How-to Guides                                                   

Choosing a monitor can feel overwhelming — there are so many specs, sizes, and prices. But don't worry: once you understand a few basics, picking the right monitor becomes surprisingly easy.

Below is a simple breakdown of the most important things to know: resolution, panel type, refresh rate, and use-case recommendations.

Resolution is the number of pixels on your screen. More pixels = clearer images.

Panel Types — How the Colors & Viewing Angles Look

Refresh Rate — How Smooth the Motion Feels

[Slow motion] 240Hz vs 144Hz vs 120Hz vs 60Hz - Monitor refresh rates

Screen Size & Ratio — How Much Space You See

Ultrawide monitors provide extra productivity space and a cinematic feel but cost more.

Color Accuracy & HDR — Optional But Nice to Have

If HDR is important, look for at least HDR400 (entry) or HDR600+ (better).

A good monitor depends on what you do. But if you want a simple, no-brainer recommendation:

It offers sharp resolution, smooth gaming, great colors, and excellent value.





Choosing a monitor can feel overwhelming — there are so many specs, sizes, and prices. But don't worry: once you understand a few basics, picking the right monitor becomes surprisingly easy.



Below is a simple breakdown of the most important things to know: resolution, panel type, refresh rate, and use-case recommendations.



Resolution — How Sharp the Image Looks

Resolution is the number of pixels on your screen. More pixels = clearer images.





(Image Credit: LogicalIncrements)


Common monitor resolutions:









Quick Tip: For most people, 1440p provides the best balance between price, performance, and clarity.



Panel Types — How the Colors & Viewing Angles Look

Monitors mainly use IPS, VA, or TN panels. Each has pros and cons.





(Image Credit: BENQ)



IPS (Most Recommended for Most Users)





Best color accuracy



Wide viewing angles



Good for work, gaming, content creation



Downside: Slightly more expensive



VA (Great Contrast, Good for Movies)





Deep blacks and high contrast



Good all-around performance



Downside: Slightly slower response times



TN (Fast & Cheap, but Lower Quality)





Very fast for esports



Cheapest panel type



Downside: Poor color accuracy and viewing angles



Quick Tip: If you don’t know what to choose, IPS is the safest and best choice.



Refresh Rate — How Smooth the Motion Feels

Measured in Hz (Hertz). Higher = smoother.





(Image Credit: [Slow motion] 240Hz vs 144Hz vs 120Hz vs 60Hz - Monitor refresh rates)









Quick Tip: For gaming, always aim for 144Hz or above.



Screen Size & Ratio — How Much Space You See





24"–27" = most common



32" = great for 4K or large desks



21:9 ultrawide = perfect for multitasking and immersive gaming

Ultrawide monitors provide extra productivity space and a cinematic feel but cost more.



Color Accuracy & HDR — Optional But Nice to Have





sRGB coverage matters for normal use



DCI-P3 is better for creative work



HDR (High Dynamic Range) makes colors pop — but only useful on high-brightness panels

If HDR is important, look for at least HDR400 (entry) or HDR600+ (better).



Which Monitor Should You Choose?





For Gaming





1440p + 144Hz



IPS or fast VA



Adaptive Sync (G-Sync / FreeSync)



For Office / Light Use





1080p or 1440p



IPS for comfort



24" or 27"



For Creative Work (Photo / Video)





4K IPS



90–100% DCI-P3



Good color calibration + HDR



For Multitaskers





34" ultrawide (3440×1440)



IPS or VA



Great for productivity



Conclusion

A good monitor depends on what you do. But if you want a simple, no-brainer recommendation:



27" IPS, 1440p, 144Hz is the perfect all-rounder for most users.

It offers sharp resolution, smooth gaming, great colors, and excellent value.





New to PC monitors? This beginner-friendly guide explains everything you need to know.

PC Monitor Buying Guide 2025: Specs, Panels & Refresh Rates Explained

Guias práticos

É a sua primeira vez a utilizar monitores de PC? Este guia para principiantes explica tudo o que precisa de saber.

Guia de compra de monitores para PC em 2025: especificações, painéis e taxas de atualização explicados

The “aquarium-style” PC case trend remains strong, with dual-side panoramic tempered glass panels offering a crystal-clear, high-end aesthetic. However, no matter how stunning the case design is, fingerprints, dust, or even small scratches can instantly dull its premium look.

To keep your case spotless and shining like new, regular and proper cleaning is the key. In this guide, we’ll show you simple yet effective ways to clean and maintain your tempered glass panels — along with a few tricks to prevent scratches — so your build always looks flawless.

 side panels, though some models still use 

Since cleaning may involve removing panels or using cleaning solutions, always 

turn off your PC and disconnect the power cable

 to ensure safety and prevent component damage.

Use a clean microfiber cloth to gently wipe away surface dust.

Avoid using a damp cloth directly — trapped dust can scratch the glass surface.

Step 2｜Apply Cleaner to the Cloth (Not the Glass)

Spray the neutral cleaner onto the cloth instead of directly onto the glass to prevent streaks or residue from forming on the panel.

, following a single direction. Avoid back-and-forth rubbing, which can cause micro-scratches.

For tight corners or edges that collect dust, use a cotton swab or a small piece of cloth for spot cleaning.

Preventing Scratches and Routine Maintenance

 to prevent dust buildup that becomes harder to remove over time.

Avoid removing the glass panel unless necessary. Frequent handling increases the risk of scratches or smudges.

Keep it upright to reduce contact and the chance of scratches.

Proper glass maintenance not only keeps your PC case looking stunning but also enhances its overall professional appearance. By cleaning regularly and wiping correctly, you can prevent dust and scratches from stealing the spotlight from your carefully built masterpiece.





The “aquarium-style” PC case trend remains strong, with dual-side panoramic tempered glass panels offering a crystal-clear, high-end aesthetic. However, no matter how stunning the case design is, fingerprints, dust, or even small scratches can instantly dull its premium look.



To keep your case spotless and shining like new, regular and proper cleaning is the key. In this guide, we’ll show you simple yet effective ways to clean and maintain your tempered glass panels — along with a few tricks to prevent scratches — so your build always looks flawless.



Preparation Before Cleaning





Step 1｜Identify the Material

Most modern PC cases feature tempered glass side panels, though some models still use acrylic.





Tempered Glass: Scratch-resistant, heavier, and will not discolor over time.



Acrylic: Lightweight and low-cost, but more prone to scratching.



Step 2｜Power Down and Unplug

Since cleaning may involve removing panels or using cleaning solutions, always turn off your PC and disconnect the power cable to ensure safety and prevent component damage.



Step 3｜Gather Cleaning Tools

You’ll need:





A microfiber cloth, lens cloth, or screen-cleaning cloth



Neutral detergent (optional) and clean water



A dust blower or anti-static brush



How to Clean Your Glass Panel Properly





Step 1｜Remove Dust with a Dry Cloth

Use a clean microfiber cloth to gently wipe away surface dust.
Avoid using a damp cloth directly — trapped dust can scratch the glass surface.



Step 2｜Apply Cleaner to the Cloth (Not the Glass)

Spray the neutral cleaner onto the cloth instead of directly onto the glass to prevent streaks or residue from forming on the panel.



Step 3｜Wipe in One Direction

Gently wipe from top to bottom or left to right, following a single direction. Avoid back-and-forth rubbing, which can cause micro-scratches.



Step 4｜Detail the Corners

For tight corners or edges that collect dust, use a cotton swab or a small piece of cloth for spot cleaning.



Tip: Never use tissue or paper towels, they can scratch the surface or leave lint behind.



Preventing Scratches and Routine Maintenance





Clean Regularly

Wipe down your case every 3 to 6 months to prevent dust buildup that becomes harder to remove over time.



Minimize Panel Removal

Avoid removing the glass panel unless necessary. Frequent handling increases the risk of scratches or smudges.



Handle Panels Carefully

When removing the glass panel, avoid placing it face-down on any surface.
Keep it upright to reduce contact and the chance of scratches.







Conclusion

Proper glass maintenance not only keeps your PC case looking stunning but also enhances its overall professional appearance. By cleaning regularly and wiping correctly, you can prevent dust and scratches from stealing the spotlight from your carefully built masterpiece.

Tempered glass proper maintenance and scratch prevention tips.

How to Clean Tempered Glass Side Panels?

Dicas para a manutenção adequada e prevenção de riscos no vidro temperado.

Como limpar painéis laterais de vidro temperado?

When building or upgrading a PC, most people focus on GPUs, CPUs, and SSDs — but few realize that PCI Express (PCIe) lanes are the invisible highways that connect these parts together. They determine how fast your GPU communicates with your CPU, how many NVMe SSDs you can use without bottlenecks, and whether your next upgrade will actually perform as expected.

This article breaks down what PCIe lanes are, how they work, what’s new in PCIe Gen4 and Gen5, and how to make smarter choices when planning your system.

A PCIe lane is the fundamental communication channel of the PCI Express interface.

Each lane is made up of two pairs of wires — one pair for transmitting data and another for receiving — which makes PCIe full-duplex (data can flow in both directions at once).

Multiple lanes can be grouped to create wider connections, which you often see labeled as ×1, ×4, ×8, or ×16.

For more info on what is a PCIe Lane, our 

 has a more detailed explanation on the topic.

 Modern systems have two sources of PCIe lanes:

Because chipset lanes share that single DMI link, they can become a bottleneck when multiple high-speed devices — like NVMe SSDs or capture cards — compete for bandwidth.

For example, a typical AMD Ryzen or Intel Core CPU may provide 16–20 direct lanes, usually allocated as:

Everything else — USB controllers, SATA ports, Wi-Fi modules — connects through the chipset’s slower lanes.

Each new PCIe generation doubles the data rate per lane compared to the previous one.

This is why the latest GPUs and SSDs can achieve incredible performance even with fewer allocated lanes.

PCIe Gen5 isn’t just “twice as fast.” It’s also much harder to design for.

At 32 GT/s, every bit of signal loss matters. Motherboard manufacturers must use:

That’s why Gen5 motherboards are more expensive — they need advanced engineering to handle those speeds without data errors.

You won’t “feel” Gen5 speed in everyday tasks unless you’re pushing ultra-high-bandwidth workloads (e.g., 3D rendering, AI training, multi-NVMe RAID). But you will benefit from future-proofing.

Real-World Example: Lane Allocation in Modern CPUs

Let’s visualize a typical setup using a modern Intel or AMD CPU:

├── PCIe x4  → NVMe SSD (M.2 slot)

└── PCIe x4  → Chipset link (DMI / Fabric)

                ├── USB ports

                ├── SATA drives

                ├── Secondary NVMe slots

                └── Network / Wi-Fi cards

When you install a second NVMe drive, your motherboard might share or split lanes — sometimes reducing your GPU from ×16 to ×8. While this doesn’t usually affect gaming performance much (Gen4 ×8 = Gen3 ×16), it’s important to check your motherboard manual to see which slots share bandwidth.

Even with ultra-fast components, bandwidth bottlenecks can occur if you overload the chipset or split CPU lanes inefficiently.

Here’s how lane management affects performance:

Efficient use of CPU lanes ensures each device has a clear, fast path to the processor.

That’s why high-end platforms like AMD Threadripper or Intel Xeon offer 48–128 lanes — perfect for multi-GPU or workstation setups.

The next step, PCIe Gen6, will double speeds again to 64 GT/s per lane using PAM4 (Pulse Amplitude Modulation) signaling — a huge shift in how signals are transmitted.

However, this brings even greater design challenges:

While it may take time before Gen6 reaches consumer PCs, enterprise servers and data centers will adopt it first — paving the way for the next generation of GPUs and SSDs.

PCIe lanes are the circulatory system of your PC — unseen, but vital. Understanding how many lanes your CPU offers, and how they’re allocated, can make the difference between a balanced build and one full of hidden bottlenecks.

As PCIe Gen5 becomes mainstream and Gen6 looms on the horizon, knowing how these lanes work will help you make smarter hardware decisions — whether you’re building a gaming powerhouse, a creative workstation, or a high-speed storage server.





When building or upgrading a PC, most people focus on GPUs, CPUs, and SSDs — but few realize that PCI Express (PCIe) lanes are the invisible highways that connect these parts together. They determine how fast your GPU communicates with your CPU, how many NVMe SSDs you can use without bottlenecks, and whether your next upgrade will actually perform as expected.



This article breaks down what PCIe lanes are, how they work, what’s new in PCIe Gen4 and Gen5, and how to make smarter choices when planning your system.



What Is a PCIe Lane?







A PCIe lane is the fundamental communication channel of the PCI Express interface.
Each lane is made up of two pairs of wires — one pair for transmitting data and another for receiving — which makes PCIe full-duplex (data can flow in both directions at once).



Multiple lanes can be grouped to create wider connections, which you often see labeled as ×1, ×4, ×8, or ×16.





×1: Suitable for small add-in cards like Wi-Fi or capture cards.



×4: Used by NVMe SSDs and M.2 slots.



×16: Dedicated to GPUs for maximum bandwidth.

In short, more lanes = more bandwidth.



For more info on what is a PCIe Lane, our previous article has a more detailed explanation on the topic.



CPU-Supported Lanes vs Chipset Lanes

Not all PCIe lanes are created equal.
 Modern systems have two sources of PCIe lanes:





CPU Lanes: Directly connected to the processor. These offer the lowest latency and highest bandwidth.



Chipset (PCH) Lanes: Routed through the motherboard’s chipset, which connects back to the CPU using a link (called DMI on Intel or Infinity Fabric on AMD).

Because chipset lanes share that single DMI link, they can become a bottleneck when multiple high-speed devices — like NVMe SSDs or capture cards — compete for bandwidth.

For example, a typical AMD Ryzen or Intel Core CPU may provide 16–20 direct lanes, usually allocated as:





16 lanes for the GPU (x16 slot)



4 lanes for the main NVMe SSD



The rest used for the chipset link

Everything else — USB controllers, SATA ports, Wi-Fi modules — connects through the chipset’s slower lanes.



PCIe Generations and Their Speeds

Each new PCIe generation doubles the data rate per lane compared to the previous one.
Let’s look at the numbers:







(GT/s = gigatransfers per second)

In simple terms:





A PCIe Gen4 ×8 slot is about as fast as a Gen3 ×16 slot.



A Gen5 ×8 slot already exceeds Gen4 ×16 speeds — meaning even fewer lanes can deliver massive throughput.


This is why the latest GPUs and SSDs can achieve incredible performance even with fewer allocated lanes.



PCIe Gen4 vs Gen5: The Engineering Leap

PCIe Gen5 isn’t just “twice as fast.” It’s also much harder to design for.

At 32 GT/s, every bit of signal loss matters. Motherboard manufacturers must use:





High-grade PCB materials (low-loss laminates)



Shorter trace lengths



Redrivers or Retimers to maintain signal integrity



Precise impedance control during routing

That’s why Gen5 motherboards are more expensive — they need advanced engineering to handle those speeds without data errors.



For PC builders, the takeaway is this:

You won’t “feel” Gen5 speed in everyday tasks unless you’re pushing ultra-high-bandwidth workloads (e.g., 3D rendering, AI training, multi-NVMe RAID). But you will benefit from future-proofing.



Real-World Example: Lane Allocation in Modern CPUs

Let’s visualize a typical setup using a modern Intel or AMD CPU:

[CPU]

│

├── PCIe x16 → GPU

├── PCIe x4  → NVMe SSD (M.2 slot)

└── PCIe x4  → Chipset link (DMI / Fabric)

                │

                ├── USB ports

                ├── SATA drives

                ├── Secondary NVMe slots

                └── Network / Wi-Fi cards



When you install a second NVMe drive, your motherboard might share or split lanes — sometimes reducing your GPU from ×16 to ×8. While this doesn’t usually affect gaming performance much (Gen4 ×8 = Gen3 ×16), it’s important to check your motherboard manual to see which slots share bandwidth.



Why PCIe Lanes Matter

Even with ultra-fast components, bandwidth bottlenecks can occur if you overload the chipset or split CPU lanes inefficiently.

Here’s how lane management affects performance:





GPU bandwidth: Critical for rendering and compute tasks.



Storage bandwidth: Impacts NVMe SSD transfer rates, especially in RAID.



Add-in cards: Capture cards, NICs, and accelerators can easily saturate chipset lanes.

Efficient use of CPU lanes ensures each device has a clear, fast path to the processor.
That’s why high-end platforms like AMD Threadripper or Intel Xeon offer 48–128 lanes — perfect for multi-GPU or workstation setups.



Future Outlook: PCIe Gen6 and Beyond

The next step, PCIe Gen6, will double speeds again to 64 GT/s per lane using PAM4 (Pulse Amplitude Modulation) signaling — a huge shift in how signals are transmitted.

However, this brings even greater design challenges:





Higher power consumption



More expensive PCB materials



Increased need for error correction (FLIT encoding)


While it may take time before Gen6 reaches consumer PCs, enterprise servers and data centers will adopt it first — paving the way for the next generation of GPUs and SSDs.



Practical Tips for PC Builders





Check lane sharing: Before buying your motherboard, verify which M.2 slots or PCIe slots share lanes with your GPU.



Use CPU lanes for critical devices: Your GPU and main NVMe drive should always occupy CPU-direct lanes.



Don’t obsess over Gen5 (yet): Unless your workload is heavily I/O-bound, Gen4 offers plenty of bandwidth.



Future-proof smartly: Choose a motherboard that supports both Gen4 and Gen5 — it ensures compatibility for years to come.



Balance cooling and bandwidth: High-speed PCIe devices generate extra heat; good airflow and heatsinks are essential.


Conclusion

PCIe lanes are the circulatory system of your PC — unseen, but vital. Understanding how many lanes your CPU offers, and how they’re allocated, can make the difference between a balanced build and one full of hidden bottlenecks.

As PCIe Gen5 becomes mainstream and Gen6 looms on the horizon, knowing how these lanes work will help you make smarter hardware decisions — whether you’re building a gaming powerhouse, a creative workstation, or a high-speed storage server.




PCIe lanes are the hidden highways connecting your CPU, GPU, and SSDs. Learn how CPU lanes differ from chipset lanes, why PCIe Gen5 doubles your bandwidth, and how to design a balanced, bottleneck-free PC build.

Understanding PCIe Lanes: The Hidden Highways of Your PC

As linhas PCIe são as vias ocultas que ligam o seu CPU, GPU e SSDs. Aprenda como as linhas da CPU diferem das linhas do chipset, porque é que o PCIe Gen5 duplica a sua largura de banda e como conceber um PC equilibrado e sem estrangulamentos.

Compreender as vias PCIe: as autoestradas ocultas do seu PC

When you buy a new set of RAM, you might notice a sticker showing “DDR5-6000 CL36” or something similar. But when you first install the memory, your BIOS often defaults to a much slower speed—like DDR5-4800. That’s because memory doesn’t automatically run at its advertised speed; instead, you need to enable a memory profile.

Let’s break down the most common ones: X.M.P, DOCP, EXPO, and A-XMP.

If you’re on Intel, X.M.P is the standard.

Think of DOCP as an AMD bridge for X.M.P RAM.

EXPO (Extended Profiles for Overclocking)

If you’re on socket AM5 (e.g. Ryzen 7000) or newer, EXPO RAM kits are the best choice.

It’s basically MSI’s naming convention for the same goal: running X.M.P RAM on AMD.

Memory overclocking depends on the CPU’s IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) and motherboard quality. Not every chip can handle ultra-fast kits (e.g., DDR5-7200), even if the RAM supports it. Always check the QVL (Qualified Vendor List) of your motherboard before buying.





When you buy a new set of RAM, you might notice a sticker showing “DDR5-6000 CL36” or something similar. But when you first install the memory, your BIOS often defaults to a much slower speed—like DDR5-4800. That’s because memory doesn’t automatically run at its advertised speed; instead, you need to enable a memory profile.

Let’s break down the most common ones: X.M.P, DOCP, EXPO, and A-XMP.



Why Memory Profiles Exist











Modern DDR4 and DDR5 memory modules ship with multiple timing tables stored in their SPD (Serial Presence Detect) chip.



By default, the motherboard uses JEDEC (JEDEC Solid State Technology Association) standard speeds (safe, widely compatible).



To achieve the advertised speed and latency, you need to load the manufacturer-tested performance profile.

This is where these acronyms come in.



X.M.P (Extreme Memory Profile)











Origin: Developed by Intel.



Function: Provides pre-tested overclocking settings (frequency, voltage, timings).



Platform: Works natively on Intel motherboards (Z-series, B-series, etc.).



Example: A DDR5-6000 kit with X.M.P can be enabled in BIOS with one click, instantly boosting performance beyond JEDEC defaults.

If you’re on Intel, X.M.P is the standard.



DOCP (Direct Over Clock Profile)











Origin: Created by ASUS for AMD platforms.



Function: Essentially “translates” Intel’s X.M.P profile into AMD-readable settings.



Platform: Found mostly on ASUS AMD motherboards.



Why It Exists: Before AMD had its own standard, DOCP was the workaround to make Intel-optimized RAM profiles usable.

Think of DOCP as an AMD bridge for X.M.P RAM.



EXPO (Extended Profiles for Overclocking)











Origin: Developed by AMD, launched alongside DDR5.



Function: Like X.M.P, but optimized for AMD Ryzen CPUs.



Platform: Supported by most modern AMD AM5 motherboards.



Key Difference: EXPO often provides two profiles (performance + stability) and is tested for Ryzen’s memory controller and Infinity Fabric.



Marketing Angle: AMD positions EXPO as an “open standard” (in contrast to Intel’s licensed X.M.P).

If you’re on socket AM5 (e.g. Ryzen 7000) or newer, EXPO RAM kits are the best choice.



A-XMP











Origin: MSI’s branding for AMD motherboards.



Function: Similar to DOCP—lets you enable Intel X.M.P profiles on AMD boards.



Platform: MSI AMD boards (e.g., B550, X570).

It’s basically MSI’s naming convention for the same goal: running X.M.P RAM on AMD.



Which Should You Use?





Intel users: Always enable X.M.P in BIOS.



AMD Ryzen 5000 (DDR4): Look for DOCP/A-XMP to unlock X.M.P kits.



AMD Ryzen 7000 (DDR5): Choose EXPO-certified kits for the smoothest experience.



Final Note

Memory overclocking depends on the CPU’s IMC (Integrated Memory Controller) and motherboard quality. Not every chip can handle ultra-fast kits (e.g., DDR5-7200), even if the RAM supports it. Always check the QVL (Qualified Vendor List) of your motherboard before buying.

This guide explains what each memory profile means, how they differ across Intel and AMD platforms, and which one you should enable to unlock your RAM’s full speed.

XMP vs. DOCP vs. EXPO vs. A-XMP Explained: Unlock Your RAM’s Full Speed with the Right Memory Profile

Este guia explica o significado de cada perfil de memória, como diferem entre as plataformas Intel e AMD e qual deve ativar para libertar toda a velocidade da sua RAM.

XMP vs. DOCP vs. EXPO vs. A-XMP: Liberte toda a velocidade da sua RAM com o perfil de memória certo.

When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the 

. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.

The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector

The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation





When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the motherboard’s front panel header. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.







PWR LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matters.



The cable will be labeled PLED+ and PLED- or similar.



Align PLED+ with the motherboard’s PWR_LED+ pin, and PLED- with PWR_LED-.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector



PWR_SW (Power Switch)

Function:
The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Simply connect the two-pin PWR SW cable to the PWR_SW pins.



RESET (Reset Switch)

Function:
The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Connect the RESET SW cable to the RESET pins.



HDD LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matter.



The connector is labeled HDD LED+ and HDD LED-.



Align the positive wire (often colored) with HDD_LED+, and the negative (often black or white) with HDD_LED-.



SPEAKER

Function:
The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

Connection:





This connector is usually a 4-pin block from the case speaker.



Match it with the SPEAKER pins on the header.



How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation











Most motherboards print + and - signs next to the LED pins.



Positive wires are usually labeled with a small arrow one the rear side if the connector.



The motherboard manual will have a detailed pinout diagram — always check it if unsure.



Final Tips





Handle with care — These pins are delicate; use minimal force when connecting.



Double-check before powering on — Incorrect polarity for LEDs won’t damage anything but will prevent lights from working.



Consult your motherboard manual for the exact pin layout.

Explaining each of these front panel header pins, what they do, and how to connect them correctly

Understanding Motherboard Front Panel Header Pins and How to Connect Them

Explicando cada um destes pinos do conector do painel frontal, a sua função e como os ligar corretamente.

Compreender os pinos do conector do painel frontal da motherboard e como ligá-los.

Building a gaming PC means paying attention to every component – including the power supply. In recent years, Intel released new ATX power supply standards (ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1) to accommodate the increasing power demands of modern hardware. This article breaks down the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 in a beginner-friendly way, focusing on practical implications for PC builders and gamers. We’ll cover what changed in the 

limits differ, and what it means for choosing a PSU.

ATX 3.0 is a major update to the long-standing ATX power supply design guide, released by Intel in 2022. It was developed in response to new generations of GPUs and CPUs that can draw significantly more power, with rapid spikes in consumption. ATX 3.0 introduced new guidelines to ensure PSUs can deliver these power spikes reliably, and it also brought in a new high-power connector (the 12VHPWR) for next-gen graphics cards. For PC builders, ATX 3.0 PSUs marked a big step forward from earlier ATX 2.x units, especially if you plan to use high-end GPUs like NVIDIA’s RTX 5000 series.

ATX 3.1, released in 2023, is a refinement of the 3.0 standard. It builds on the same features but includes some tweaks based on industry feedback and new PCI-SIG updates. While not a revolutionary jump, ATX 3.1 updated certain technical specifications – notably the 

 (Previously Known as 12VHPWR) connector design and the transient power excursion requirements – to improve safety and performance. For the average gamer or builder, an ATX 3.1 PSU is largely similar to ATX 3.0, but with a bit more polish on these key aspects.

The 12VHPWR Connector: Updates from ATX 3.0 to 3.1

One of the headline features of ATX 3.0 was the introduction of the 12VHPWR connector (sometimes called the “PCIe 5.0 16-pin” power connector). This 12+4 pin connector can supply up to 600 Watts to a graphics card over a single cable – a big improvement over the older 8-pin (150 W) connectors. The extra 4 pins are sense wires that communicate with the GPU, allowing it to know the power capacity available (e.g. 150W, 300W, 450W, or 600W depending on cable/PSU). In practice, this meant ATX 3.0 PSUs could ship with a single native cable for high-end GPUs (no more multiple daisy-chained 8-pins or adapter dongles), simplifying cable management for builders.

ATX 3.1 keeps the that same connector, but incorporates an updated design as defined by PCI-SIG. Often referred to as the 

connector, the revised connector has subtle mechanical improvements to enhance safety. For example, the sense-pin configuration and pin length were adjusted to ensure the GPU can detect a proper full insertion of the plug (reducing the chance of the connector not being fully seated – a known issue that led to some melting connectors in early RTX 4090 usage). In short, ATX 3.1’s power connector is the same shape and pin-count, but built to a refined standard: if you buy an ATX 3.1 PSU, its 12VHPWR cable will adhere to the latest PCIe spec for better contact and durability.

↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from 

From a builder’s perspective, both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 PSUs will support the latest GPUs with the 12VHPWR or 12V2x6. There’s no difference in how you plug in your card – they are cross-compatible. The advantage of ATX 3.1’s version is simply added reliability. If you already have an ATX 3.0 PSU with a 12VHPWR and use it correctly (fully seated cable, not bending it too sharply, etc.), you’re generally fine. But ATX 3.1 gives extra peace of mind that the connector meets the newest safety refinements from PCI-SIG.

Transient Power Excursions: Handling Spikes in Power

Aside from the physical connector, the most important updates are in how these standards handle transient power excursions – in simpler terms, sudden power spikes. Modern GPUs and CPUs can momentarily draw far more than their average power (for example, a 300W TDP GPU might spike to 450–600W for a few milliseconds when under a sudden heavy load). If a PSU can’t handle these surges, your system could become unstable or shut down unexpectedly.

ATX 3.0 set a new requirement that power supplies be able to accommodate extreme spikes without issue. Intel’s ATX 3.0 design guide specifies that a compliant PSU must handle power excursions up to 200% of its rated power for very short durations. It also lays out specific timing brackets – for instance (simplified for clarity): up to ~120% load for tens of milliseconds, ~160–180% for a few milliseconds, and ~200% for microseconds. This was a big change from earlier ATX 2.x units, which weren’t explicitly designed for such high surges. In practical terms, an ATX 3.0 750 W PSU could briefly supply up to ~1500 W in a spike, and a 1200 W PSU could handle almost 2400 W in a microsecond-scale transient. This ensures GPUs like the RTX 30/40/50 series, which are known for transient spikes, won’t overwhelm the PSU and cause shutdowns as long as the PSU is ATX 3.0 compliant.

ATX 3.1 refines these power excursion limits. According to Intel’s updated 3.1 specification, the allowable transient overshoot levels were adjusted slightly. The changes are technical, but essentially Intel fine-tuned how much over current and for how long a PSU must supply power. For example, ATX 3.1 might require sustaining 200% load for a slightly shorter duration than 3.0 did, or define additional tiers for intermediate spike durations. These tweaks align with data collected from real-world GPU behavior and testing feedback. The practical implication is that ATX 3.1 PSUs are even less likely to trip OCP/OPP (over-current/over-power protection) during sudden bursts, compared to ATX 3.0 units. They have been tested to handle transients with an extra margin of stability.

For PC builders, if you’re running power-hungry GPUs or doing extreme overclocking, these transient handling improvements mean 

fewer chances of a random reboot when your GPU spikes to full load

. ATX 3.0 already made great strides here, and ATX 3.1 polishes it further. That said, in normal gaming usage, you might not notice a difference – both standards are designed to handle GPU/CPU spikes that previous generation PSUs might not tolerate. It’s mainly an assurance of stability under extreme conditions.

Other Notable Differences and Similarities

Beyond the connector and transient power requirements, ATX 3.0 and 3.1 share most features. Both maintain the standard ATX PSU dimensions and mounting, the typical 24-pin motherboard connector, CPU EPS 8-pin connectors, SATA, etc. They also both coexist with ATX12VO (a separate, optional standard focusing on single-rail 12V-only PSUs for better efficiency). If you’re building a typical gaming PC, you’ll likely use a multi-rail ATX 3.x PSU (which provides 12V, 5V, 3.3V rails in the traditional way).

Here’s a summary comparison of the two standards:

Table: Comparing key aspects of ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 power supply standards.

As shown above, the differences are not dramatic – ATX 3.1 mainly fine-tunes what ATX 3.0 introduced. Both standards require high efficiency (with ATX 80 Plus certifications typically applied separately) and support new “low-power sleep” states and modern standby features on motherboards (helpful for reducing idle power draw). ATX 3.1 may incorporate slightly updated requirements for those as well, though those changes are minor for end-users.

Practical Implications for PC Builders & Gamers

So, what does all this mean when you’re shopping for or building a gaming PC?

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 ultimately comes down to evolution, not revolution. ATX 3.0 brought huge improvements for powering today’s power-hungry GPUs and CPUs, and 

 those improvements. The main practical takeaways are the support for the 12V2x6(12VHPWR) high-power GPU connector and strong handling of transient surges – both critical for high-end gaming rigs. ATX 3.1 

 of the connector and adds even more resilience to sudden power spikes, benefiting extreme use cases and further safeguarding against power-related crashes.

For most PC builders and gamers, both standards will serve you well. If you’re on the cutting edge, ATX 3.1 offers peace of mind that you have the latest spec. Otherwise, an ATX 3.0 PSU from a reputable brand already covers the vast majority of needs for current and upcoming hardware. In either case, these standards represent a positive development: they are ensuring that PSUs keep up with the fast pace of GPU and CPU advancements, delivering stable and safe power for your gaming adventures.





Building a gaming PC means paying attention to every component – including the power supply. In recent years, Intel released new ATX power supply standards (ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1) to accommodate the increasing power demands of modern hardware. This article breaks down the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 in a beginner-friendly way, focusing on practical implications for PC builders and gamers. We’ll cover what changed in the 12V-2x6 connector, how transient power excursion limits differ, and what it means for choosing a PSU.



Introduction to ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1

ATX 3.0 is a major update to the long-standing ATX power supply design guide, released by Intel in 2022. It was developed in response to new generations of GPUs and CPUs that can draw significantly more power, with rapid spikes in consumption. ATX 3.0 introduced new guidelines to ensure PSUs can deliver these power spikes reliably, and it also brought in a new high-power connector (the 12VHPWR) for next-gen graphics cards. For PC builders, ATX 3.0 PSUs marked a big step forward from earlier ATX 2.x units, especially if you plan to use high-end GPUs like NVIDIA’s RTX 5000 series.



ATX 3.1, released in 2023, is a refinement of the 3.0 standard. It builds on the same features but includes some tweaks based on industry feedback and new PCI-SIG updates. While not a revolutionary jump, ATX 3.1 updated certain technical specifications – notably the 12V-2x6 (Previously Known as 12VHPWR) connector design and the transient power excursion requirements – to improve safety and performance. For the average gamer or builder, an ATX 3.1 PSU is largely similar to ATX 3.0, but with a bit more polish on these key aspects.



The 12VHPWR Connector: Updates from ATX 3.0 to 3.1

One of the headline features of ATX 3.0 was the introduction of the 12VHPWR connector (sometimes called the “PCIe 5.0 16-pin” power connector). This 12+4 pin connector can supply up to 600 Watts to a graphics card over a single cable – a big improvement over the older 8-pin (150 W) connectors. The extra 4 pins are sense wires that communicate with the GPU, allowing it to know the power capacity available (e.g. 150W, 300W, 450W, or 600W depending on cable/PSU). In practice, this meant ATX 3.0 PSUs could ship with a single native cable for high-end GPUs (no more multiple daisy-chained 8-pins or adapter dongles), simplifying cable management for builders.



ATX 3.1 keeps the that same connector, but incorporates an updated design as defined by PCI-SIG. Often referred to as the 12V-2x6 connector, the revised connector has subtle mechanical improvements to enhance safety. For example, the sense-pin configuration and pin length were adjusted to ensure the GPU can detect a proper full insertion of the plug (reducing the chance of the connector not being fully seated – a known issue that led to some melting connectors in early RTX 4090 usage). In short, ATX 3.1’s power connector is the same shape and pin-count, but built to a refined standard: if you buy an ATX 3.1 PSU, its 12VHPWR cable will adhere to the latest PCIe spec for better contact and durability.





↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from reddit, r/nvidia)



From a builder’s perspective, both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 PSUs will support the latest GPUs with the 12VHPWR or 12V2x6. There’s no difference in how you plug in your card – they are cross-compatible. The advantage of ATX 3.1’s version is simply added reliability. If you already have an ATX 3.0 PSU with a 12VHPWR and use it correctly (fully seated cable, not bending it too sharply, etc.), you’re generally fine. But ATX 3.1 gives extra peace of mind that the connector meets the newest safety refinements from PCI-SIG.



Transient Power Excursions: Handling Spikes in Power

Aside from the physical connector, the most important updates are in how these standards handle transient power excursions – in simpler terms, sudden power spikes. Modern GPUs and CPUs can momentarily draw far more than their average power (for example, a 300W TDP GPU might spike to 450–600W for a few milliseconds when under a sudden heavy load). If a PSU can’t handle these surges, your system could become unstable or shut down unexpectedly.



ATX 3.0 set a new requirement that power supplies be able to accommodate extreme spikes without issue. Intel’s ATX 3.0 design guide specifies that a compliant PSU must handle power excursions up to 200% of its rated power for very short durations. It also lays out specific timing brackets – for instance (simplified for clarity): up to ~120% load for tens of milliseconds, ~160–180% for a few milliseconds, and ~200% for microseconds. This was a big change from earlier ATX 2.x units, which weren’t explicitly designed for such high surges. In practical terms, an ATX 3.0 750 W PSU could briefly supply up to ~1500 W in a spike, and a 1200 W PSU could handle almost 2400 W in a microsecond-scale transient. This ensures GPUs like the RTX 30/40/50 series, which are known for transient spikes, won’t overwhelm the PSU and cause shutdowns as long as the PSU is ATX 3.0 compliant.



ATX 3.1 refines these power excursion limits. According to Intel’s updated 3.1 specification, the allowable transient overshoot levels were adjusted slightly. The changes are technical, but essentially Intel fine-tuned how much over current and for how long a PSU must supply power. For example, ATX 3.1 might require sustaining 200% load for a slightly shorter duration than 3.0 did, or define additional tiers for intermediate spike durations. These tweaks align with data collected from real-world GPU behavior and testing feedback. The practical implication is that ATX 3.1 PSUs are even less likely to trip OCP/OPP (over-current/over-power protection) during sudden bursts, compared to ATX 3.0 units. They have been tested to handle transients with an extra margin of stability.



For PC builders, if you’re running power-hungry GPUs or doing extreme overclocking, these transient handling improvements mean fewer chances of a random reboot when your GPU spikes to full load. ATX 3.0 already made great strides here, and ATX 3.1 polishes it further. That said, in normal gaming usage, you might not notice a difference – both standards are designed to handle GPU/CPU spikes that previous generation PSUs might not tolerate. It’s mainly an assurance of stability under extreme conditions.



Other Notable Differences and Similarities

Beyond the connector and transient power requirements, ATX 3.0 and 3.1 share most features. Both maintain the standard ATX PSU dimensions and mounting, the typical 24-pin motherboard connector, CPU EPS 8-pin connectors, SATA, etc. They also both coexist with ATX12VO (a separate, optional standard focusing on single-rail 12V-only PSUs for better efficiency). If you’re building a typical gaming PC, you’ll likely use a multi-rail ATX 3.x PSU (which provides 12V, 5V, 3.3V rails in the traditional way).



Here’s a summary comparison of the two standards:







Table: Comparing key aspects of ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 power supply standards.



As shown above, the differences are not dramatic – ATX 3.1 mainly fine-tunes what ATX 3.0 introduced. Both standards require high efficiency (with ATX 80 Plus certifications typically applied separately) and support new “low-power sleep” states and modern standby features on motherboards (helpful for reducing idle power draw). ATX 3.1 may incorporate slightly updated requirements for those as well, though those changes are minor for end-users.



Practical Implications for PC Builders & Gamers

So, what does all this mean when you’re shopping for or building a gaming PC?





Future-Proofing for GPUs: If you plan to use or upgrade to a high-end graphics card, you’ll want at least an ATX 3.0 PSU. It will have the right cable (12VHPWR) out of the box and can handle the card’s power swings. An ATX 3.1 PSU gives you that plus the latest connector improvements. For example, builders using an RTX 5090 or upcoming next-gen GPUs can plug straight into a native 16-pin cable and trust their PSU to handle sudden spikes in wattage.



Stability Under Peak Loads: If you’ve ever had your PC reset when launching a game or benchmark, a likely cause is the PSU failing to meet a transient spike. ATX 3.0/3.1 units are specifically designed to prevent that. This means more stable performance in scenarios like VR gameplay, intensive ray tracing, or CPU stress tests, where power demand can jump instantaneously. ATX 3.1’s refinements further reduce the odds of tripping protections during these spikes.



Connector Safety: The updated 12VHPWR design under ATX 3.1 mitigates issues that early adopters encountered (like the melting connector problem from not fully plugging in the cable). As a gamer or builder, you should still always ensure the 16-pin plug is fully seated on your GPU and avoid bending the cable too close to the connector. But ATX 3.1 cables will be a bit more foolproof by design. Manufacturers also often include better quality 12VHPWR cables in newer PSUs, sometimes with 90-degree adapters or sturdier plugs.



Do You Need to Upgrade? If you already own a good ATX 3.0 PSU, you likely don’t need to rush out for ATX 3.1. The differences are incremental. However, if you’re buying a new PSU in 2025, check the specs – you might find some units labeled as ATX 3.1. Choosing one will give you the slight edge of the latest standard. 



Compatibility: Both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 are fully backward-compatible. They will work with any standard ATX motherboard and PC components. They simply add capabilities. For instance, you can use an ATX 3.0 PSU on an older PC build – it will perform like a high-quality ATX 2.x unit, just with extra connectors (you don’t have to use the 12VHPWR cable if your GPU doesn’t need it). Similarly, an ATX 3.1 PSU will work in any scenario an ATX 3.0 PSU would.



Conclusion

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 ultimately comes down to evolution, not revolution. ATX 3.0 brought huge improvements for powering today’s power-hungry GPUs and CPUs, and ATX 3.1 fine-tuned those improvements. The main practical takeaways are the support for the 12V2x6(12VHPWR) high-power GPU connector and strong handling of transient surges – both critical for high-end gaming rigs. ATX 3.1 improves the reliability of the connector and adds even more resilience to sudden power spikes, benefiting extreme use cases and further safeguarding against power-related crashes.



For most PC builders and gamers, both standards will serve you well. If you’re on the cutting edge, ATX 3.1 offers peace of mind that you have the latest spec. Otherwise, an ATX 3.0 PSU from a reputable brand already covers the vast majority of needs for current and upcoming hardware. In either case, these standards represent a positive development: they are ensuring that PSUs keep up with the fast pace of GPU and CPU advancements, delivering stable and safe power for your gaming adventures.

A beginner-friendly article that clearly explains the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 standards, with a focus on real-world implications for PC users and builders.

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 The Most Comprehensive Explanation That You Will Ever Need

Um artigo para principiantes que explica claramente as diferenças entre as normas ATX 3.0 e ATX 3.1, com foco nas implicações práticas para utilizadores e montadores de PCs.

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1: A explicação mais completa que alguma vez precisará.

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

Parte 2 de uma série de duas partes que o ajudarão a dominar o layout da sua motherboard e a montar o seu computador com confiança.

Como ler uma motherboard (Parte 2): Portas de E/S, conectores de alimentação e conectores de ventoinha

 of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.

In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the 

 of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.

Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.

This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.

 You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.

Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.

These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.

Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).

PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More

These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 

 Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.

Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.

 Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.





The motherboard is the central nervous system of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.


In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the essential parts of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.



Form Factor – The First Thing to Know

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.





Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.



CPU Socket – The Master Mind





This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.





Intel: LGA 1851, LGA 1700, etc. (pins are on the motherboard)



AMD: AM4, AM5 (pins are on the CPU)

Beware: You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.
Tips: Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.



RAM Slots – Memory Matters





These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.





Labeled as DIMM1, DIMM2, etc.



Usually 2 or 4 slots depending on board size



Only supports DDR4 or DDR5 (not both!)

Tips: Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).



PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More





These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 



Tips: Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.



M.2 and SATA – Storage Interfaces





Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.



M.2 Slots (for NVMe or SATA SSDs):





Typically located between PCIe slots



Look for labels like M.2_1, M.2_2



May need to remove a heatsink

SATA Ports (for 2.5" SSDs, HDDs):





Usually 4–6 L-shaped connectors on the edge

Tips: Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.



What's Next?

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.

Part 1 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 1): CPU, RAM, and Expansion Slots Explained

Parte 1 de uma série de duas partes que o ajudará a dominar o layout da sua motherboard e a montar o seu PC com confiança.

Como Ler uma Motherboard (Parte 1): Explicação sobre CPU, RAM e Slots de Expansão

 starts making a gurgling, bubbling, or sloshing noise, don’t panic. This is usually caused by trapped air in the loop, which can reduce cooling performance and increase noise.

In this guide, we’ll explain what causes bubbling sounds in a liquid CPU cooler and how to fix them step by step—so your PC stays cool and quiet.

Why Does My AIO Cooler Make a Bubbling or Gurgling Noise?

How to Fix Bubbling Noise in an AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

not positioned at the highest point of the loop

. Ideally, the radiator should be mounted higher than the pump so that any air collects in the radiator and doesn’t damage the pump.

Slowly tilt your PC case left and right to help dislodge air bubbles stuck in the tubing. This encourages the bubbles to move to the radiator, where they won’t interfere with the pump.

Use your cooler’s software to set the pump speed to 100% and let it run for 30–60 minutes. This increases fluid pressure in the loop and helps push out trapped air.

Step 4: Rotate the Case to Different Angles

If the bubbling noise persists, try rotating your case about 45 degrees in various directions. This can help release stubborn bubbles that haven’t yet settled.

⚠️ Pro Tip: Since these steps involve moving the PC, it’s a good idea to remove heavy components like the GPU and mechanical hard drives to avoid damage during handling.

What If the Bubbling Noise Doesn’t Stop?

If the noise continues even after these steps, your AIO cooler may have shipped with excess air or developed a leak. Contact the manufacturer’s support for further assistance or to request a replacement.





If your AIO liquid cooler starts making a gurgling, bubbling, or sloshing noise, don’t panic. This is usually caused by trapped air in the loop, which can reduce cooling performance and increase noise.

In this guide, we’ll explain what causes bubbling sounds in a liquid CPU cooler and how to fix them step by step—so your PC stays cool and quiet.



Why Does My AIO Cooler Make a Bubbling or Gurgling Noise?





Designed air pockets: AIO (all-in-one) liquid coolers are shipped with a small amount of air in the system to allow for thermal expansion and prevent hose damage.



Coolant evaporation over time: As you use your PC, a small amount of coolant can evaporate, increasing the amount of air in the loop and causing the familiar gurgling or sloshing sound when the pump runs.



How to Fix Bubbling Noise in an AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Step 1: Check the Pump Installation

Ensure that the pump is not positioned at the highest point of the loop. Ideally, the radiator should be mounted higher than the pump so that any air collects in the radiator and doesn’t damage the pump.







Related Guide:





Step 2: Gently Tilt the PC Case

Slowly tilt your PC case left and right to help dislodge air bubbles stuck in the tubing. This encourages the bubbles to move to the radiator, where they won’t interfere with the pump.







Step 3: Run the Pump at Maximum RPM

Use your cooler’s software to set the pump speed to 100% and let it run for 30–60 minutes. This increases fluid pressure in the loop and helps push out trapped air.







Step 4: Rotate the Case to Different Angles

If the bubbling noise persists, try rotating your case about 45 degrees in various directions. This can help release stubborn bubbles that haven’t yet settled.



⚠️ Pro Tip: Since these steps involve moving the PC, it’s a good idea to remove heavy components like the GPU and mechanical hard drives to avoid damage during handling.



What If the Bubbling Noise Doesn’t Stop?

If the noise continues even after these steps, your AIO cooler may have shipped with excess air or developed a leak. Contact the manufacturer’s support for further assistance or to request a replacement.





(Video guide courtesy of CORSAIR LAB)

How to fix AIO cooler bubbling noise and keep your PC cool and quiet.

How to Fix AIO Liquid Cooler Bubbling or Gurgling Noise

Como resolver o problema do ruído de borbulhamento do cooler AIO e manter o seu PC frio e silencioso.