Build Guides                                                    

Whether it is the massive RTX 5090 or the efficient 5070, modern GPU coolers have become incredibly dense. 

With power draws pushing limits, the traditional "Front-to-Back" airflow strategy from the 2020s is struggling to keep up. This has made 

 airflow the new standard for high-end builds. But is it just for aesthetics? In this guide, we explain why the RTX 50 series practically 

The Problem with Front Intake: The "90-Degree" Turn

In a standard tower case, fans are usually mounted on the front panel, pushing cool air horizontally.

This setup worked fine for older generations, but it creates a conflict for modern cards like the RTX 5080:

This means your GPU has to fight to "grab" the cool air as it passes by, forcing the airflow to make a sharp 90-degree turn. With the increased thickness of 50-series heatsinks, this turbulence creates dead zones, forcing fans to spin louder just to maintain boost clocks.

Why Direct Cooling Wins: The Physics of Bottom Intake

When you install fans at the bottom of the case, the physics change completely. Bottom fans pull cool air from the lowest point (the coolest air in the room) and push it 

For cards with high power density like the RTX 5090 (which can spike over 500W), this 

 method is superior. Benchmarks show that adding bottom intake fans can lower GPU Core temperatures by 3-5°C, and significantly reduce the critical Hotspot Temperature.

Panoramic Cases: The New Standard for 2025/2026

By now, "Panoramic" or "Dual Chamber" cases (like the 

) are the norm for gaming builds. Since these cases use glass front panels, 

This setup prevents heat pockets from forming around the massive backplates of modern GPUs, ensuring your system performs as good as it looks.

With bottom intake becoming essential, aesthetic standards have also risen. Nobody wants to look at the ugly back frame of a fan on the bottom of their case.

The Solution: darkFlash Reverse Blade Fans To maintain a clean look:

 on the bottom allows you to pull air in (Intake) while showing off the "Infinity Mirror" center and clean RGB blades, keeping your build showcase-ready.





If you have upgraded to the latest RTX 50-series (Blackwell) graphics cards, you know the reality: Performance comes with heat. Whether it is the massive RTX 5090 or the efficient 5070, modern GPU coolers have become incredibly dense. 

With power draws pushing limits, the traditional "Front-to-Back" airflow strategy from the 2020s is struggling to keep up. This has made Bottom Intake airflow the new standard for high-end builds. But is it just for aesthetics? In this guide, we explain why the RTX 50 series practically demands airflow from the floor.



The Problem with Front Intake: The "90-Degree" Turn

In a standard tower case, fans are usually mounted on the front panel, pushing cool air horizontally.

This setup worked fine for older generations, but it creates a conflict for modern cards like the RTX 5080:





The GPU's Flow: The massive GPU fans pull air vertically upwards.



The Case's Flow: Front fans push air horizontally.





(darkFlash DRX70 Mesh ATX PC Case, with mesh front and optional bottom fan mounts)



This means your GPU has to fight to "grab" the cool air as it passes by, forcing the airflow to make a sharp 90-degree turn. With the increased thickness of 50-series heatsinks, this turbulence creates dead zones, forcing fans to spin louder just to maintain boost clocks.



Why Direct Cooling Wins: The Physics of Bottom Intake

When you install fans at the bottom of the case, the physics change completely. Bottom fans pull cool air from the lowest point (the coolest air in the room) and push it vertically upwards.





Zero Resistance: This airflow direction aligns perfectly with your GPU fans.



Instant Access: Cool air travels directly into the GPU heatsink without passing through drive cages or cabling.





(darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case)



For cards with high power density like the RTX 5090 (which can spike over 500W), this "Direct Airflow" method is superior. Benchmarks show that adding bottom intake fans can lower GPU Core temperatures by 3-5°C, and significantly reduce the critical Hotspot Temperature.



Panoramic Cases: The New Standard for 2025/2026

By now, "Panoramic" or "Dual Chamber" cases (like the darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case) are the norm for gaming builds. Since these cases use glass front panels, bottom intake is mandatory.







This design relies on an optimized "Chimney Effect":





Bottom: Forces cold air directly into the GPU.



Side: Supplies fresh air to the CPU and VRMs.



Top: Exhausts all rising heat immediately.

This setup prevents heat pockets from forming around the massive backplates of modern GPUs, ensuring your system performs as good as it looks.



Reverse Blade Fans: Don't Ruin the Look

With bottom intake becoming essential, aesthetic standards have also risen. Nobody wants to look at the ugly back frame of a fan on the bottom of their case.

The Solution: darkFlash Reverse Blade Fans To maintain a clean look:





Normal Blade Fan: Pushes air away from the pretty side.



Reverse Blade Fan: Pulls air through the pretty side.





(Left: Standard bottom fans via Reddit / Right: darkFlash INF34 Reverse Fans)



Using darkFlash Reverse Fans on the bottom allows you to pull air in (Intake) while showing off the "Infinity Mirror" center and clean RGB blades, keeping your build showcase-ready.



Conclusion: Do You Need Bottom Fans?









For Mid-Range GPUs (RTX 5060 / 5060 Ti): Traditional airflow is sufficient, but bottom fans help with noise.



For High-End GPUs (RTX 5070 & Up): Bottom intake is highly recommended. The thermal density of these cards benefits hugely from direct air.



For Glass/Panoramic Cases: Bottom intake is mandatory.

Stop GPU thermal throttling, learn why bottom intake is the new standard for 2026 builds.

Are Bottom Intake Fans Necessary? The Truth About GPU Cooling

빌드 가이드

GPU 온도 저하 현상을 해결하고, 2026년 PC 조립에서 하단 흡기 방식이 새로운 표준이 되는 이유를 알아보세요.

하단 흡기 팬은 필수일까요? GPU 냉각에 대한 진실

Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: 

 air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the 

The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.

Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)

How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.

Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.

(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)

The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

. By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.

The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:

. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way 

 of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The 

’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: Air Pressure. 



Understanding the difference between Positive and Negative air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the darkFlash FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case as our reference case."



The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.



Positive Air Pressure (The Goal)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM (Airflow in) > Total Exhaust CFM (Airflow out).



The Physics: You are forcing more air into the case than the exhaust fans can pull out. This causes the extra air to naturally push out of every tiny crack, gap, and unfiltered vent in your chassis.



The Result: Dust cannot enter through the gaps because air is constantly rushing out of them. As long as your intake fans have dust filters, the inside of your PC stays clean.







Negative Air Pressure (The Dust Magnet)





The Setup: Total Exhaust CFM > Total Intake CFM.



The Physics: Your fans are pumping air out faster than it can get in, creating a vacuum effect.



The Result: Air (and dust) is sucked in through every unfiltered crack, PCIe slots, side panel gaps, and unused ports. This turns your PC into a vacuum cleaner.







Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM slightly > Total Exhaust CFM.



The Physics: This creates a clear airflow path where fresh cool air is forced in, while dedicated exhaust fans actively remove the rising heat. It prevents the "heat soak" that can happen if you only use intake fans.



The Result: The best of both worlds. You maintain the dust-repelling benefits of positive pressure while ensuring your GPU and CPU heat is efficiently ejected from the chassis.







How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.



Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

You want more fans blowing in than blowing out. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.





The "Fish Tank" Solution: On panoramic cases like the darkFlash FLOATRON F1, the front panel is glass, which looks great but blocks front airflow.



The Fix: The FLOATRON F1 features fully open ventilation layout. These allow you to mount high-performance fans (like the darkFlash DM8 LINE) on the side and bottom to pull massive amounts of cold air in.



Pro Tip: Since the FLOATRON F1 comes with dust filters, these intakes will catch the dust before it hits your GPU.





(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)



Step 2: Choose the Right Fan for the Job

Not all fans are created equal.





For Radiators (Top Exhaust): You want fans that can push through resistance.



For Case Intake: You want durability. Since intake fans often fight against dust filters, we recommend Hydro Bearing fans. They offer a longer lifespan (~40,000+ hours) compared to standard sleeve bearings and are whisper-quiet.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE)



Step 3: The "Chimney" Configuration

Heat naturally rises. Work with physics, not against it.





Bottom: INTAKE (Cold air for the GPU).



Side: INTAKE (Fresh air for the Motherboard/CPU).



Top/Rear: EXHAUST (Pushing the hot air out).







The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

The darkFlash FLOATRON F1 solves this with its signature Suspension Design (Floating Base). By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.



The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:





Intake (5 Fans):





Bottom: 3x Fans (The floating base allows maximum air intake directly to the GPU).



Side: 2x Fans (Pulling fresh air for the Motherboard and CPU).



Exhaust (4 Fans):





Top: 3x Fans (Radiator exhaust).



Rear: 1x Fan.

The Math: 5 Intake Fans > 4 Exhaust Fans. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way out of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.







A Final Tip on Maintenance

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The FLOATRON F1’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.

Unlock the secret to a cleaner, cooler gaming rig by mastering the invisible science of positive vs. negative air pressure.

Positive vs. Negative Air Pressure: The Ultimate Guide for Dust Control

더욱 깨끗하고 시원한 게이밍 PC 환경을 위한 비결을 알아보세요. 바로 양압과 음압의 미묘한 과학적 원리를 이해하는 것입니다.

양압 vs. 음압: 먼지 제어를 위한 완벽 가이드

When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: 

Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings

 to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.

Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.

 of a sleeve bearing with a significantly 

. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.

Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.

Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.

Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?

The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.

 offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.





When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: The Bearing Type.

In this guide, we will compare Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.



Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.





(darkFlash INF34 ARGB PWM Cooling Fan)



The Pros

It combines the silence of a sleeve bearing with a significantly longer lifespan. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.



The Cons

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.



Lifespan

Good (~40,000 to 50,000+ hours).



Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.







The Pros

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.



The Cons

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.



Lifespan

Shortest (~30,000 to 40,000 hours).



Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.







The Pros

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.



The Cons

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.



Lifespan

Long (~50,000 to 70,000 hours).



Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?





The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.





Ball and Hydro Bearings are not affected by gravity. You can mount them vertically (front panel) or horizontally (top/bottom panel) without affecting their lifespan.



Sleeve Bearings hate being mounted horizontally (e.g., at the top of your case blowing air up). Gravity causes the oil to pool on one side, leading to uneven wear and rapid failure.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE ARGB PWM Cooling Fan, on FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case)





Pro Tip: If you are installing fans on the top radiator of your case, avoid cheap Sleeve bearings. Opt for Hydro bearings to ensure they last.



Conclusion

For most PC gamers and builders, Hydro (or Rifle) Bearing fans offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.

Before you buy your next fan, discover the critical difference between Hydro, Sleeve, and Ball bearings.

PC Fan Bearings Explained: Hydro, Sleeve, or Ball – Which Should You Choose?

새 선풍기를 구매하기 전에 하이드로 베어링, 슬리브 베어링, 볼 베어링의 중요한 차이점을 알아보세요.

PC 팬 베어링 설명: 유압식, 슬리브식, 볼식 중 어떤 것을 선택해야 할까요?

Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: 

Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.

The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.

5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.

If you remove your cooler for any reason, 

 replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.

CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

 is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.

Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.

(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: 

Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.

 in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 

, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: Thermal Paste. 



Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.



The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.





Standard Thermal Paste: Every 2 to 3 years.



High-Performance / Premium Paste: Every 3 to 5 years.



Factory-Applied Paste (Pre-built PCs/Laptops): Often lower quality, recommended to replace after 2 years.

Why the difference? 

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.







5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:



Rising Idle Temperatures

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.



Sudden Fan Noise

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.



Thermal Throttling

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.



System Crashes

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.



Visual Inspection

If you remove your cooler for any reason, always replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.







CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

Replacing thermal paste on a CPU is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

However, repasting a GPU is a different beast:



Warranty Risks

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.



Complexity

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.



Direct Die Contact

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.



Our Advice

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.







Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:



Drying Out

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.



The Pump-Out Effect

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.





(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: CPU Ninja)



Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:



Clean the Old Paste

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.







Apply the Right Amount

You don't need much. A pea-sized dot in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.







Mount Pressure

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)



Pro Tip: 

Even the best CPU Cooler or AIO Liquid Cooler cannot perform well if the thermal paste is dry.



Conclusion

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 2 to 3 years, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)

If your PC is running hotter or louder than usual, it might be time to replace your thermal paste.

How Often Should You Replace Thermal Paste? The Ultimate Guide for CPUs and GPUs

PC의 온도가 평소보다 높거나 소음이 심하다면 써멀 페이스트를 교체해야 할 때일 수 있습니다.

써멀 페이스트는 얼마나 자주 교체해야 할까요? CPU와 GPU를 위한 완벽 가이드

When building a PC, one of the most important yet confusing steps is connecting the Power Supply Unit (PSU). The PSU sends power to every component in your system — from your motherboard and CPU to your GPU and drives.

In this guide, we’ll use the darkFlash PMT Series PSU — known for its modular design, high efficiency, and clean cable layout — as a real example to show you where every cable goes and what each one does.

2. CPU 4+4-Pin Connector – Powering the Processor

Delivers power directly to your CPU for stable operation.

The 4+4-pin (EPS) cable from your PSU goes into labeled 

 socket at the top-left corner of your motherboard.

3. SATA Power Connector – For Storage & Accessories

Powers SATA-based storage drives and accessories, such as:

The flat, L-shaped SATA connector plugs into the side of drives or accessories.

4. Molex Connector – For Legacy Devices

Supplies 12V power to older devices or certain accessories (like some LED strips or fan hubs).

If your accessories use Molex, connect them to the Molex chain cable from your PMT PSU. Otherwise, you can leave this cable unused.

5. PCIe 6+2-Pin Connector – For Your Graphics Card

. Modern GPUs demand a lot of power, often requiring multiple connectors.

Connect the 6+2-pin PCIe cable(s) from the PSU to your GPU’s power input(s). You can use:

6. 12V-2×6 Connector – For Next-Gen GPUs

This next-generation connector (also called 12VHPWR) delivers up to 600 W through one compact 16-pin plug.

Connect it to your GPU's 16-pin port until you hear a click. Ensure the plug is fully seated to prevent heat buildup.

Connecting your PSU correctly is crucial for both performance and safety. Every plug has its purpose — once you understand what each does, building and upgrading your PC becomes easy and enjoyable. 

Take your time, check your manuals, and make sure every click counts.





When building a PC, one of the most important yet confusing steps is connecting the Power Supply Unit (PSU). The PSU sends power to every component in your system — from your motherboard and CPU to your GPU and drives.



In this guide, we’ll use the darkFlash PMT Series PSU — known for its modular design, high efficiency, and clean cable layout — as a real example to show you where every cable goes and what each one does.



1. 24-Pin ATX Main Connector





Purpose

Supplies power to the motherboard.


Where it goes

Right edge of the motherboard.





Tip 1: Modern boards use a 24-pin connector, but older ones may use 20-pin. The extra 4 pins are backward-compatible.

Tip 2: The cable is keyed to fit one way. Make sure it clicks securely into place.



2. CPU 4+4-Pin Connector – Powering the Processor





Purpose

Delivers power directly to your CPU for stable operation.



Where to Plug

The 4+4-pin (EPS) cable from your PSU goes into labeled CPU_PWR or ATX12 socket at the top-left corner of your motherboard.





Tip: Some motherboards may require additional 4pin or 4+4 pin connector. 

Tip: Be careful not to confuse it with PCIe cables — the pin layout is different even though they look similar.



3. SATA Power Connector – For Storage & Accessories





Purpose

Powers SATA-based storage drives and accessories, such as:





SSDs / HDDs



Fan or ARGB controllers



AIO pumps



Where to Plug

The flat, L-shaped SATA connector plugs into the side of drives or accessories.





Tip: Each SATA cable usually has 3–4 connectors, allowing you to chain multiple devices.



4. Molex Connector – For Legacy Devices





Purpose

Supplies 12V power to older devices or certain accessories (like some LED strips or fan hubs).



Where to Plug

If your accessories use Molex, connect them to the Molex chain cable from your PMT PSU. Otherwise, you can leave this cable unused.





Tip: Align the connector carefully — the pins are rigid and can bend if forced.



5. PCIe 6+2-Pin Connector – For Your Graphics Card





Purpose

Provides power to your GPU. The PCI Express (PCIe) connector powers your GPU (graphics card). Modern GPUs demand a lot of power, often requiring multiple connectors.



Where to Plug

Connect the 6+2-pin PCIe cable(s) from the PSU to your GPU’s power input(s). You can use:





1× 8-pin for entry GPUs



2× 8-pin for mid-range



3× 8-pin or 12V-2×6 for high-end models





Tip: Always use PCIe/VGA-labeled cables, not CPU ones.



6. 12V-2×6 Connector – For Next-Gen GPUs





Purpose

This next-generation connector (also called 12VHPWR) delivers up to 600 W through one compact 16-pin plug.



Where to Plug

Connect it to your GPU's 16-pin port until you hear a click. Ensure the plug is fully seated to prevent heat buildup.





Tip: If your GPU uses an adapter (e.g., 3× 8-pin to 12V-2×6), make sure all cables are plugged directly into the PSU — avoid daisy-chaining for high-power cards.



Pro Tips from darkFlash









Use modular PSUs to connect only what you need.



Route cables behind the motherboard tray for better airflow.



Double-check all connections before turning on your PC.



If you hear no fan spin or lights, recheck the 24-pin and CPU connectors first.



Final Thoughts





Connecting your PSU correctly is crucial for both performance and safety. Every plug has its purpose — once you understand what each does, building and upgrading your PC becomes easy and enjoyable. 

Take your time, check your manuals, and make sure every click counts.

Learn how to connect your PC PSU correctly!

How to Properly Plug In Your PC Power Supply (PSU)

PC 파워서플라이(PSU)를 올바르게 연결하는 방법을 알아보세요!

PC 전원 공급 장치(PSU)를 올바르게 연결하는 방법

When shopping for PC fans, you’ll often come across connectors that are either 

. If you don’t fully understand the difference, you might end up with a fan that your motherboard can’t properly control, or find yourself confused about where to plug it in during installation.

This guide will quickly walk you through the differences between 3-pin and 4-pin connectors, explain their functions, and help you decide which type of fan is the better choice for your build.

How to Tell the Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

It’s actually very simple to distinguish between them. Here are two easy methods:

Look at the fan’s packaging or user manual:

The Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

These are entry-level fans. The motherboard adjusts the fan speed by changing the voltage, but the level of control is quite limited.

These include an extra control wire that delivers precise PWM signals. This allows the fan to automatically adjust its speed based on system temperature. PWM fans generally provide faster response, smoother control, and quieter operation.

Can I Plug a 3-Pin Fan Into a 4-Pin Header?

Yes, you can. A 3-pin fan will work in a 4-pin motherboard header, but it will run only at full speed and won’t support PWM speed control.

if you’re a performance-focused gamer or power user who values cooling efficiency, quiet operation, and fast thermal response. With PWM functionality, these fans automatically adjust speed for the perfect balance of performance and noise.

if you’re more budget-conscious and your system doesn’t generate heavy heat loads. For basic case airflow, 3-pin fans are a cost-effective and perfectly adequate choice.

In the end, it comes down to your needs—different systems call for different solutions. Picking the right type ensures you’ll get the most efficient cooling setup for your PC.





When shopping for PC fans, you’ll often come across connectors that are either 3-pin or 4-pin. If you don’t fully understand the difference, you might end up with a fan that your motherboard can’t properly control, or find yourself confused about where to plug it in during installation.



This guide will quickly walk you through the differences between 3-pin and 4-pin connectors, explain their functions, and help you decide which type of fan is the better choice for your build.



How to Tell the Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

It’s actually very simple to distinguish between them. Here are two easy methods:



Method 1 | Metal Pins





3-pin fans: three metal pins for ground, power, and RPM feedback.



4-pin fans: include an extra pin for PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) control.







Method 2 | Check the Product Specs

Look at the fan’s packaging or user manual:





If you see PWM mentioned → it’s a 4-pin fan.



If it only says DC Fan or doesn’t mention PWM → it’s a 3-pin fan.



↑ INF34 Cooling Fan clearly states it uses a 4-pin PWM cable





↑ C7A Cooling Fan comes with a 3-pin cable



The Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

3-Pin Fans

These are entry-level fans. The motherboard adjusts the fan speed by changing the voltage, but the level of control is quite limited.



4-Pin Fans (PWM Fans)

These include an extra control wire that delivers precise PWM signals. This allows the fan to automatically adjust its speed based on system temperature. PWM fans generally provide faster response, smoother control, and quieter operation.







Can I Plug a 3-Pin Fan Into a 4-Pin Header?

Yes, you can. A 3-pin fan will work in a 4-pin motherboard header, but it will run only at full speed and won’t support PWM speed control.







Should I Choose a 3-Pin or 4-Pin Fan?

Choose 4-Pin Fans 

if you’re a performance-focused gamer or power user who values cooling efficiency, quiet operation, and fast thermal response. With PWM functionality, these fans automatically adjust speed for the perfect balance of performance and noise.



Choose 3-Pin Fans 

if you’re more budget-conscious and your system doesn’t generate heavy heat loads. For basic case airflow, 3-pin fans are a cost-effective and perfectly adequate choice.







In the end, it comes down to your needs—different systems call for different solutions. Picking the right type ensures you’ll get the most efficient cooling setup for your PC.

Choosing between 3-pin and 4-pin fans comes down to simplicity versus precise control.

How to Choose a PC Fan? 3-Pin vs. 4-Pin Explained

3핀 팬과 4핀 팬 중 어떤 것을 선택할지는 단순성과 정밀한 제어 중 무엇을 선택할지에 달려 있습니다.

PC 팬 고르는 방법? 3핀 vs. 4핀 비교 설명

When people talk about upgrading RAM, the first questions are usually: 

But there’s another factor that gets thrown around a lot—RAM speed, often listed as 3200 MHz, 5600 MHz, 6400 MHz, and beyond.So what exactly does that number mean, and how much does it actually affect real-world performance? Let’s break it down.

, tells you how many cycles of data the memory can handle per second. Higher numbers equal more potential bandwidth.

But speed is only one piece of the puzzle. Memory performance depends on three things working together:

All three determine how responsive your system feels.

, improving efficiency when handling multiple tasks at once.

A common trap is assuming that higher MHz automatically equals better performance. In reality, you also have to consider 

, which measures the delay before memory responds to a request.

Even though DDR5 has a higher latency number, its much faster clock speed offsets this. What really matters is true latency in nanoseconds, calculated as:

This is why DDR5, despite higher CL, still outperforms DDR4 in most cases.

What RAM Speed Should You Choose in 2025?

Just remember: your CPU and motherboard must support the speeds you are aiming for. Always check the 





When people talk about upgrading RAM, the first questions are usually: How many gigabytes do I need? and Should I run single or dual-channel?


But there’s another factor that gets thrown around a lot—RAM speed, often listed as 3200 MHz, 5600 MHz, 6400 MHz, and beyond.So what exactly does that number mean, and how much does it actually affect real-world performance? Let’s break it down.



What RAM Speed Actually Means

RAM speed, or frequency, tells you how many cycles of data the memory can handle per second. Higher numbers equal more potential bandwidth.

But speed is only one piece of the puzzle. Memory performance depends on three things working together:





Capacity (GB) → How much data can be stored



Channels (single, dual, quad) → How many lanes data can travel across



Frequency (MHz) → How fast those lanes can move data

All three determine how responsive your system feels.







Does Faster RAM Make Your PC Faster?

The short answer: sometimes, but not always.











Gaming: In most AAA titles, faster RAM might improve FPS by just a few percent. But in competitive eSports games, like CS2 or Valorant, higher speeds can help maintain smoother frame delivery at high refresh rates.



Content creation: Video editing, 3D rendering, and large simulations benefit more from the extra bandwidth.



Everyday use: Faster RAM makes little difference when browsing or running basic apps, but it can reduce stutter when multitasking heavily.



DDR4 vs. DDR5: How the Numbers Compare

DDR4





Common speeds: 2133–3600 MHz



High-end kits can push past 4600 MHz

DDR5





Starts at 4800 MHz by default



Mainstream kits: 5600–6400 MHz



Premium kits already exceed 8000 MHz





(DDR5 Overview, Kingston)



Beyond raw speed, DDR5 also brings dual 32-bit sub-channels per DIMM, improving efficiency when handling multiple tasks at once.



Speed vs. Latency: The Balancing Act

A common trap is assuming that higher MHz automatically equals better performance. In reality, you also have to consider CAS Latency (CL), which measures the delay before memory responds to a request.







For example:





DDR4-3200 CL16



DDR5-6000 CL40

Even though DDR5 has a higher latency number, its much faster clock speed offsets this. What really matters is true latency in nanoseconds, calculated as:

True Latency = (CL ÷ Frequency) × 2000

This is why DDR5, despite higher CL, still outperforms DDR4 in most cases.







What RAM Speed Should You Choose in 2025?





Everyday users: DDR4-3200 or DDR5-5600 is more than enough.



Gamers: DDR4-3600 or DDR5-6000–6400 hits the sweet spot for most modern builds.



Content creators and professionals: High-frequency, low-latency kits provide real benefits in editing, rendering, and workstation workloads.

Just remember: your CPU and motherboard must support the speeds you are aiming for. Always check the QVL (Qualified Vendor List) for compatibility.

What really affects RAM speed? Let’s break it down in simple terms.

RAM Speed Explained: How Much Does Frequency Affect Performance?

실제로 RAM 속도에 영향을 미치는 요소는 무엇일까요? 간단하게 살펴보겠습니다.

RAM 속도 설명: 주파수는 성능에 얼마나 영향을 미칠까요?

When choosing RAM for a PC build, capacity usually gets the most attention—whether you need 16GB, 32GB, or more. But the way that RAM is configured also matters. Most consumer systems support 

Dual-channel RAM isn’t about adding more gigabytes—it’s about doubling the available bandwidth. With two identical sticks working together, your system can move twice as much data at the same time, reducing wait times and improving overall responsiveness.

Your motherboard must support dual-channel memory. Almost every modern board does, but it’s worth checking the specifications just to be sure.

GIGABYTE X870E AORUS XTREME AI TOP Motherboard

For dual-channel to work, the two sticks need to match. That means the same capacity (8GB + 8GB, 16GB + 16GB), the same frequency, and ideally the same brand and model. Using a pre-packaged RAM kit is the easiest way to guarantee compatibility.

Most motherboards have four RAM slots, but only certain pairings enable dual-channel. 

Always follow the diagram in your motherboard manual.

Does Dual-Channel Make a Difference in Games?

The answer depends on the game. Memory bandwidth matters more in some scenarios than others.

In other words, single-channel RAM is still capable of running modern games at smooth frame rates. But if you want to push performance further or reduce system latency, dual-channel provides an advantage.

(Gaming Performance: Single vs. Dual-Channel RAM, 

Single-channel memory will get the job done for everyday tasks, but dual-channel gives your system more bandwidth to breathe. 

For most new PC builds in 2025, dual-channel is worth it, especially since the cost difference is usually minimal.





When choosing RAM for a PC build, capacity usually gets the most attention—whether you need 16GB, 32GB, or more. But the way that RAM is configured also matters. Most consumer systems support single-channel or dual-channel memory setups.



Dual-channel RAM isn’t about adding more gigabytes—it’s about doubling the available bandwidth. With two identical sticks working together, your system can move twice as much data at the same time, reducing wait times and improving overall responsiveness.



How to Run RAM in Dual-Channel Mode

Motherboard support

Your motherboard must support dual-channel memory. Almost every modern board does, but it’s worth checking the specifications just to be sure.





(GIGABYTE X870E AORUS XTREME AI TOP Motherboard)



Matching RAM kits

For dual-channel to work, the two sticks need to match. That means the same capacity (8GB + 8GB, 16GB + 16GB), the same frequency, and ideally the same brand and model. Using a pre-packaged RAM kit is the easiest way to guarantee compatibility.







Correct slot placement

Most motherboards have four RAM slots, but only certain pairings enable dual-channel. 

Always follow the diagram in your motherboard manual.









Does Dual-Channel Make a Difference in Games?

The answer depends on the game. Memory bandwidth matters more in some scenarios than others.





Memory-sensitive titles like Fortnite or GTA V can see performance gains of 10% or more when switching from single- to dual-channel.



Less demanding games such as Modern Warfare 2 or F1 22 show little difference, often under 2%.

In other words, single-channel RAM is still capable of running modern games at smooth frame rates. But if you want to push performance further or reduce system latency, dual-channel provides an advantage.





(Gaming Performance: Single vs. Dual-Channel RAM, ProYamYamPC)



Which Should You Choose?





Single-channel: Fine for light use like browsing, streaming, and office work.



Dual-channel: Recommended for gamers, content creators, and multitaskers who want every bit of performance.







Final Thoughts

Single-channel memory will get the job done for everyday tasks, but dual-channel gives your system more bandwidth to breathe. 

For most new PC builds in 2025, dual-channel is worth it, especially since the cost difference is usually minimal.





This guide breaks down single vs. dual-channel RAM, how it works, and the real impact on gaming and everyday performance.

Single vs. Dual-Channel RAM: What's the Difference and Which One Should You Choose?

이 가이드에서는 싱글 채널 RAM과 듀얼 채널 RAM의 차이점, 작동 방식, 그리고 게임 및 일상 성능에 미치는 실제 영향에 대해 자세히 설명합니다.

싱글 채널 RAM과 듀얼 채널 RAM의 차이점은 무엇이며, 어떤 것을 선택해야 할까요?

When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 

 you should always check before making a decision.

By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.





When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 



In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 9 essential specs you should always check before making a decision.



1. Supported Motherboard Sizes





Common form factors include E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX.



If you plan to upgrade in the future, it’s safer to choose a case that supports at least ATX motherboards.







2. Maximum GPU Length





High-end triple-fan GPUs usually range from 310 mm to 360 mm, while dual-fan GPUs are closer to 260 mm.



Always confirm your GPU length and check if HDD cages or front fans might block installation.







3. CPU Cooler Height Clearance





For air coolers, make sure the case supports the required height (commonly 155–170 mm).



With smaller cases, cooler clearance becomes even more critical.





(darkFlash Storm Z4 Pro Mist Tower CPU Cooler, Height: 155 mm)



4. Liquid Cooling Support





Check if the case supports 240 mm, 280 mm, or 360 mm radiators, and where they can be mounted (top, front, or side).



Also consider radiator thickness—some may interfere with RAM clearance.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler, Radiator: 360 mm)



5. Fan Support (Quantity & Size)





Confirm whether the case supports 120 mm and/or 140 mm fans, and the maximum number of fans you can install.



Check if fans are included by default, and whether a fan hub or controller is supported.





(darkFlash DY470 ATX PC Case)



6. Storage Expansion





Look for the number of drive bays available for 3.5" HDDs and 2.5" SSDs.



If you plan on adding more hard drives later, make sure the case has enough slots.







7. PCIe Expansion Slots





Cases with too few slots may prevent you from installing wider GPUs or may restrict airflow.



If you plan on using a vertical GPU mount, check whether the case includes the bracket and PCIe riser support.







8. Front I/O Ports





Most cases include power/reset buttons, audio jacks, and USB ports.



If you frequently use external devices, choose a case with USB 3.0 or Type-C for faster transfers.







9. PSU Shroud Space





Standard PSUs are typically 160 mm to 220 mm long.



Confirm that your case has enough space for the PSU, plus room for cable management.





(darkFlash PMT Series White Edition PSU)



By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.

Check these 9 key specs to make sure your build is future-proof.

9 Key Expansion Specs You Must Check Before Buying a PC Case

향후에도 문제없이 사용할 수 있도록 시스템을 구축하려면 다음 9가지 핵심 사양을 확인하세요.

PC 케이스 구매 전 반드시 확인해야 할 9가지 핵심 확장 사양

현대 게임과 컴퓨터 DIY에 열정을 가진 다크플래시는 PC 케이스, CPU 쿨러, 케이스 팬, 심지어 게이밍 의자와 테이블까지 직접 조립하고 사용하며 최고급 사양의 뛰어난 제품을 개발하는 데 끊임없이 노력해 온 것을 자랑스럽게 생각합니다.

저희의 목표는 모든 사용자가 만족할 수 있는 최고의 제품을 만드는 것입니다.

다크플래시

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.