Build Guides                                                    

Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: 

 air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the 

The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.

Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)

How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.

Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.

(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)

The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

. By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.

The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:

. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way 

 of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The 

’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: Air Pressure. 



Understanding the difference between Positive and Negative air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the darkFlash FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case as our reference case."



The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.



Positive Air Pressure (The Goal)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM (Airflow in) > Total Exhaust CFM (Airflow out).



The Physics: You are forcing more air into the case than the exhaust fans can pull out. This causes the extra air to naturally push out of every tiny crack, gap, and unfiltered vent in your chassis.



The Result: Dust cannot enter through the gaps because air is constantly rushing out of them. As long as your intake fans have dust filters, the inside of your PC stays clean.







Negative Air Pressure (The Dust Magnet)





The Setup: Total Exhaust CFM > Total Intake CFM.



The Physics: Your fans are pumping air out faster than it can get in, creating a vacuum effect.



The Result: Air (and dust) is sucked in through every unfiltered crack, PCIe slots, side panel gaps, and unused ports. This turns your PC into a vacuum cleaner.







Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM slightly > Total Exhaust CFM.



The Physics: This creates a clear airflow path where fresh cool air is forced in, while dedicated exhaust fans actively remove the rising heat. It prevents the "heat soak" that can happen if you only use intake fans.



The Result: The best of both worlds. You maintain the dust-repelling benefits of positive pressure while ensuring your GPU and CPU heat is efficiently ejected from the chassis.







How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.



Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

You want more fans blowing in than blowing out. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.





The "Fish Tank" Solution: On panoramic cases like the darkFlash FLOATRON F1, the front panel is glass, which looks great but blocks front airflow.



The Fix: The FLOATRON F1 features fully open ventilation layout. These allow you to mount high-performance fans (like the darkFlash DM8 LINE) on the side and bottom to pull massive amounts of cold air in.



Pro Tip: Since the FLOATRON F1 comes with dust filters, these intakes will catch the dust before it hits your GPU.





(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)



Step 2: Choose the Right Fan for the Job

Not all fans are created equal.





For Radiators (Top Exhaust): You want fans that can push through resistance.



For Case Intake: You want durability. Since intake fans often fight against dust filters, we recommend Hydro Bearing fans. They offer a longer lifespan (~40,000+ hours) compared to standard sleeve bearings and are whisper-quiet.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE)



Step 3: The "Chimney" Configuration

Heat naturally rises. Work with physics, not against it.





Bottom: INTAKE (Cold air for the GPU).



Side: INTAKE (Fresh air for the Motherboard/CPU).



Top/Rear: EXHAUST (Pushing the hot air out).







The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

The darkFlash FLOATRON F1 solves this with its signature Suspension Design (Floating Base). By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.



The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:





Intake (5 Fans):





Bottom: 3x Fans (The floating base allows maximum air intake directly to the GPU).



Side: 2x Fans (Pulling fresh air for the Motherboard and CPU).



Exhaust (4 Fans):





Top: 3x Fans (Radiator exhaust).



Rear: 1x Fan.

The Math: 5 Intake Fans > 4 Exhaust Fans. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way out of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.







A Final Tip on Maintenance

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The FLOATRON F1’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.

Unlock the secret to a cleaner, cooler gaming rig by mastering the invisible science of positive vs. negative air pressure.

Positive vs. Negative Air Pressure: The Ultimate Guide for Dust Control

Hardware Tips                                                   

Few things are more frustrating than watching your FPS suddenly dip while you are in the middle of a game. Your system seems fine, temps look normal, but the frame rate just drops out of nowhere. These unexpected FPS drops are extremely common, and there are several real reasons behind them.

High Temperatures Causing Thermal Throttling

The number-one cause of sudden FPS drops is excessive heat. When your CPU or GPU gets too hot, it automatically reduces its clock speed to protect itself, leading to instant performance loss.

, featuring louver side panel on PSU Chamber)

Running out of VRAM can cause instant FPS drops. When VRAM is full, the GPU is forced to offload data to system RAM, which is much slower.

Sometimes your game is not the problem. Windows or other apps may be taking CPU, GPU, or RAM in the background (e.g., Chrome tabs, Windows Update).

Power Supply Issues (Insufficient or Unstable Power)

This is an often overlooked cause. If your PSU cannot handle sudden power spikes (transients) from a modern GPU, your system may throttle or crash.

Insufficient RAM or Single-Channel Memory

Your FPS may drop if your system is running out of RAM or if it is running at low speed.

Modern games stream assets constantly. If you install games on a slow HDD, you will notice stuttering when moving to new areas.

Even the best hardware will throttle if it's choked by dust. Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks.

Conclusion: Stabilize Your Framerates with darkFlash

. While software tweaks can help, the ultimate fix is often ensuring your hardware has the environment it needs to perform. Whether you need better airflow, powerful liquid cooling, or a reliable power supply, 

darkFlash has the gear to keep your frames high and your temps low.





Few things are more frustrating than watching your FPS suddenly dip while you are in the middle of a game. Your system seems fine, temps look normal, but the frame rate just drops out of nowhere. These unexpected FPS drops are extremely common, and there are several real reasons behind them.



High Temperatures Causing Thermal Throttling

The number-one cause of sudden FPS drops is excessive heat. When your CPU or GPU gets too hot, it automatically reduces its clock speed to protect itself, leading to instant performance loss.



Typical throttle temperatures





CPU: around 90°C and above



GPU: 80–90°C depending on the model

Fixes





Improve Case Airflow: If your case feels like an oven, your components can't breathe. Consider upgrading to a high-airflow case like the darkFlash DY460 which features louvered side panels designed to maximize cold air intake.



(darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case, featuring louver side panel on PSU Chamber)







Upgrade Your Cooler: Stock coolers often struggle with modern gaming loads. Switching to a darkFlash AIO Liquid Cooler (like the DE360/240 or DO360/240 Liquid Cooler) can drop temps significantly and keep boost clocks stable.



(darkFlash DE360 Liquid CPU Cooler)







Check Your Fans: Ensure you have positive or neutral air pressure. Adding high-performance darkFlash RGB fans not only looks great but ensures heat is actively pushed out of the chassis.



(darkFlash INF34 Cooling Fan, pre-installed in DY460 PC Case)



VRAM (Graphics Memory) Is Full

Running out of VRAM can cause instant FPS drops. When VRAM is full, the GPU is forced to offload data to system RAM, which is much slower.



Fixes





Lower texture quality in game settings.



Turn off demanding effects like Ray Tracing if your card struggles.



Pro Tip: A well-cooled GPU boosts higher and handles loads better. Ensure your case has bottom or front fans directing air straight to the GPU.





Background Programs Eating Resources

Sometimes your game is not the problem. Windows or other apps may be taking CPU, GPU, or RAM in the background (e.g., Chrome tabs, Windows Update).



Fixes





Use "Exclusive Fullscreen" mode in games.



Turn on Windows Game Mode.



Check Task Manager for sudden spikes.



(Call of Duty: Black Ops 7 Trailer via Xbox YouTube Channel. Best experienced in fullscreen)



Power Supply Issues (Insufficient or Unstable Power)

This is an often overlooked cause. If your PSU cannot handle sudden power spikes (transients) from a modern GPU, your system may throttle or crash.



Symptoms





Sharp FPS drops during explosions or intense scenes.



GPU usage fluctuating wildly.

Fixes





Ensure Stability: Never skimp on your power supply unit. A high-quality PSU provides stable voltage even during load spikes.



Upgrade Capacity: If you are running a high-end card (like an RTX 5080) on an old 600W unit, it's time to upgrade to a darkFlash High-Wattage PSU to ensure your system gets the clean power it needs.



(darkFlash PMT Power Supply, Cybenetics platinum certified)



Insufficient RAM or Single-Channel Memory

Your FPS may drop if your system is running out of RAM or if it is running at low speed.



Fixes





Enable XMP / EXPO in BIOS.



Ensure you are using dual-channel configurations (two sticks are better than one).





Slow Storage Causing Loading Stalls

Modern games stream assets constantly. If you install games on a slow HDD, you will notice stuttering when moving to new areas.



Fixes





Always install AAA games on an NVMe SSD.





Dust Buildup & Maintenance

Even the best hardware will throttle if it's choked by dust. Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks.



Fixes





Regular Cleaning: Clean your PC every 3-6 months.



Use Dust Filters: This is why most of darkFlash cases come equipped with easy-to-remove dust filters. They catch the dust before it hits your components, making cleaning as easy as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Conclusion: Stabilize Your Framerates with darkFlash

Most sudden FPS drops are caused by Heat or Power. While software tweaks can help, the ultimate fix is often ensuring your hardware has the environment it needs to perform. Whether you need better airflow, powerful liquid cooling, or a reliable power supply, darkFlash has the gear to keep your frames high and your temps low.





Sudden FPS drops are common and frustrating, here are the real reasons behind them and how to fix them.

Why Does My FPS Drop Suddenly in Games? Causes and How to Fix It

Product News                                                    

 launched, it quickly gained attention for its panoramic visibility and bold geometric design. Along the way, we also received valuable feedback from users who loved the look but wanted a version with a more streamlined layout and airflow-focused adjustments.

 — not an upgrade, not a downgrade, but 

 that offers the same design DNA with a different approach to space, cooling, and usability.

Both models feature a panoramic three-glass structure that opens the system from nearly every angle.

Each model carries the signature DY Series faceted panel design, creating clean reflections and sharp visual lines.

Both cases fully support back-connect motherboards for a cleaner interior and simplified cable routing.

The DY460 and DY470 share the same visual identity and panoramic presentation, but they serve different building styles. Two designs, one philosophy, giving builders the freedom to choose the version that fits their vision.

Ideal for players who want a cleaner airflow path, a more compact footprint, and a layout designed around everyday usability and straightforward cable management.

Ideal for users who prefer broader internal space, more flexibility for fans and radiators, and a full showcase-style build with wide panoramic visibility.





When the DY470 launched, it quickly gained attention for its panoramic visibility and bold geometric design. Along the way, we also received valuable feedback from users who loved the look but wanted a version with a more streamlined layout and airflow-focused adjustments.

This led to the creation of the DY460 — not an upgrade, not a downgrade, but a parallel option that offers the same design DNA with a different approach to space, cooling, and usability.



What They Share

Three-Sided Glass, 330° Visibility

Both models feature a panoramic three-glass structure that opens the system from nearly every angle.







Diamond-Cut Aesthetic

Each model carries the signature DY Series faceted panel design, creating clean reflections and sharp visual lines.







Back-Connector Motherboard Support

Both cases fully support back-connect motherboards for a cleaner interior and simplified cable routing.







Where They Differ

Size and Footprint





DY460: 452 × 238 × 505 mm, more compact for typical desk setups.



DY470: 473 × 298 × 497 mm, wider internal space for fans, radiators, and large GPUs.





Airflow and PSU Chamber





DY460: louvered PSU chamber panel to enhance bottom-area ventilation.



DY470: solid chamber design for a cleaner showcase look.



(DY460, Louvered side vents)



Internal Layout





DY460: top-and-bottom chamber layout for straightforward cable management.



DY470: left-and-right dual-chamber design, offering a wider main compartment for high-end builds.



(DY460, top-and-bottom chamber)



I/O Placement





DY460: Front-mounted I/O for easy access on a desktop.



DY470: Side-mounted I/O, ideal for larger showcase-style setups.



(DY460, Front-mounted I/O)



Conclusion

The DY460 and DY470 share the same visual identity and panoramic presentation, but they serve different building styles. Two designs, one philosophy, giving builders the freedom to choose the version that fits their vision.







DY460

Ideal for players who want a cleaner airflow path, a more compact footprint, and a layout designed around everyday usability and straightforward cable management.







DY470

Ideal for users who prefer broader internal space, more flexibility for fans and radiators, and a full showcase-style build with wide panoramic visibility.





The DY460 and DY470 share the same design DNA, but each offers a different approach to space, airflow, and building style.

DY460 vs. DY470: Two Choices, One Shared Vision

After the success of DY470, darkFlash presents a new interpretation of compact PC design.

 carries the same signature style while reimagining the structure for smarter airflow, space efficiency, and modern aesthetics. It is made for gamers who seek balance between performance and elegance.

 continues the design spirit of DY470, preserving the three-sided panoramic glass concept that has become a favorite among builders. 

, the case still offers full-size compatibility, supporting ATX motherboards, high-end GPUs, and advanced cooling setups.

 introduces a redesigned cooling structure airflow. Louvered side vents work with a raised base to draw in fresh air from multiple directions, cooling the PSU and storage area with greater efficiency.

This layout prevents heat buildup during long gaming sessions and maintains consistent thermal stability throughout the system.

 adopts the same three-sided tempered glass structure that provides a 330-degree panoramic showcase. 

It expands the seaview concept with an added top glass panel, allowing builders to appreciate their components and lighting from every angle.

Each diamond-cut edge reflects light from different angles, creating elegant visual depth and a sense of precision. 

This refined design gives the case a modern architectural feel that stands out from conventional flat panels.

 represents the next chapter of darkFlash design philosophy, proving that compact builds can still deliver style, function, and performance. From its diamond-cut form to its panoramic glass showcase, every detail reflects precision and intent.



darkFlash DY460 ATX PC Case



After the success of DY470, darkFlash presents a new interpretation of compact PC design.

The DY460 carries the same signature style while reimagining the structure for smarter airflow, space efficiency, and modern aesthetics. It is made for gamers who seek balance between performance and elegance.





Compact Form, Same Signature DNA





DY460 continues the design spirit of DY470, preserving the three-sided panoramic glass concept that has become a favorite among builders. 

While the overall footprint is reduced by 23%, the case still offers full-size compatibility, supporting ATX motherboards, high-end GPUs, and advanced cooling setups.



Not an upgrade. A rethink.



Optimized Airflow at the Base





DY460 introduces a redesigned cooling structure airflow. Louvered side vents work with a raised base to draw in fresh air from multiple directions, cooling the PSU and storage area with greater efficiency.

This layout prevents heat buildup during long gaming sessions and maintains consistent thermal stability throughout the system.



Functional ventilation meets clean design, where every element enhances both form and performance.



Three-Sided Glass View





DY460 adopts the same three-sided tempered glass structure that provides a 330-degree panoramic showcase. 

It expands the seaview concept with an added top glass panel, allowing builders to appreciate their components and lighting from every angle.




The result is a clear and immersive display that highlights every detail of the build.



Diamond-Cut Design





Sharp angular panels shape the DY460’s distinctive look. 

Each diamond-cut edge reflects light from different angles, creating elegant visual depth and a sense of precision. 

This refined design gives the case a modern architectural feel that stands out from conventional flat panels.



Minimalist geometry, maximum impact.



DY460 vs DY470: Find Your Fit





Final Thoughts





The DY460 represents the next chapter of darkFlash design philosophy, proving that compact builds can still deliver style, function, and performance. From its diamond-cut form to its panoramic glass showcase, every detail reflects precision and intent.

Meet the darkFlash DY460: smarter space, better cooling, and more affordable.

DY460 ATX PC Case - A New Choice in Design

Tech News                                                       

Just months after the noticeable surge in DDR4 prices, the PC industry is facing another wave — this time with DDR5. Once expected to stabilize as production matured, DDR5 memory is now climbing sharply in cost. 

From high-end desktop kits to mainstream 16 GB modules, prices have risen as much as 

 in certain regions. What’s driving this new round of increases — and how might it affect PC builders, system integrators, and component brands?

, DRAM spot prices surged nearly 10% in a single week this October as buyers rushed to secure inventory ahead of further hikes. DDR5 modules — which once benefited from falling prices as adoption spread — are now trending upward in both spot and contract markets.

 reports that community data shows retail DDR5 kits from brands like Corsair, G.Skill, and Kingston rising significantly in Europe and Asia. In some regions, the price per gigabyte has nearly doubled compared to mid-year 2024 levels.

For consumers, this means one clear thing: upgrading or building a DDR5-based system is getting more expensive again.

The reasons behind the DDR5 price rise are complex, but a few major factors stand out:

Global AI infrastructure build-outs are consuming vast amounts of memory. Data centers deploying GPUs like NVIDIA’s H100 and H200 rely on high-bandwidth DRAM (HBM) and advanced DDR5 chips, directly competing with consumer-grade production capacity.

 recently noted, “AI data centers are swallowing the world’s memory supply.” This diversion of wafer allocation from PC DRAM to HBM has reduced output for DDR5 modules used in consumer and enterprise PCs.

2. Manufacturers Prioritizing High-Margin Products

Major DRAM suppliers — Samsung, SK Hynix, and Micron — have strategically shifted focus toward more profitable segments like HBM3E and LPDDR5X. Commodity DDR5 modules yield lower profit per wafer, so manufacturers are scaling back consumer DRAM lines to optimize margins.

When rumors of supply shortages surface, memory module assemblers and distributors often buy ahead to lock in pricing. This behavior, while rational, amplifies short-term demand and constrains supply in the spot market, leading to sudden price spikes — the same pattern we saw during DDR4’s recent rebound.

4. Supply Chain Transition and Yield Issues

As fabs migrate to 1β and 1α nm nodes for next-gen DRAM production, yields can initially drop. That limits supply while costs remain high. Combined with continued geopolitical uncertainties and logistics challenges, memory output simply isn’t keeping up with demand.

For PC builders and DIY enthusiasts, higher DDR5 prices increase total build cost — especially in mid-range and performance segments.

A memory kit that cost $80–90 earlier this year may now exceed $120–130. While that might seem minor for premium builds, it directly affects the 

, driven by AI hardware demand and restrained production volumes. TrendForce predicts overall DRAM prices could rise 

The silver lining is that DDR5 remains in high demand thanks to platform adoption (Intel 700-series, AMD AM5). As more users transition, economies of scale could eventually bring stability — but not before this current shortage cycle plays out.

DDR5’s price surge highlights the new reality of a memory market dominated by AI and data-center demand. As production capacity shifts toward high-bandwidth applications, consumer DRAM will continue to feel the squeeze. For PC enthusiasts and brands alike, this isn’t just a supply-chain story — it’s a reminder that even as technology evolves, the economics of silicon remain as volatile as ever.





Just months after the noticeable surge in DDR4 prices, the PC industry is facing another wave — this time with DDR5. Once expected to stabilize as production matured, DDR5 memory is now climbing sharply in cost. 

From high-end desktop kits to mainstream 16 GB modules, prices have risen as much as 30–50% in certain regions. What’s driving this new round of increases — and how might it affect PC builders, system integrators, and component brands?



The Current Market Situation





(image credit :TrendForce)



According to TrendForce, DRAM spot prices surged nearly 10% in a single week this October as buyers rushed to secure inventory ahead of further hikes. DDR5 modules — which once benefited from falling prices as adoption spread — are now trending upward in both spot and contract markets.



Notebookcheck reports that community data shows retail DDR5 kits from brands like Corsair, G.Skill, and Kingston rising significantly in Europe and Asia. In some regions, the price per gigabyte has nearly doubled compared to mid-year 2024 levels.

For consumers, this means one clear thing: upgrading or building a DDR5-based system is getting more expensive again.



What’s Causing the Surge





The reasons behind the DDR5 price rise are complex, but a few major factors stand out:



1. AI and Data Center Demand

Global AI infrastructure build-outs are consuming vast amounts of memory. Data centers deploying GPUs like NVIDIA’s H100 and H200 rely on high-bandwidth DRAM (HBM) and advanced DDR5 chips, directly competing with consumer-grade production capacity.

As Tom’s Hardware recently noted, “AI data centers are swallowing the world’s memory supply.” This diversion of wafer allocation from PC DRAM to HBM has reduced output for DDR5 modules used in consumer and enterprise PCs.



2. Manufacturers Prioritizing High-Margin Products

Major DRAM suppliers — Samsung, SK Hynix, and Micron — have strategically shifted focus toward more profitable segments like HBM3E and LPDDR5X. Commodity DDR5 modules yield lower profit per wafer, so manufacturers are scaling back consumer DRAM lines to optimize margins.



3. Panic Buying and Inventory Hedging

When rumors of supply shortages surface, memory module assemblers and distributors often buy ahead to lock in pricing. This behavior, while rational, amplifies short-term demand and constrains supply in the spot market, leading to sudden price spikes — the same pattern we saw during DDR4’s recent rebound.



4. Supply Chain Transition and Yield Issues

As fabs migrate to 1β and 1α nm nodes for next-gen DRAM production, yields can initially drop. That limits supply while costs remain high. Combined with continued geopolitical uncertainties and logistics challenges, memory output simply isn’t keeping up with demand.



Impact on PC Builders



(Image Credit: idealo)



For PC builders and DIY enthusiasts, higher DDR5 prices increase total build cost — especially in mid-range and performance segments.

A memory kit that cost $80–90 earlier this year may now exceed $120–130. While that might seem minor for premium builds, it directly affects the bill of materials (BOM) for integrators and system assemblers.



Market Outlook





Analysts expect the DRAM price uptrend to continue into early 2026, driven by AI hardware demand and restrained production volumes. TrendForce predicts overall DRAM prices could rise 10–20% quarter-over-quarter, depending on market response.

The silver lining is that DDR5 remains in high demand thanks to platform adoption (Intel 700-series, AMD AM5). As more users transition, economies of scale could eventually bring stability — but not before this current shortage cycle plays out.



What Builders and Buyers Should Do





Secure modules early: If you’re planning new PC builds or system batches, lock in DDR5 inventory before the next quarter’s pricing revision.



Offer flexible configurations: For OEMs or boutique builders, consider offering both DDR4 and DDR5 SKUs where platform compatibility allows.



Monitor supplier communication: Stay updated with module vendors on lead times and allocation changes.



Communicate value: Even as costs rise, focus marketing on overall system performance, stability, and forward-compatibility, not just raw specs.



Conclusion

DDR5’s price surge highlights the new reality of a memory market dominated by AI and data-center demand. As production capacity shifts toward high-bandwidth applications, consumer DRAM will continue to feel the squeeze. For PC enthusiasts and brands alike, this isn’t just a supply-chain story — it’s a reminder that even as technology evolves, the economics of silicon remain as volatile as ever.

DDR5 memory prices are climbing sharply in 2025 as AI demand, supply reallocation, and panic buying tighten the DRAM market. Here’s why it’s happening and what it means for PC builders.

DDR5 Memory Prices Are Rising — Here's Why It's Happening Again

How-to Guides                                                   

The “aquarium-style” PC case trend remains strong, with dual-side panoramic tempered glass panels offering a crystal-clear, high-end aesthetic. However, no matter how stunning the case design is, fingerprints, dust, or even small scratches can instantly dull its premium look.

To keep your case spotless and shining like new, regular and proper cleaning is the key. In this guide, we’ll show you simple yet effective ways to clean and maintain your tempered glass panels — along with a few tricks to prevent scratches — so your build always looks flawless.

 side panels, though some models still use 

Since cleaning may involve removing panels or using cleaning solutions, always 

turn off your PC and disconnect the power cable

 to ensure safety and prevent component damage.

Use a clean microfiber cloth to gently wipe away surface dust.

Avoid using a damp cloth directly — trapped dust can scratch the glass surface.

Step 2｜Apply Cleaner to the Cloth (Not the Glass)

Spray the neutral cleaner onto the cloth instead of directly onto the glass to prevent streaks or residue from forming on the panel.

, following a single direction. Avoid back-and-forth rubbing, which can cause micro-scratches.

For tight corners or edges that collect dust, use a cotton swab or a small piece of cloth for spot cleaning.

Preventing Scratches and Routine Maintenance

 to prevent dust buildup that becomes harder to remove over time.

Avoid removing the glass panel unless necessary. Frequent handling increases the risk of scratches or smudges.

Keep it upright to reduce contact and the chance of scratches.

Proper glass maintenance not only keeps your PC case looking stunning but also enhances its overall professional appearance. By cleaning regularly and wiping correctly, you can prevent dust and scratches from stealing the spotlight from your carefully built masterpiece.





The “aquarium-style” PC case trend remains strong, with dual-side panoramic tempered glass panels offering a crystal-clear, high-end aesthetic. However, no matter how stunning the case design is, fingerprints, dust, or even small scratches can instantly dull its premium look.



To keep your case spotless and shining like new, regular and proper cleaning is the key. In this guide, we’ll show you simple yet effective ways to clean and maintain your tempered glass panels — along with a few tricks to prevent scratches — so your build always looks flawless.



Preparation Before Cleaning





Step 1｜Identify the Material

Most modern PC cases feature tempered glass side panels, though some models still use acrylic.





Tempered Glass: Scratch-resistant, heavier, and will not discolor over time.



Acrylic: Lightweight and low-cost, but more prone to scratching.



Step 2｜Power Down and Unplug

Since cleaning may involve removing panels or using cleaning solutions, always turn off your PC and disconnect the power cable to ensure safety and prevent component damage.



Step 3｜Gather Cleaning Tools

You’ll need:





A microfiber cloth, lens cloth, or screen-cleaning cloth



Neutral detergent (optional) and clean water



A dust blower or anti-static brush



How to Clean Your Glass Panel Properly





Step 1｜Remove Dust with a Dry Cloth

Use a clean microfiber cloth to gently wipe away surface dust.
Avoid using a damp cloth directly — trapped dust can scratch the glass surface.



Step 2｜Apply Cleaner to the Cloth (Not the Glass)

Spray the neutral cleaner onto the cloth instead of directly onto the glass to prevent streaks or residue from forming on the panel.



Step 3｜Wipe in One Direction

Gently wipe from top to bottom or left to right, following a single direction. Avoid back-and-forth rubbing, which can cause micro-scratches.



Step 4｜Detail the Corners

For tight corners or edges that collect dust, use a cotton swab or a small piece of cloth for spot cleaning.



Tip: Never use tissue or paper towels, they can scratch the surface or leave lint behind.



Preventing Scratches and Routine Maintenance





Clean Regularly

Wipe down your case every 3 to 6 months to prevent dust buildup that becomes harder to remove over time.



Minimize Panel Removal

Avoid removing the glass panel unless necessary. Frequent handling increases the risk of scratches or smudges.



Handle Panels Carefully

When removing the glass panel, avoid placing it face-down on any surface.
Keep it upright to reduce contact and the chance of scratches.







Conclusion

Proper glass maintenance not only keeps your PC case looking stunning but also enhances its overall professional appearance. By cleaning regularly and wiping correctly, you can prevent dust and scratches from stealing the spotlight from your carefully built masterpiece.

Tempered glass proper maintenance and scratch prevention tips.

How to Clean Tempered Glass Side Panels?

Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It’s a Showcase

When it comes to building a PC, the case is no longer just a shell to hold your components. It’s the stage where 

 come alive. With the darkFlash Floatron F1, we’ve reimagined what a PC case can be: a stage for your creativity, a platform for your passion, and a centerpiece for your lifestyle.

The Floatron F1 is designed for those who love to show off their builds in style:

Your PC doesn’t just sit under your desk anymore — it becomes a part of your room’s personality.

In the world of speed, air isn’t resistance — it’s power.

That’s why the Floatron F1 is engineered with cooling performance at its core:

This means you can build with confidence, knowing your case is ready for high-performance components.

The Floatron F1 goes beyond function — it’s a showroom for your ideas:

Whether you’re a gamer, a creator, or just someone who values aesthetics, this case gives you the space to express yourself.

Designed for a New Generation of Builders

Unlike traditional cases, the Floatron F1 is built for people who see their PC as part of their lifestyle:

It delivers both style and performance without any compromise.

The darkFlash Floatron F1 isn’t just another PC case — it’s where performance meets design. With its panoramic view, floating glass chamber, and proven cooling power, it transforms your build into a personal exhibition.

If you’ve been looking for a case that reflects your taste, boosts your performance, and makes your setup stand out, the Floatron F1 is here to lead the way.

For more information about Floatron F1 PC Case, 





Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It’s a Showcase

When it comes to building a PC, the case is no longer just a shell to hold your components. It’s the stage where performance and creativity come alive. With the darkFlash Floatron F1, we’ve reimagined what a PC case can be: a stage for your creativity, a platform for your passion, and a centerpiece for your lifestyle.



A Design That Stands Out







The Floatron F1 is designed for those who love to show off their builds in style:





270° Panoramic Glass: Enjoy an uninterrupted view of your system with a pillar-free, wide-angle design.



Floating Glass Chamber: The elevated glass housing creates a unique aesthetic that feels futuristic and elegant.



Tool-Free Side Panels: Both panels feature a quick-release mechanism,  enhances convenience access and upgrades.

Your PC doesn’t just sit under your desk anymore — it becomes a part of your room’s personality.



Built for Cooling and Performance

In the world of speed, air isn’t resistance — it’s power.







That’s why the Floatron F1 is engineered with cooling performance at its core:





Optimized Airflow Path with side and rear mesh panels for maximum heat dissipation.



Proven Cooling Gains: In tests, the F1 lowered GPU temperatures by 5–7°C, giving you a smoother, more stable gaming or creative experience.



Hardware Support:

-GPUs up to 350mm

-CPU coolers up to 200mm

-Radiators up to 360mm

-Power supplies up to 200mm

This means you can build with confidence, knowing your case is ready for high-performance components.



A Space for Creativity







The Floatron F1 goes beyond function — it’s a showroom for your ideas:





Bottom Display Area: Show off your collectibles, figures, or even DIY lighting setups.



Personalized Setup: Perfect for adding a second screen, controller dock, or RGB panel.



Convenient I/O: Side-mounted Type-C and dual USB 3.0 ports keep your connections within easy reach.



Easy Maintenance: Magnetic dust filters make cleaning quick and hassle-free.

Whether you’re a gamer, a creator, or just someone who values aesthetics, this case gives you the space to express yourself.



Designed for a New Generation of Builders







Unlike traditional cases, the Floatron F1 is built for people who see their PC as part of their lifestyle:





Gamers who want immersive builds with personality.



Creators who value design, lighting, and a showcase-worthy desk setup.



Collectors who love blending PC builds with figures, models, or custom art.

It delivers both style and performance without any compromise.



A Showcase, Not Just a Case

The darkFlash Floatron F1 isn’t just another PC case — it’s where performance meets design. With its panoramic view, floating glass chamber, and proven cooling power, it transforms your build into a personal exhibition.



If you’ve been looking for a case that reflects your taste, boosts your performance, and makes your setup stand out, the Floatron F1 is here to lead the way.



Float the Flow. Rule the Road.



For more information about Floatron F1 PC Case, click here.

The darkFlash Floatron F1 is more than a PC case — it’s a showcase. With its 270° panoramic glass, floating base design, and optimized airflow system that lowers GPU temps by up to 7°C, the F1 blends performance with creativity. Perfect for gamers, creators, and collectors, it transforms your setup into a personal exhibition while keeping high-end hardware cool and stable.

Floatron F1 – More Than a PC Case, It's a Showcase

When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 

 you should always check before making a decision.

By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.





When it comes to choosing a PC case, expansion support is one of the most important factors to consider. Since the case is the foundation that houses all other components, its compatibility and upgrade potential will directly impact future builds. 



In this guide, we’ll walk you through the 9 essential specs you should always check before making a decision.



1. Supported Motherboard Sizes





Common form factors include E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX.



If you plan to upgrade in the future, it’s safer to choose a case that supports at least ATX motherboards.







2. Maximum GPU Length





High-end triple-fan GPUs usually range from 310 mm to 360 mm, while dual-fan GPUs are closer to 260 mm.



Always confirm your GPU length and check if HDD cages or front fans might block installation.







3. CPU Cooler Height Clearance





For air coolers, make sure the case supports the required height (commonly 155–170 mm).



With smaller cases, cooler clearance becomes even more critical.





(darkFlash Storm Z4 Pro Mist Tower CPU Cooler, Height: 155 mm)



4. Liquid Cooling Support





Check if the case supports 240 mm, 280 mm, or 360 mm radiators, and where they can be mounted (top, front, or side).



Also consider radiator thickness—some may interfere with RAM clearance.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler, Radiator: 360 mm)



5. Fan Support (Quantity & Size)





Confirm whether the case supports 120 mm and/or 140 mm fans, and the maximum number of fans you can install.



Check if fans are included by default, and whether a fan hub or controller is supported.





(darkFlash DY470 ATX PC Case)



6. Storage Expansion





Look for the number of drive bays available for 3.5" HDDs and 2.5" SSDs.



If you plan on adding more hard drives later, make sure the case has enough slots.







7. PCIe Expansion Slots





Cases with too few slots may prevent you from installing wider GPUs or may restrict airflow.



If you plan on using a vertical GPU mount, check whether the case includes the bracket and PCIe riser support.







8. Front I/O Ports





Most cases include power/reset buttons, audio jacks, and USB ports.



If you frequently use external devices, choose a case with USB 3.0 or Type-C for faster transfers.







9. PSU Shroud Space





Standard PSUs are typically 160 mm to 220 mm long.



Confirm that your case has enough space for the PSU, plus room for cable management.





(darkFlash PMT Series White Edition PSU)



By checking these 9 specs before you buy, you’ll ensure your case not only fits your current build but also provides flexibility for future upgrades.

Check these 9 key specs to make sure your build is future-proof.

9 Key Expansion Specs You Must Check Before Buying a PC Case

When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the 

. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.

The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector

The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation





When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the motherboard’s front panel header. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.







PWR LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matters.



The cable will be labeled PLED+ and PLED- or similar.



Align PLED+ with the motherboard’s PWR_LED+ pin, and PLED- with PWR_LED-.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector



PWR_SW (Power Switch)

Function:
The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Simply connect the two-pin PWR SW cable to the PWR_SW pins.



RESET (Reset Switch)

Function:
The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Connect the RESET SW cable to the RESET pins.



HDD LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matter.



The connector is labeled HDD LED+ and HDD LED-.



Align the positive wire (often colored) with HDD_LED+, and the negative (often black or white) with HDD_LED-.



SPEAKER

Function:
The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

Connection:





This connector is usually a 4-pin block from the case speaker.



Match it with the SPEAKER pins on the header.



How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation











Most motherboards print + and - signs next to the LED pins.



Positive wires are usually labeled with a small arrow one the rear side if the connector.



The motherboard manual will have a detailed pinout diagram — always check it if unsure.



Final Tips





Handle with care — These pins are delicate; use minimal force when connecting.



Double-check before powering on — Incorrect polarity for LEDs won’t damage anything but will prevent lights from working.



Consult your motherboard manual for the exact pin layout.

Explaining each of these front panel header pins, what they do, and how to connect them correctly

Understanding Motherboard Front Panel Header Pins and How to Connect Them

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

Passionnés de jeux vidéo et de montage informatique, nous, chez darkFlash, sommes fiers de concevoir des produits impressionnants et exceptionnels grâce à des équipements haut de gamme. Pour cela, nous assemblons et testons nous-mêmes boîtiers PC, systèmes de refroidissement pour processeur, ventilateurs et même chaises et tables gaming.

Notre objectif est de créer des produits qui transforment l'expérience de chaque utilisateur.

flash sombre

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.