades, keeping your build showcase-ready.



Conclusion: Do You Need Bottom Fans?









For Mid-Range GPUs (RTX 5060 / 5060 Ti): Traditional airflow is sufficient, but bottom fans help with noise.



For High-End GPUs (RTX 5070 & Up): Bottom intake is highly recommended. The thermal density of these cards benefits hugely from direct air.



For Glass/Panoramic Cases: Bottom intake is mandatory.

Stop GPU thermal throttling, learn why bottom intake is the new standard for 2026 builds.

Are Bottom Intake Fans Necessary? The Truth About GPU Cooling

Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: 

 air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the 

The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.

Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)

How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.

Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.

(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)

The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

. By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.

The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:

. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way 

 of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The 

’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: Air Pressure. 



Understanding the difference between Positive and Negative air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the darkFlash FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case as our reference case."



The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.



Positive Air Pressure (The Goal)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM (Airflow in) > Total Exhaust CFM (Airflow out).



The Physics: You are forcing more air into the case than the exhaust fans can pull out. This causes the extra air to naturally push out of every tiny crack, gap, and unfiltered vent in your chassis.



The Result: Dust cannot enter through the gaps because air is constantly rushing out of them. As long as your intake fans have dust filters, the inside of your PC stays clean.







Negative Air Pressure (The Dust Magnet)





The Setup: Total Exhaust CFM > Total Intake CFM.



The Physics: Your fans are pumping air out faster than it can get in, creating a vacuum effect.



The Result: Air (and dust) is sucked in through every unfiltered crack, PCIe slots, side panel gaps, and unused ports. This turns your PC into a vacuum cleaner.







Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM slightly > Total Exhaust CFM.



The Physics: This creates a clear airflow path where fresh cool air is forced in, while dedicated exhaust fans actively remove the rising heat. It prevents the "heat soak" that can happen if you only use intake fans.



The Result: The best of both worlds. You maintain the dust-repelling benefits of positive pressure while ensuring your GPU and CPU heat is efficiently ejected from the chassis.







How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.



Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

You want more fans blowing in than blowing out. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.





The "Fish Tank" Solution: On panoramic cases like the darkFlash FLOATRON F1, the front panel is glass, which looks great but blocks front airflow.



The Fix: The FLOATRON F1 features fully open ventilation layout. These allow you to mount high-performance fans (like the darkFlash DM8 LINE) on the side and bottom to pull massive amounts of cold air in.



Pro Tip: Since the FLOATRON F1 comes with dust filters, these intakes will catch the dust before it hits your GPU.





(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)



Step 2: Choose the Right Fan for the Job

Not all fans are created equal.





For Radiators (Top Exhaust): You want fans that can push through resistance.



For Case Intake: You want durability. Since intake fans often fight against dust filters, we recommend Hydro Bearing fans. They offer a longer lifespan (~40,000+ hours) compared to standard sleeve bearings and are whisper-quiet.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE)



Step 3: The "Chimney" Configuration

Heat naturally rises. Work with physics, not against it.





Bottom: INTAKE (Cold air for the GPU).



Side: INTAKE (Fresh air for the Motherboard/CPU).



Top/Rear: EXHAUST (Pushing the hot air out).







The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

The darkFlash FLOATRON F1 solves this with its signature Suspension Design (Floating Base). By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.



The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:





Intake (5 Fans):





Bottom: 3x Fans (The floating base allows maximum air intake directly to the GPU).



Side: 2x Fans (Pulling fresh air for the Motherboard and CPU).



Exhaust (4 Fans):





Top: 3x Fans (Radiator exhaust).



Rear: 1x Fan.

The Math: 5 Intake Fans > 4 Exhaust Fans. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way out of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.







A Final Tip on Maintenance

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The FLOATRON F1’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.

Unlock the secret to a cleaner, cooler gaming rig by mastering the invisible science of positive vs. negative air pressure.

Positive vs. Negative Air Pressure: The Ultimate Guide for Dust Control

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.